Wiring problem...Help

[Jim Sessions]

I am restoring a 1966 roadster and the dash and wiring was taken apart when I received the truck. I have since done a frame off restoration. The wiring harness was in real good condition so I decieded to clean it up and reuse it. I just put a new battery in the truck to start up the rebuilt 170 last night for the first time and the ground wire from the alternator wiring harness got hot and a large black 10-12 guage wire that runs from the left side of the truck (if you were sitting in the rtuck) fire wall around the front of the truck to the positive side of the silenoid also got real hot. When I went to hook up the new battery sparks came from the positive battery terminal also. The large black wire that runs from the fire wall is hooked into the main wiring harness behind the dash. Any help would be appreciated. Call or email me at 928-345-1454 or [email protected].

Thanks

Jim

 

[76Explorer]

I am restoring a 1966 roadster and the dash and wiring was taken apart when I received the truck. I have since done a frame off restoration. The wiring harness was in real good condition so I decieded to clean it up and reuse it. I just put a new battery in the truck to start up the rebuilt 170 last night for the first time and the ground wire from the alternator wiring harness got hot and a large black 10-12 guage wire that runs from the left side of the truck (if you were sitting in the rtuck) fire wall around the front of the truck to the positive side of the silenoid also got real hot. When I went to hook up the new battery sparks came from the positive battery terminal also. The large black wire that runs from the fire wall is hooked into the main wiring harness behind the dash. Any help would be appreciated. Call or email me at 928-345-1454 or [email protected].

Thanks

Jim

From looking at the pics, the yellow wire should go to the silenoid as seen in the earlier pic.

 

[Seabronc]

What ever made you think that the wires that you hooked to ground should be there? Why didn't you hook them up as they were? Does that new large black wire go to the battery (+)? Where is that small black wire going to that use to be free floating?

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[Jim Sessions]

From looking at the pics, the yellow wire should go to the silenoid as seen in the earlier pic.

I originaly had it hooked up that way but it made no difference. A buddy of mine has an original 66 and his yellow wire goes to the ground block as shown in the newer pic. His truck is running mine is not.

What ever made you think that the wires that you hooked to ground should be there? Why didn't you hook them up as they were? Does that new large black wire go to the battery (+)? Where is that small black wire going to that use to be free floating?

>-

I originally had the wires hooked up just like the bofore restoration pic and it made no difference. As for the ground block a buddy of mine has a 66 and his truck has a ground block, you can see from the pic that mine had something there also. The large new black wire goes to the (+) side of the silinoid. The free floating wires are now at the ground block. Any help would be appreciated. I will also post a pic of an original running 66.

Jim

 

[Seabronc]

The large new black wire goes to the (+) side of the silinoid.

Where does the other end go?

Also, I have never seen a colored wire hooked to ground unless someone was using the wrong color when jury rigging something. As far as I know Ford sticks to black and brown as ground, not sure why they use brown, but they do in some cases. You need to find out where the other ends go.

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[Jim Sessions]

Where does the other end go?

Also, I have never seen a colored wire hooked to ground unless someone was using the wrong color when jury rigging something. As far as I know Ford sticks to black and brown as ground, not sure why they use brown, but they do in some cases. You need to find out where the other ends go.

>-

The large balck wire (12 Guage) goes around the front of the truck to the drivers side fire wall, through the fire wall and into the main wiring harness behind the dash right behind the guage cluster. I will probaly have to untap and trace the wire. Do you think that it could be a ground issue???

Jim

 

[Seabronc]

The large balck wire (12 Guage) goes around the front of the truck to the drivers side fire wall, through the fire wall and into the main wiring harness behind the dash right behind the guage cluster. I will probaly have to untap and trace the wire. Do you think that it could be a ground issue???

Jim

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The black wire I ws talking about is the large one on the left solinoid, (It use to be red).

OK, did the truck run with the wires hooked up as they were before you cleaned it up? If so, rehook it up as it was in the first place. Then we can figure out what the mid air splice was all about.

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[Jim Sessions]

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The black wire I ws talking about is the large one on the left solinoid, (It use to be red).

OK, did the truck run with the wires hooked up as they were before you cleaned it up? If so, rehook it up as it was in the first place. Then we can figure out what the mid air splice was all about.

>-

right now the wiring is hooked up like it was in the first picture above before the restoration. The truck did not run when I bought it. All of the red that you see on the large black wires is from the shrink tube after I repaired them when they got hot. I hooked up the battery cable (neg) side first then the pos side and sparks came from the positive side if that makes a difference.

Jim

 

[76Explorer]

right now the wiring is hooked up like it was in the first picture above before the restoration. The truck did not run when I bought it. All of the red that you see on the large black wires is from the shrink tube after I repaired them when they got hot. I hooked up the battery cable (neg) side first then the pos side and sparks came from the positive side if that makes a difference.

Jim

Hope this helps, press F11 at the top of your keyboard after you click on it, and it will zoom in

 

[Seabronc]

Hope this helps

Thanks 76Explorer, a picture :-B is worth a 1000 words and apparently Jim didn't understand my questions as he never gave me the information I was asking for /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

>-

 

[Jim Sessions]

Thanks 76Explorer, a picture :-B is worth a 1000 words and apparently Jim didn't understand my questions as he never gave me the information I was asking for /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

>-

Hey guys,

I just got done working on the truck and thanks to your wiring diagram, my electrical problem is solved. I found two important wires that were jerry rigged causing the problem dealing with the alternator and the alt wiring to the fuse box. Again thanks

Jim /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[76Explorer]

Hey guys,

I just got done working on the truck and thanks to your wiring diagram, my electrical problem is solved. I found two important wires that were jerry rigged causing the problem dealing with the alternator and the alt wiring to the fuse box. Again thanks

Jim /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Always glad to help when I can.

 

[82broncofan]

what was your cure? I am having close to the same issue.... when I go to hook up the battery after replacing the points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and voltage regulator the negative terminal sparks? so I then disconnected everything one at a time and have found that it only happened when I connected the large three prong plug at the passenger side firewall. The plug was corroded so I ended up cutting it of and straight wiring it. now I have narrowed it to one of the large black wires coming through the fire wall (I think it has something to do with the lights). my problem is finding the short? if I have power I get sparks, and sometimes smoke. so how do I figure out where it could be? by the way it happens with all fuses removed.