trying to find the problem

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WileE7

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over the last few days i've noticed that my truck doesn't respond as it usually does. when i step on the gas i lose power once i reach 15mph the speed stays the same but its like the car doesn't want to move i have to floor it to get it to reach 45mph and keep up with traffic. someone told me my throttle body could be dirty cleaned it and it still takes 2 or 3 starts to get it started i thought it was a vacuum line but i couldn't find any broken or loose the engine responds fine when i'm at idle but its when i drive that's when i have a problem. my neighbor thinks it could be my torque converter but i have no idea. i thought i'd ask the Zone before i started doing anything major. i'd hate to spend a lot of money fixing something that was easy and inexpensive to fix

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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never mind, yes i have a check engine light it comes on when the engine reaches 3500 rpm's when i'm going 25-35mph

 

miesk5

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never mind, yes i have a check engine light it comes on when the engine reaches 3500 rpm's when i'm going 25-35mph
ok, I forgot to ask, what year and engine/tranny?

read Ryan's info on how to troubleshoot using DTCs; Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

a shop wil charge you ~$80.00; or get it done at AutoZone for free/

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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ok, I forgot to ask, what year and engine/tranny?

read Ryan's info on how to troubleshoot using DTCs; Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

a shop wil charge you ~$80.00; or get it done at AutoZone for free/
90 5.0L E40D I wish we had an AutoZone here i was also told i should get my fuel injectors cleaned

 

firelt90bronco

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My 90 gives me **** sometimes, take it to Advance Autoparts and have them hook it up to a scanner tool. After I did my fuel pump mine goes 60 when it used to do 40.

 

miesk5

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90 5.0L E40D I wish we had an AutoZone here i was also told i should get my fuel injectors cleaned
ok, do the Self Test yourself; Ryan wrote it up well; he has the DTCs there too.

then come back and post the codes here.

 

snowman74

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ok, I forgot to ask, what year and engine/tranny?

read Ryan's info on how to troubleshoot using DTCs; Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

a shop wil charge you ~$80.00; or get it done at AutoZone for free/

I'm sorry, Am I reading that correctly? 3500 RPMs at 25 to 30 MPH?

I don't know what my tranny is, or how to tell. I just know it is a 4 speed manual, with first being a granny. Not sure what the gearing is in my rear end either...but at three grand, in fourth, I'm doing 65 MPH. I need education on gearing. Any suggestions?

Snowman74 :)>-

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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I'm sorry, Am I reading that correctly? 3500 RPMs at 25 to 30 MPH?

I don't know what my tranny is, or how to tell. I just know it is a 4 speed manual, with first being a granny. Not sure what the gearing is in my rear end either...but at three grand, in fourth, I'm doing 65 MPH. I need education on gearing. Any suggestions?

Snowman74 :)>-
The codes i got were 67 67 1 32 32

what is the 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit and the EVP circuit and will i have to change my torque converter

 
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miesk5

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The codes i got were 67 67 1 32 32

what is the 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit and the EVP circuit and will i have to change my torque converter
67 Neutral safety switch only effect engine running codes or AC was on during test

-------------

32

Possible causes by Ryan!!!! :

-- Poor continuity in EVP harness or connectors.

-- Open or short in EVP sensor or harness.

-- Damaged EVP sensor.

-- Obstructed or cracked vacuum hose.

 

my #1 guess is the EVP sensor, but check the wiring / connectors. the fact that the sensor gave a extremly low reading, meant it told the computer the EGR was closed lower than possible. So something in / at that sensor is *****. Test the EVP sensor: http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

 

Test the EGR vacuum solenoid

http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/egr03.jpg

Apply vacuum to the bottom port, it should hold a vacuum.

It should not leak to the top port! that would open the EGR

 

While you got vacuum holding on the bottom port energize the solenoid. How you may ask? Ground the left pin and +12 to the right pin. Vacuum should escape out the top port. (right and left as seen in the pic)

 

The soleniod should also have 20-50 ohms resistance between the pins. But I assume that will pass cause you don't have a code 84/558

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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67 Neutral safety switch only effect engine running codes or AC was on during test

-------------

32

Possible causes by Ryan!!!! :

-- Poor continuity in EVP harness or connectors.

-- Open or short in EVP sensor or harness.

-- Damaged EVP sensor.

-- Obstructed or cracked vacuum hose.

 

my #1 guess is the EVP sensor, but check the wiring / connectors. the fact that the sensor gave a extremly low reading, meant it told the computer the EGR was closed lower than possible. So something in / at that sensor is *****. Test the EVP sensor: http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

 

Test the EGR vacuum solenoid

http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/egr03.jpg

Apply vacuum to the bottom port, it should hold a vacuum.

It should not leak to the top port! that would open the EGR

 

While you got vacuum holding on the bottom port energize the solenoid. How you may ask? Ground the left pin and +12 to the right pin. Vacuum should escape out the top port. (right and left as seen in the pic)

 

The soleniod should also have 20-50 ohms resistance between the pins. But I assume that will pass cause you don't have a code 84/558
 

the AC was off

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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ok, forget that for now and do the other tests on the EVP, etc.
i haven't had a chance to do evp test but one of my problems was i had 2 bad spark plug wires i'll be doing the test soon i'll let you know what happens

 

miesk5

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i haven't had a chance to do evp test but one of my problems was i had 2 bad spark plug wires i'll be doing the test soon i'll let you know what happens
OK!

on the 5.0, make sure the # 7 & 8 Spark Plug cables are routed according to the sticker on radiator supprt; X firing will occur if not routed iaw diagram

 

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