weird starting problem

[90bronco86]

ok so today i had to tow my buddys chevy avalanche through the trails in 4x4 and the truck over heated a little bit but nothing too bad, so i turned it off to let it cool down for a little bit and when i tried to turn it back on it started idled rough then died and i had to be jumped to get it to start again and even after that i had to play with the throttle for a few seconds to get it to idle. wen it idled fine i was able to pull through the rest of the way fine, then i towed the chevy home over 40 miles without a problem, and when i stopped at the guys house to let my truck cool off it did the same thing, just this time i didnt need a jump i just needed to wait like 10 minnutes. any help would be appreciated.

 

[miesk5]

yo 90bronco86,

Is the tranny shifting as normal?

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

Check this Table by Charlie Probst

 

[Rons beast]

Hey 90,

No good deed goes unpunished..huh?

Sounds like a fuel vapor problem. When you turn off the engine, temps acutally rise for awhile, because there is no coolent being circulated. When you go to restart the fuel is instantly vaporized when entering the unusually hot clyinders. The expansion dissallows the proper air mixture to enter and mix well and the engine is hard to start. Towing is really ******* an engine and especially hard for heat to be dispersed.

next time try letting the engine idle for a few min. before shutting it off.

As M5 suggested , post any codes here.

This could be something that just goes away after the engine has some proper running and heat cycles.

As weird as it sounds, if it is a result of some comp. sensor/ control problem, just clearing the comp may be the answer.

Good Luck

 

[90bronco86]

yo 90bronco86,

Is the tranny shifting as normal?

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

Check this Table by Charlie Probst

View attachment 12215

As far as I could tell the granny was working fine it wasn't slipping or overshifting.

 

[90bronco86]

Hey 90,

No good deed goes unpunished..huh?

Sounds like a fuel vapor problem. When you turn off the engine, temps acutally rise for awhile, because there is no coolent being circulated. When you go to restart the fuel is instantly vaporized when entering the unusually hot clyinders. The expansion dissallows the proper air mixture to enter and mix well and the engine is hard to start. Towing is really ******* an engine and especially hard for heat to be dispersed.

next time try letting the engine idle for a few min. before shutting it off.

As M5 suggested , post any codes here.

This could be something that just goes away after the engine has some proper running and heat cycles.

As weird as it sounds, if it is a result of some comp. sensor/ control problem, just clearing the comp may be the answer.

Good Luck

Your telling me, that was the first time the truck had really been offroading and it did better than the lifted f150 and 250 that were there while towing a big heavy Chevy. Now j was running pure water in the radiator could that be part of the reason she was overheating?

 

[Rons beast]

Hey 90,

YES!!!! get the water out of there. It doesn't cool as well as antif/coolent, and doesn't have any corrosion, or lubricating properties. 50/50 AF and H2O is the best. I reccomend draining and flushing the block. heater core and rad to get the rust and any scale out then refill with the 50/50.

Straight water boils at a much lower temp. and causes localized hot spots in the cylinder walls.

How is it starting now after time to totally sit and cool?

 

[90bronco86]

Hey 90,

YES!!!! get the water out of there. It doesn't cool as well as antif/coolent, and doesn't have any corrosion, or lubricating properties. 50/50 AF and H2O is the best. I reccomend draining and flushing the block. heater core and rad to get the rust and any scale out then refill with the 50/50.

Straight water boils at a much lower temp. and causes localized hot spots in the cylinder walls.

How is it starting now after time to totally sit and cool?

She starts and runs as well as she always did, how do I do a flush? And there is rust In The radiator I can see it when I pull the cap off.

 

[Krafty]

start the truck and let it run for a couple minutes to stir up any bits of debris then shut it off and pull the lower rad hose off, reinstall and fill it wth water again, run the engine for another mintue to stir up debris then shut it off and drain it again. do that until you are happy with the cleanliness of the water coming out of the rad, then refill with a 50/50 water to antifreeze mix.

