yo,
Most go w/ a Saginaw pump esp w/those large tires; such as in this outstanding article
Saginaw Pump Swap in an 85
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at
http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Projects/Saginaw_Swap/Saginaw_Swap.html
others use the AGR or BroncoAir pumps
Swap (AGR) in a 78
Source: by OX1 (OX, Jim, James O, Beater, Bronco Ranger XLT, GREEN_DILYSI) at
http://ford.off-road.com/ford/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=198388
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Swap (Broncoair.com) in a 93
Source: by Dustin J (SOLD, rokhrse, sukngas) at http://members.***.net/azfourwheeling/sagswap.html
D wrires; "...The first task you need to do is get a bracket for the sag pump since they mount different than the stock crap pump. I hit the local junk yard to find a pump and bracket, better just pull the pump too since your going to need a core. You can nab a bracket out of any 87-96 Ford Econoline van with a 5.0 or 5.8 engine. I think I payed somewhere around 40bucks for the whole deal which included the bracket, pump, and pulley. You can also get the bracket new from ford(PN F4UZ3C511A) for about 60bucks. Now that you have your new bracket all cleaned up and ready to install go down and pick up a new saginaw pump or use the junk yard pump, also pick up a high pressure line for the same E-series van since your stock one isnt going to work due to the differnce in fittings on the sag pump. Also your going to need some longer bolts and spacers for the york bracket. I used 6" long 10mm bolts and a 1.5" spacer for the bracket, this raises it just enough to get the cap off. The hardest part of this swap is getting the broncoair pulley to work with the sag pump since the shaft size is differnt. Any machine shop should be able to drill out the pulley for you just take the stock pulley from the sag pump to compare too, it has to be within .002" since its a pressed fit onto the pump. Also rent yourself a pulley remover and beef up at the gym before you go to take the pulley off. .." read more in the Link
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TIPS by ZACH
what to get your pump from
look for ford vans. 1/2ton, 3/4 or 1 tons, its all the same.
theres is one funky year to watch out for though!
the 87 vans and broncos use a much different AC compresser mount, that i cannot see easily adapated to fit a 88 or newer truck.....
88 or later is the optimum year to look for, i have seen i think an 86 serpentine bel tthat i have pulled one from that worked the same.
-second, the tools you need for the pump removal
hammer- great for shock treatment of stuck bolts
pipe- great for extra leverage, also good for holding up the hood.
Vise grips- great for clamping on siezed HP hose fittings and then hitting the end of vice grip with the hammer to break it loose. also removes any other bolts/ washer or thing in the way to the pump
so again, in recall watch out for 1987 van pumps, as the AC bracket is WAY different, and watch out for the HP line on some vans(dont know the year) on the steering box that is a 11/16s fitting
info on the pumps in general
-in general all the saginaw pumps are the same
-it does use a different pulley than your old pump, so be aware of that you cannot just switch the two
-some newer saginaws are metric bolts, so be aware if you try bolting them using your old hardware into your saginaw bracket(this is when you where to replace a bad van saginaw pump with a junkyard pump of another brand) newer chevys also use a funky shapped resivoir and are metric
-when replacing just a bad pump t ry to buy it with the resivoir if you can. brand new with resivoir is about $105. without the resiboir it is $45 or so, but believe me, it is not worth it! i tried two different rebuilt pumps, and i could not make either fit into the resivoir on the chevy i replaced the saginaw on this week.
ford install issues.
Yes, you need to run a longer serpentine belt! you "Can" make it fit qith a stock belt, but this is a tight fit and applying lots of extra side load ot your other accesories bearings(ALT, Water pump, Saginaw pump)
the install isntructions
-Remove your airbox hoses(makes it easier)
-remove the serpetine belt
-remove your low pressure line from the steering box, and let the old fluid drain out.
-while it is draining, disconnect the AC electrical connection that is for the magnetic clutch
-unbolt he 4 ac bolts
-"Flop" the AC compresser out of the way keeping the hoses connected
-unscrew the HP(high pressure) line at the steering box and let it drain out
-remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. 302's i think use a 4th stud
-pull out the whole bracket and pump
-bolt the saginaw pump/bracket to the block
-connect your HP and LP hoses to the connect spot on the block. yuou use the van HP hose and fitting and put it into th ebronco steering box. for ht elow pressure how, just slide the rubber hose off the old ford pump, and clamp it down on the return line coing out of the saginaw pump. then put the hose back into the steering box. techinallyt you didnt have to remove the LP hose from the steering box, but i find it easier
-now its time to dr4ill out the AC compresser
-after its drilled, bolt it to the bracket
-plug in the AC electrical connection
-install the new aprox 1-1/5" longer serpentine belt(on the pre 93's, zilla has the belt number for the later ones, i will find it)
-fill your PS pump with fluid
-make shure everything is put on the truck and tightened(i leave the Airbox hoses off at this time)
start it up for about 10 seconds, then shut the truck off. go check/ refill the PS pump, also check to make shure there was no sign of major leakage
- start it again, and cycle the steering. i do this with the truck weight on it, but mine is hydro assist, and has lots of steering power. i recomend you have it on jackstands, or the draglink disconected, or roll the truck forewards oem while doing it.
- expect the pump to whine an dhowl some at you when you do this. if it gets real loud then your low on fluid.
- after cycling the steering, check/refill the pump with fluid. this is normal it goes down till all the air is bleed from th system.
-now let it run and check for any small laks from the pump, of any of the fittings/hose connections.
-put it all toghether, give it a drive or two around the block, and double check the steering fluid level again.
done, your steering swap is done.
expect about an hour to an hour and half to do the swap on your bronco if you are pretty mechnically inclined. adjust down or up of there based on your ability.
Nothing is hard about this, just takes a little time, and geting PS fluid all on your arms.
And if you already dont know, i sell used pumps with the bracket, hose, and pulley for $55 plus shipping
PM me if you need one. lots of people have bought from me, so far no complaints about anything.
Zach
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Swap in an 85
Source: by Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/6130/32168
Many More SAGINAW LINKs in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=343