Warn Locking Hubs

[Tyrell_Shoaf]

i bought a pair of warn locking hubs for my 88 bronco because my left one dosent work and a mechanic from john deer that was a friend came over to put them on for me and he couldent get them to go all the way in but the lockers were made for my year model bronco. he worked on one side for about an hour and finaly gave up, but right before he tried to put mine in he put some in a 69 bronco for me and it only took him like 30 min. what can i do

 

[Bronco_In_Ny]

compare the ones you took out and the new ones are they the same size?

 

[Tyrell_Shoaf]

yes they were the same size, i dont even know if he got the factory ones to go back on there all the way or not

 

[Bronco_In_Ny]

I would bet what is happening is the stub axle is stopping the Hub from going in all the way, I just redid all my front wheel bearings and the hubs were alittle hard to put back in, just use something to move the end of the axle and push the Hub in.

 

[Broncoholics]

Yeah, you have to giggle (move the hub up and down and side to side) a bit to get it in until it aligns the shaft with the hub.

I've had a warn hub fail on the first trip. The outer snap ring of the warn hub came off and allowed it to spin free thanks to 38.5" swampers locked up... :blink:

 

[Txquadhunter]

If it's got quite a bit of grease or anything in side it can also make the hubs hard to push in. A piece od wood or anything hard enough to tap, but soft enough to give. try easily tappin the hub in. I've had to do this a time or two.

 

[Tyrell_Shoaf]

thanks for tellin me how to do it i guess ill give it a try at doing it

 

[Bronco_In_Ny]

you don't need to bang on the hubbs, after you get the Hubs in far enough to gett the outer ring in place and youo can't get the snap ring on then reach around the tire and push the Axle out then you will be able to get the snap ring on /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> trust me in the last few days I've worked on 4 bronco's in our Club all with Warn hubs not including my own and half needed to have the axle pushed alittle from behind the wheel

 

[Tyrell_Shoaf]

the mechanic that was working on it got a bolt and screwed it in the axel and was pulling on it would it help more to push on the inside of it also

 

[Bronco_In_Ny]

the Axle Won't move very far out if you can't get the hub in Past the outerlip then you need to wiggle the Axle around as you push the Hub in that should alow you to push the hub the rest of the way then if you can't get the Snap ring on the push the axle out from behind

 

[Broncoholics]

Just a side note: I found running just the large outer snap ring helps from breaking u-joints and axles as easily. When the axle shaft snap ring is off it has a bit more room for movement otherwise its very tight with it on. If its tight and you crank the steering all the way to one direction and hit the gas you'll sometimes hear a u-joint or axle break. It usually walks the u-joint right out of the ears of the axle because its lobeing around when turning that sharp. This is why most use the full circle clips to keep the u-joint from walking out. Could be my 38.5" tires... :blink:

 

[cryptonik420]

I've found that the only way that I could get the inner lockout part of the hub into the assembly was to to just rotate it one spline at a time until it slid in. No tapping, no wiggling. It just will only go on one way in my experience. You'll know when you get it aligned correctly as it will slide right onto the axleshaft. Get rid of all that jigging screws and crap. No need for it. Once you have the hub slid into the housing, reach around the back and slide the axle forward. Slip the outer ring into the Rotor housing hub groove, put the snap ring onto the axle. From there it's easy as pie.

 

[Broncoholics]

Are you joking? The spline count is exactly the same size all the way around the hub so the warn hub will go in any direction. You don't have to find the correct spline match to get the hub in.

The reason why you have to slightly giggle the hub into position is becasue the stub shaft is heading slightly up hill without the warn hub in place. So best way is to slightly push down and it slids right in on any spline. The axle shaft bearing (spindle bearing) doesn't hold it in exact position. Believe me when I say this, I've taken apart too many... b-(

 

[Bronco_In_Ny]

Yah just do it as many of us have said, the splines are the same all the way around just move the stub axle alittle and push, and if the snap ring won't go on the axle just reach around and push the axle out alttle and then your all set.

 

[drcarter0734]

I just replaced mine this weekend and had a **** of a time on the driver side. The axle shaft shifted back a fraction on an inch to where I could not get the snapring on outer ring attached. After taking it apart several times and finally noticing that the drive part of the axle had moved back, I pulled it out as far as it could and everything went together in minutes.

 

[94_bronc]

it took my an hour of swearin to figure that out boy i felt stupid oh well its all done now only took a week to do all of the maintnace while trans was rebuilt

 

[Seabronc]

You weren't converting from automatic to manual hubs were you? If so, ther is an additional kit required. See page 29 in the Jeff's Bronco Graveyard 80 and up catalog.

Good luck,

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