 

[90bronco86]

start the truck and let it run for a couple minutes to stir up any bits of debris then shut it off and pull the lower rad hose off, reinstall and fill it wth water again, run the engine for another mintue to stir up debris then shut it off and drain it again. do that until you are happy with the cleanliness of the water coming out of the rad, then refill with a 50/50 water to antifreeze mix.

How much antifreeze should the truck take?

 

[Rons beast]

The Beast takes about 8 quarts, if I drain everything.

Doing a flush as Krafty suggested will clean things out, but allow some straight water to remain in the heater core and block. Buy 2 gallons of straight antifreeze. I add straight antifreeze, up to 1 gal. then mix the remaining gallon 50/50 and top off if needed. Start the engine with the rad cap off. Top off again with 50/50. Fill the coolent reservoir 3/4 full with 50/50. Then run the engine till it gets warm. (Taking a drive around a block or 2 helps get trapped air out.) The heater core lines are higher than the rad neck, so air can be trapped even if you run the heat. Watch the temp gauge. if it doesn't get hot, park it and wait. DON'T OPEN THE RAD WHEN IT'S HOT. It can take awhile for trapped air to get out, so I let the engine cool, check the level in the rad again, and add if it needs it. If the reservoir is low add 50/50 there.

I keep the remaining 50/50 with me for the next few days, as driving will get any remaining air out.

I never had a problem overheating, but have had to drive 100miles or more right after a flush, and did need to add a quart or so.

Good luck, glad to hear it starts fine.

 

[90bronco86]

The Beast takes about 8 quarts, if I drain everything.

Doing a flush as Krafty suggested will clean things out, but allow some straight water to remain in the heater core and block. Buy 2 gallons of straight antifreeze. I add straight antifreeze, up to 1 gal. then mix the remaining gallon 50/50 and top off if needed. Start the engine with the rad cap off. Top off again with 50/50. Fill the coolent reservoir 3/4 full with 50/50. Then run the engine till it gets warm. (Taking a drive around a block or 2 helps get trapped air out.) The heater core lines are higher than the rad neck, so air can be trapped even if you run the heat. Watch the temp gauge. if it doesn't get hot, park it and wait. DON'T OPEN THE RAD WHEN IT'S HOT. It can take awhile for trapped air to get out, so I let the engine cool, check the level in the rad again, and add if it needs it. If the reservoir is low add 50/50 there.

I keep the remaining 50/50 with me for the next few days, as driving will get any remaining air out.

I never had a problem overheating, but have had to drive 100miles or more right after a flush, and did need to add a quart or so.

Good luck, glad to hear it starts fine.

Ok that sounds easy enough the only problem I see is that my temp gauge doesn't work but I'm sure I can get it to work without that.

 

[Rons beast]

These Broncs don't have a history of running hot. Heck, man you towed over 40 miles with just water in the rad, and it then just got a little hot!

I'm in Fla. everyday in the high 90s. I have a 180 tstat, run with the Ac on all the time and don't get close to hot.

When you can it would be a good idea to repair that temp gauge though.

Good deal! Have fun.

 

[90bronco86]

These Broncs don't have a history of running hot. Heck, man you towed over 40 miles with just water in the rad, and it then just got a little hot!

I'm in Fla. everyday in the high 90s. I have a 180 tstat, run with the Ac on all the time and don't get close to hot.

When you can it would be a good idea to repair that temp gauge though.

Good deal! Have fun.

Yeah what part of Florida you from?

Im not sure if I should start a different post, but ive been told to just take and put an aftermarket temp gauge in the truck, would that be more accurate or have any benifits.?

