Truck is sputtering

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Michael.Banks

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So this morning i was getting into my 93 bronco when I put it into first it started to sputter and wanted to die, the batter gauge was moving like crazy back and forth. Could it be the timing or do I just need to let the engine warm up for a good 10-20 minutes before driving it.

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Michael., Welcome...

Well., what's the rest of the story..? Did it warm up & smooth out..? :unsure:

Just a "guessing game" at this point W/O related details.

Choke issues., loose/dirty bat. cables., weak/dying bat. combined with cold weather...

"when I put it into first"

Does this mean it's a stick shift...?

Do fill in your info./signature pages on this site for specific help.

 
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Michael.Banks

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Hi Michael., Welcome...

Well., what's the rest of the story..? Did it warm up & smooth out..? :unsure:

Just a "guessing game" at this point W/O related details.

Choke issues., loose/dirty bat. cables., weak/dying bat. combined with cold weather...

"when I put it into first"

Does this mean it's a stick shift...?

Do fill in your info./signature pages on this site for specific help.
 
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Michael.Banks

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Hi Michael., Welcome...

Well., what's the rest of the story..? Did it warm up & smooth out..? :unsure:

Just a "guessing game" at this point W/O related details.

Choke issues., loose/dirty bat. cables., weak/dying bat. combined with cold weather...

"when I put it into first"

Does this mean it's a stick shift...?

Do fill in your info./signature pages on this site for specific help.
Basically since I was late for work I just got in my other car and drove off. It was working great last night. The battery and battery cables are new and it was 39 degrees outside. The sputtering seemed to start when I put it in gear only.

 

miesk5

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yo,

I suggest a quick Visual check and what Ford calls the "wiggle test" on the batty cables from posts to starter relay on fender liner and whatever ground cable(s) you can get to in this weather. Also check alternator cable and connector to batty.

Then ck alt belt and if you can turn alt pulley by hand and/or there is unusual noises in the area of the idler/tensioner, then belt needs replacement and/or idler/tensioner is on it's way to recycling heaven.

If nothing looks unusual, then get charging and starting sys checked for free at parts store.

 

Krafty

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when you replaced the distributor cap did you also replace the rotor?

if you read my "Spark but no Spark" post does some of my symptoms sound familiar?

 

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