Transfercases

[Redneck86]

I wanna swap a gear driven NP205 transfercase into my truck. For one im sick of dealin with these NP208s, The shift forks apperantly **** a**, The used one i bought has got worn out ones too, so i either want a 205 or ill get the rebuilt 208 if itll last. So what has to be done to put a 205 case in my truck, ive been told that the 205 wont bolt up to a 80s C6, and would i have to swap driveshafts? Pretty much i wanna know if id be better off gettin a 205 or a rebuilt 208. Im not buildin the truck up too much im plannin on sellin it for a 78/79 bronc after i have it in better shape.

 

[Seabronc]

Everything wears out, especially if it is not properly maintained, (no suggestion you didn't, just a comment). The same NP208 is in my truck that came with it 25 years ago, still working fine /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . The conversion cost, if it could be done, would probably cost you more than a rebuilt 208.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Redneck86]

Yea i was thinkin that it would be cheaper for a rebuilt 208. I saw the rebuilt one on jeffs, but i have a extra 208 now. How hard would it be for me to rebuild this one?

 

[Justshootme84]

The NP205 will bolt up to your 80's C6 auto. However, the 205 uses two shifter rails, and the stock adapter on the back of the tranny is slotted on the side for those two rails. The adapter is also cast iron like the 205 housing, and comes in two lengths (5-3/4" for F-150's and 8-3/4" for Broncos.)A big disadvantage of the 205 is the gear ratio (about 1.7:1) vs the 208 (2.7:1), another is the 205 weighs about 180# vs 75# for the 208. You need to add a crossmember for the 205, and will change driveshaft lengths. For serious rock crawling, the 205 is good when mated with the front half of a NP203 to make a "doubler" t-case set-up for different crawl ratios. With that said, You should be able to find enough 208s to keep you going, even if you have to rebuild one. I've sold three to the same dude who keeps breaking them, even though they worked fine for me.Keeping ATF fluid in the 208 is vital, as if using the skid plate. The 205's I have all work fine, too, but have a problem with the front output seal leaking gear oil. JSM84

 

[Broncobill78]

Yeah, I have to agree. The 205 is probably the strongest xfer case available and in a stock-configuration truck it's a hard combo to beat when matched with the solid axle & V8. HOWEVER, as a swap it's a real bear to deal with. As JSM mentioned the gear ratios could be a lot better (although to be honest I haven't taken the time to see what alternative ratios are available if you're willing to commit to a rebuilt/refresh), the dual rail shifter will take a lot of material out of any adapter you'd use and pretty much ANY 205 swap will have to involve fabricating a new cross-member or some sort of Heavy-duty hanger since the 205 has to weigh at *least* 100lbs more than any other case & probably more than that. The all-gear construction and an iron case are a far cry from the magnesium cased chaindrives. 208's are common enough that you shouldn't have any trouble finding one and I've seen several high-mileage units take a LOT of punishment with no upgrades other than synthetic ATF. Running synthetic is almost a no-brainer in the Xfer case since it only takes 2-3 qts, It's WELL worth the $15 for the improved lubrication, extended lifetime of the case and the improvement in how well/easy it shifts.

The Electric BW1356 in my 88' has been swapped for a simple chaindrive 208, with synthetic ATF and reasonable treatment I expect it to do just fine. Most 208 failures are lubrication related, so if you take care of that up front most of the other problems go away.

 

[Redneck86]

Yea id really like to build my 86 up, but the more i think about the more it makes sense to get a 73-79 Ford Pickup or 78/79 Bronco, they both already have everything on it in lookin for from the factory(NP205, NP435, Dana 44, and the Big Block FE or 400M). So i think im just gonna rebuild one of my 208s and be done with it.

 

[Broncobill78]

I'd have to agree. Building up an 86' is nice, but it's a LOT of work once you start looking into what you'd need to add a 205 and anything else. You're WAY ahead of the game by starting off with a 73-79 or 78/79 chassis. The frames are better and setup for the straight axle right out of the box. To me the smartest move would be to find a 78/79 Bronco and trim the chassis to fit your 86' body. You'd have the best of everything. While I *personally* prefer the 78/79 bodies you'd have to spend a few bux to rebuild one to be as nice as an 80+ shell. I honestly think a 92+ body on a 78/79 chassis would be pretty much the ultimate Bronco.

 

[Redneck86]

Yea i have no problem with the looks of the 70s big broncos or pickups, i just thought it would be really bad ass to have a built 86 /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . But i dont wanna drop all that money into my 86 to have a 460, D44 and all that other good stuff, and never get any of it back. I think im gonna try to get a short box F150 so ill have a bed to throw shit in the back, and not have to worry about it flyin around and hittin me like whats happened in my bronco before :wacko:

Speakin of 460s, do those 385 series engines like blowin up? Theres alot of broncos around here with blown 429s and 460s in them, are they prone to blowin or do people just like to swap worn out ones in and call it good?

 

[Justshootme84]

OK, then, my advice is to buy a 78 Bronco for a trail rig, and also get a 79 F-150 pick-up for a weekend warrior (see my signature). I paid $1800 for the 78 and $1000 for the 79. Do 460's like blowing up? I'd say not near a bad a the 351W boat anchors. I wsa about to buy a 460/C6/Np205 out of a rock crawler last year, but the dude backed out. A month later while running a trail, he blew up the 460. Gotta keep oil in the motor, whatever size or brand it is, JSM84

 

[Redneck86]

Yea i was thinkin about that after i got a F150, And my bronco has the 351W its an alright motor and i keep the oil changed in every 3K with Castrol GTX high milage and a Fram tough guard filter. One ting about the windsor i want to know, when i put headers on it and took all the emissions off there was a hose that ran from the smog pump to a canister lookin thing and then went to a pipe and the pipe was in the back of the heads. I think was the EGR but where the hose was suppose to run to the pipe it was rusted off and the hose just kinda sat there. What does that do exactly?? There no vacuum commin off of it and its not plugged up...i havent seen that set up any 385 series blocks or Milfords.

 

[Broncobill78]

It's hard to give advise without knowing just where someone's at, but the simple fact is that building a simple, basic 429/460 will yield and *almost* indestructable engine with more HP & torque than most guys can use. As JSM sagaciously noted, keeping oil in the engine does a LOT to improve it's longevity.

I've dealt with that silly exhaust crossover and don't have much to offer other than suggesting a 460.

Fact is you will be hard pressed to exceed anything a 429/460 makes from idle to wide-open. A mild big-block will usually loaf along ahead of everyone else until someone twitches their right foot & then the race is over.

Redistributing the Smog features is a bit beyond me at the moment. For right now I'll settle for kicking the $hit out of anything with less than 450HP. Run what you brung or go home.