 

[Krafty]

I would work on trying to figure out why the factory gauge isnt working properly, but an aftermarket gauge is a good temporary solution. when I top off my rad I fire it up cold then with the cap off fill it with my mixed coolant and keep topping it off over about 10 minutes untill the level doesnt drop more than a 1/4 in after squeezing the upper rad hose. drive it around a bit and check it a day or two later and top it off again. you dont want to over fill the coolant resevoir because when the cooltant expands and reaches the pressure limit of the cap it drains into the resevoir and will cause it to over flow. if your cap it vent pressure too early it can also cause boiling and overheating because when a fluid is pressurised it also increases the boiling point and lowers the freezing point. ( if you open a beer in the snow it wont freeze until you remove the cap. then you have a beercicle)

 

[90bronco86]

I would work on trying to figure out why the factory gauge isnt working properly, but an aftermarket gauge is a good temporary solution. when I top off my rad I fire it up cold then with the cap off fill it with my mixed coolant and keep topping it off over about 10 minutes untill the level doesnt drop more than a 1/4 in after squeezing the upper rad hose. drive it around a bit and check it a day or two later and top it off again. you dont want to over fill the coolant resevoir because when the cooltant expands and reaches the pressure limit of the cap it drains into the resevoir and will cause it to over flow. if your cap it vent pressure too early it can also cause boiling and overheating because when a fluid is pressurised it also increases the boiling point and lowers the freezing point. ( if you open a beer in the snow it wont freeze until you remove the cap. then you have a beercicle)

I was told that it was the temperature sensor that screws into the thermostat housing but the piece it goes into is really coroded and I don't want to risk the whole piece breaking because I cant find it anywhere.

 

[miesk5]

I was told that it was the temperature sensor that screws into the thermostat housing but the piece it goes into is really coroded and I don't want to risk the whole piece breaking because I cant find it anywhere.

yo 90

A number of aftermarket supplies have them; check locally because some are "generic" and the ECT on passenger side atop tstat; (this is not for the temp gauge, see Temp Sender (also calle ECT) location next to Distributor); may be re-located and interfere w/installation

Location pic in a 90 5.8



Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net

Allstar Performance

Manufacturer's Part Number ALL30174

Part Type Water Necks

Product Line Allstar Performance Small Block Ford Chrome Plated Water Necks

Summit Racing Part Number AAF-ALL30174

UPC 848238018745

Water Neck Style 45 degree

Swivel No

Sealing Style O-ring

Water Neck Material Aluminum

Water Neck Finish Polished

Mounting Hardware Included Yes

Heater Bypass Provision Yes

Quantity Sold individually.

Notes Comes with bolts

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL30174/



-------

Motorcraft F5AZ 12A648 AB, Ford Coolant Temp Sensor in eBay Motors

 

[90bronco86]

yo 90

A number of aftermarket supplies have them; check locally because some are "generic" and the ECT on passenger side atop tstat; (this is not for the temp gauge, see Temp Sender (also calle ECT) location next to Distributor); may be re-located and interfere w/installation

Location pic in a 90 5.8



Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net

Allstar Performance

Manufacturer's Part Number ALL30174

Part Type Water Necks

Product Line Allstar Performance Small Block Ford Chrome Plated Water Necks

Summit Racing Part Number AAF-ALL30174

UPC 848238018745

Water Neck Style 45 degree

Swivel No

Sealing Style O-ring

Water Neck Material Aluminum

Water Neck Finish Polished

Mounting Hardware Included Yes

Heater Bypass Provision Yes

Quantity Sold individually.

Notes Comes with bolts

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL30174/



-------

Motorcraft F5AZ 12A648 AB, Ford Coolant Temp Sensor in eBay Motors

That ect piece that is circled is the part I believe I need, it looks right but I'm not sure, and I cant find it anywhere. I have the sensor that screws into it but I cant accually find the piece it goes into.

 

[miesk5]

yo 90

They all are circled, but I figure you need this

Water Pump By-Pass 3-Way Tee (HEX shape) pic & Ford part number; for coolant outlet on lower intake manifold (has the port for the ECT sensor and tubes for the heater core and TB is TUBE ASY-HTR WATER; $86.26 at Ford fordparts.com

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/22342-whoops-tried-to-change-the-ect-sensor-sheared-off-a-tube-on-the-housing/

also

Bypass Hose 302,351W

Item #30645 - New

1980-96 Bronco

fits 302,351W

$6.00

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30645-bypass-hose-302-351w.html'>http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30645-bypass-hose-302-351w.html

btw, Jeff at the Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.

http://broncograveyard.com/