Two new problems...

[snowman74]

Hey all,

Well, the last couple of days, I haven't been able to unlock the drivers side door. Sometimes I'll put my key in it, and it won't turn. So, I go to passenger side and it works from the outside. If I play with the electric door lock button (lock, unlock, lock, unlock) a few times, sometimes the driver's side door lock unlocks...sometimes not. I just have to manually open the drivers side door from the inside to unlock it. Sometimes it does work, and then I can even use the key on the outside of the drivers side door once or twice. Anybody have an idea what I need to troubleshoot first?

Second problem...Cruise control. The cruise control (steering wheel controls) has worked forever. Tonight, cruising home from Wal-Mart, I go to engage the cruise, and no workie. Tried pressing the on/off buttons a few times, played with all the buttons...no workie. I'll try it again tomorrow, but I don't think it is working at all. Any ideas where to start with this one?

Thanks to all!

Snowman74 >-

 

[89Bronco58]

sounds to me like you need to replace your door lock actuator or motor, whatever you want to call it. mine both froze up on me and i had similar problems, and about the cruise control, you might want to check the fuse first, which is the usual first step but never the problem, i would check the vaccume lines and cable under the hood, if a line popped off or cracked it wont be able to hold the throttle, id say give it the once over visually and see where your left once thats done

 

[snowman74]

Actuators for locks...check...new ones on way. Still can't figure out the cruise control issue...

Thanks!

 

[89Bronco58]

pop the wheel cover off and make sure everything is connected good, check the fuse, and check the vaccume lines and cruise control cable going to the throttle as well

 

[kgriffi1]

I would suggest checking all the vacuum lines for leaks. As for the locking issue when I got my truck it had the same problem. I just took the door apart and PB blasted it. If you take everything apart and just lubricate you might be ok. Key not turning in the lock sound like corrosion. Spray WD-40 PB blaster or anything in it. It should free right up. Good luck.

 

[snowman74]

Anybody have a good technique for checking vacuum lines? Also, how does the cruise/center part of the steering wheel come off? Thanks y'all.

Snowman74 >-

 

[Seabronc]

Anybody have a good technique for checking vacuum lines? Also, how does the cruise/center part of the steering wheel come off? Thanks y'all.Snowman74 >-

Use a propane bottle. Start the engine and open the valve of a propane torch and move it around the vacuum system. If the engine speeds up, you have found the leak. I keep forgetting what year truck you have. Why don't you put that information in your signature /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

Good luck,

>-

 

[snowman74]

Thanks Fred...that's a good tip. My signature line already does have my info in it...does it not show on your end?

Jim

 

[Seabronc]

Thanks Fred...that's a good tip. My signature line already does have my info in it...does it not show on your end?Jim

Duh!!! B) I must have been tired :wacko: Maybe the paint on my glasses covered it up I had just climbed out from under my truck from painting the frame with POR15. I've got black streaks on my left ear which will be there until it wears off, looks kinda like black mold h34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . I think I need a protective suit to keep from painting myself /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

>-

 

[snowman74]

Duh!!! B) I must have been tired :wacko: Maybe the paint on my glasses covered it up I had just climbed out from under my truck from painting the frame with POR15. I've got black streaks on my left ear which will be there until it wears off, looks kinda like black mold h34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . I think I need a protective suit to keep from painting myself /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
>-

Or at the very least a face-mask. Do you like that POR15 better than Rustbullet? I ask because I am going to paint my flooring like you show on your Supermotors page...was thinking about getting Rustbullet.

 

[miesk5]

on da actuator/lock, try cleaning & white lithium lubing as much as you can get to. other stuff: we use powdered dry graphite on your key and insert/twist a few times

ck door latch rod's clip for damage/gunk build-up there as well as on other rods, bushings, etc.

here is a diagram

if actuator;

Door Lock Actuator Replacement in an 86 Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net

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Cruise (Speed) Control (Vacuum ) TSB 90-25-12 by Ford for 86-91 Aerostar, Bronco, Econoline, Explorer, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger & cars via miesk5 (Al) at Miesk5's Home Page of Big Bronco Links home.comcast.net

GL!

 

[Seabronc]

Or at the very least a face-mask. Do you like that POR15 better than Rustbullet? I ask because I am going to paint my flooring like you show on your Supermotors page...was thinking about getting Rustbullet.

POR15 is the only product I have ever used so I can't say about Rustbullet. I started using it on the suggestion of a fleet mechanic I know. He has used it for years and loves it. He said if it is applied properly it never comes off and the rust is nailed. In my limited experience with it I love it. It is a 3 to 4 step process and some people are too anxious to get it done, (degrease, metal prep with POR Metal ready, apply POR15, topcoat if it is to be exposed to the sun). They guarantee that if you follow those steps it will never rust again. I degrease and add in wire brushing and grinding down any rust bumps in the metal preparation, (that is on heavy metal like the frame or remove rusted areas in lighter metal like skins). I'm replacing my front fenders and have included in the process to coat the inside with POR15.

Good luck,

>-

 

[snowman74]

Fred: Sounds very similar to the Rustbullet technique. I'll check into that POR stuff though, because Rustbullet is so damn expensive. Thanks for the advice!

Al: Thanks for the links....I hadn't stopped by your site yet, so I'll give her a try. Your site is awesome!

I appreciate you guys' help...couldn't have had my Bronco running so well without all the help you have given. Thanks!

Snowman74 >-

 

[Seabronc]

Fred: Sounds very similar to the Rustbullet technique. I'll check into that POR stuff though, because Rustbullet is so damn expensive. Thanks for the advice!
Al: Thanks for the links....I hadn't stopped by your site yet, so I'll give her a try. Your site is awesome!

I appreciate you guys' help...couldn't have had my Bronco running so well without all the help you have given. Thanks!

Snowman74 >-

Unfortunately they both are expensive /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

>-

 

[snowman74]

Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every now and then. The cruise control cable that mounts right on the throttle cable, where it clips on to the throttle body...well, it had come un-clipped from the throttle cable. That's why the cruise wasn't working. I've GOT to get a new throttle cable. Anyway, thanks all for the help.

Jim

 

[miesk5]

Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every now and then. The cruise control cable that mounts right on the throttle cable, where it clips on to the throttle body...well, it had come un-clipped from the throttle cable. That's why the cruise wasn't working. I've GOT to get a new throttle cable. Anyway, thanks all for the help.Jim

GOOD Job!

Ford had it right dead-on in da TSB..."The servo (throttle actuator) and throttle linkage should operate freely and smoothly." send Henry a beer...or whatshis name?..Bill?