what in the world is this, and why is it broke?

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muddpuppy

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ok i have had some hesitation on take off if i don't feather her and have read some threads on the problem

so i go out and get into it and find this, i need to replace it either way i'm sure. but what the he77 is it?

is it my problem? maybe :huh:

001.jpg

 
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Broncobill78

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That's the water/coolant temperature sending unit.

Couldn't tell you exactly *why* it broke but it looks to me like part of the threaded ****** is still in the housing which maybe indicates that somewhere along the line someone leaned on it while looking/working on the engine. It cracked & eventually broke. Not a big deal. I don't think it would cause the problem with hesitation but to be honest I'm not for sure how the temp info figures into the fuel injection, might be that the computer doesn't have the temp info so it's keeping it in the cold/warm-up stage and that's causing the problem but I kinda doubt it. For hesitation issues I usually fall back on the same cures for carb'd engines, mainly plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc. Removing & cleaning the throttle body & air bypass valve probably wouldn't be a waste of your time either.

 
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muddpuppy

muddpuppy

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thank you i'll stay strong on the solution and now i now what it is i can replace it thanks again

 

Seabronc

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That is the engine temperature sensor and coul very well be the reason for your problem as the computer modifies the fuel air rtio based on input from it.

Good luck,

:)>-

 

BLADE262US

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That one in particular is very very important to the EEC the one for the guage is mounted in another port in the intake behind the distributor . Definately need to get that fixed :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

Broncobill78

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Yup, sorry, my bad. Fred & Blade are right. I've been working my way thru the pages at Fordfuelinjection.com & the page on the ECT sensor states: "The ECT is third in command in the hierarchy of EFI sensors, this means this sensor is very important when calculating fuel ratios and timing curves". So yeah it could definitely be causing the hesitation if the fuel & timing curves are off. If you're interested in reading the whole ECT sensor page it's here:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

 
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muddpuppy

muddpuppy

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man i am so glad to hear that. i've been hunting this white elephant for too long now.

thank you guys...a lot ! BTW i cut the pic and reposted and it came up sideway, sorry

 
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Chas1989

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I live in Leesburg,VA and drive a Taurus, the Bron
Mine broke a few years ago, looked to difficult to replace so I made my own bypass using some brass fittings. I can't take a picture since the truck is 300 miles from where I live during the week. Basically I bought a new tps and took it to Ace hardware where I found a 3" long brass T fitting that the sensor would ***** into. Next I cut into that black hose that comes off the original fitting into the intake, and spliced the brass T with the sensor between the two ends. plugged it back in and it's worked fine ever since. Seemed a lot easier than trying to remove that fitting and took a lot less time to boot. Doesn't look pretty when the hoods up, but I usually drive around with the hood closed so no one but me knows that it is there.

 
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muddpuppy

muddpuppy

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could this be the cause of fouling plugs and flooding? you see i'm currently unemployed and a fuel pressure tester isn't too easy to come by at the moment, i'm trying to weed this out with as little expense possible, also

would this throw a code? no check engine light and i do have a Equus ford code reader but no help

 
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muddpuppy

muddpuppy

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ok, it's been replaced and she's still the same, no codes and any pressure on the throttle and she starts to gag and sputter.

i read a thread here http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...amp;hl=flooding and i guess i'm buying a FPR

tomorrow. it not the fuel pump, filter, dis. cap, rotor, wires, plugs, map and now the etc sensor is replaced.......so i mean what would you do? fuel pressure regulator sound right to you :blink:

 

BLADE262US

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I dont think fuel pressure regulator maybe but probably not its pretty much wide open dumping to tank at an idle anyway when the vacuum falls of such as a heavy right foot moment that is when it should close diverting all the fuel to the injectors . Heres an idea pop the hood when its dark outside and start it up this will let you see the condition of your wires I had one that spit and sputtered alot and did this and it looked like one of those balls with the lightning bolts in it sparks everywhere except where they were supposed to be going if nothing there check the cap and rotor condition if its right off idle it could be that also check to make sure the EGR valve isnt stuck open that will make it run like crap at low rpm but should have thrown a code for it . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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muddpuppy

muddpuppy

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this is a list of the replaced= fuel filter, dis. cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc sensor. i unplugged the map and it threw a code and will not idle so that's out. it's FLOODING so it's not pump either, this sounds like testing and diagnosing to me. Diagnosis = "to learn, knowledge") is the identification of the nature of anything, either by process of elimination or other analytical methods :blink: i work with what i have, i started from the obvious or most common problems, and work my way up. i have the tools to fix but diagnostics on the other hand, i do lack the tech tools such as gauges and whatnots. i did buy a code reader (10** off CL ) and i'm trying to find the solution AS CHEAP and as quik as possible. i do know it better to spend a dime to save a dollar than spend a dollar to save a dime, but unfortunatly the extra 25** that i get in unemployment doesn't cover hi-tech tools that are required at times, so i seek the advice of fellow enthusiasts (as we all do)

too help find the elusive white elephants that plague and at times seem to have adhere themselves in the crevices of my truck

my name is mudd

 
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miesk5

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yo mudd,

When you used the Equus Code Reader; was the Bronco already warmed up to normal operating temperature?

Because "The engine temperature must be greater than 50

 
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