thinking about buying an 88

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Armyengineer

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i found a 88 bronco eddie bauer ed. that looks great and drives great. everything works except for a few minor and 1 major things.

minors are- right blinker doesnt stay so you have to hold it up, passenger seat belt is gone,and the weather stripping is going out.

even the rust is little and its what you expect out of this old of a vehicle. its had 1 owner and so far there's only 1 major fix-up that might even be a minor but i need help decided if its a head gasket or valve cover. it had a oil leak somewhere and its constant because theres a consistency of oil that drips. i found out it was old and fresh when i went under. it would be considered a class 2 leak if i was to PMCS. now the for leak itself we can tell that is coming from the top. i had my buddy out there with me since he is a mechanic at my motor pool and we both believe it is a valve cover since there is no water in the oil which i believe if there was that would be the head gasket or am i wrong? i just wanted to check up on this and see what yall might think. he wants 2800 for and it and i can probably bring him down a few hundred or so. thanks.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo ARMY,

WELCOME!

Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission pump seal leaks. The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem.

Leakage at the valve cover may allow engine oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing.

Oil plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the converter housing.

Leakage at the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing.

leaking from the pan gasket, pan can be rusted out as mine is and causing a leak... Mine isn't leaking, yet, but I have been removomg rust where I can get to and using Rust Bullet or =

chwck oil dip stick tube

Availability of New Silicone Gasket & Sealant TSB 98-7-4 for 84-96 Bronco; 84-98 Econoline, F-150, F-250 HD, F-250 LD; 84-99 Super Duty F Series, etc. Source: by Ford

ISSUE A new Silicone Gasket And Sealant (F7AZ-19554-EA) material is now available for routine engine service or repair of engine oil leaks.

ACTION Use the new Silicone Gasket And Sealant for servicing:

Oil pan gaskets and T-joints

Intake end seals

Overhead cam caps

Valve and timing covers

Bearing split lines

Side cover plates

Rear oil seals

The new sealant has better adhesion, flexibility for moving/vibrating joints, resistance to fluids, and is easier to dispense.

NOTE: THIS MATERIAL IS NOT A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR A SILICONE RUBBER, GRAPHITE, OR OTHER TYPE OF PRE-FORMED GASKET.

F7AZ-19554-EA Silicone Gasket And Sealant

one more comment by me on this. When I was Navy & @ shore... I often met w/many suppliers esp. the major US steel mills. One rep. (John.. a great man!) described the differences between companies that manufacture commercial and industrial products ranging from refigerators to trucks.

When selling appliance/vehicle body panel, etc. rolled steel to the customer, the mills would discount 10% automatically because the edges and outside coil of the steel roll would be rusty or slightly damaged due to storage/shipment.

The "higher quality firms" would basically scrap these sections; while the "others" would try to remove or minimize the rusty sections and use it in various "non-appearance" parts of the vehicle or item they were manufacturing.

This was in the 80's and 90's; and as we know, since then, Ford and other manufacturers have improved the body panel specs and quality exc. for this and some other items (tailgates and some suspension components).

Leak Detection with UV/blue light, General (mostly ad, but good DIY info tips)

Source: by http://www.tracerline.com/content/what-are-existing-vehicle-leak-detection-methods-and-what-are-their-strengths-and-weaknesses

luorescent Leak Detection

Employs an ultraviolet or UV/blue light inspection lamp and fluorescent dyes to find even the smallest leaks quickly and easily. It locates multiple leaks and those not found by any other method. Its lack of disadvantages explains why it is the most popular leak detection technique. In addition to diagnostics, it is the only preventive/programmed maintenance method that detects all refrigerant and fluid leaks.

Visual Inspection

This labor-intensive procedure is very time-consuming except for the largest, most obvious leaks. Some people lay newspaper down to try to locate the general area of the leak. They will check the color of the fluid to try to identify what system it is coming from, i.e., red for transmission fluid, green for coolant, etc. However, it’s often difficult to pinpoint the exact source. Cannot be used for refrigerant leaks or for small leaks which evaporate right away. It’s difficult to detect clear liquids.

Soapy Water and Bubble Solutions

Although it’s inexpensive, this method has a number of serious drawbacks. In addition to being very time-consuming, it is not applicable to oil, hydraulics, transmissions and fuel. Only for refrigerant leaks.

Talcum Powder

Spraying foot powder on and around a suspect area may help you to find the leak if you’re lucky. But don’t run the engine, or you’ll make a real mess. This powder can also foul up carburetors. Only for oil leaks. I used to remove fan and run engine to spot leak source(s); stoppping eng when it reashed norm op temp

Ion Detector ("Sniffer")

Detects only the general area of a refrigerant leak, not the exact location.This fragile device does not withstand hard use. In addition, it does not operate well in humid conditions. Only for refrigerant leaks.

Compressed Air

Used in water-cooling systems, it can damage hoses, radiators, and other components. It can actually cause additional leaks and enlarge existing ones. Only for coolant leaks.

Dipstick TSB 88-08-09 for 84-88 ALL LIGHT TRUCK LINES; "...The markings on the engine oil level dipstick (indicator) may not be read correctly or could possibly be misinterpreted. This can result in overfilling the engine with oil in newly delivered vehicles or thinking that the engine has been overfilled with the specified amount of oil during oil and filter changes. NOTE: PROPER OIL FILL IS BASED ON A SPECIFIED VOLUME AND IS LISTED IN THE "VEHICLE ENGINE OIL LEVEL CAPACITY SPECIFICATION CHART" AND THE "FLUID REFILL CAPACITIES CHART" OF THE VEHICLE OWNERS GUIDE. USE THESE RECOMMENDED VOLUMES WHENEVER REFILLING THE ENGINE WITH OIL. Old Style Design Dipstick; On "MAX/ADD" style dipsticks the "MAX" line represents an allowable tolerance limit of approximately 1/2 quart above the specified (normal) engine operating level. The oil level of a properly filled engine should indicate an oil level reading in the upper crosshatched area of the dipstick. NOTE: DO NOT "TOP OFF" TO THE "MAX" LINE. IF THE OIL LEVEL GOES ABOVE THE "MAX" LINE, A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF OIL SHOULD BE REMOVED TO BRING THE OIL LEVEL READING BACK INTO THE CROSSHATCHED AREA OF THE DIPSTICK. New Style Design Dipstick; On "FULL/ADD", "FULL/ADD 1 QUART" or "F" style dipsticks the oil level of an engine filled with the correct amount of oil, as listed in the "Vehicle Oil Capacity Specification Chart" will normally occur slightly above the "FULL" line. This occurs because the "FULL" mark on the dipstick represents the lowest level of oil that could occur when an engine is filled with the specified volume of oil. This variation in oil level is due to manufacturing tolerances and oil level checking conditions..." SEE DIAGRAM

tsb880809dipstick.jpg

by Ford via Steve

 

Thepossumface

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i would try for 1900 for 2k at best, but if its the REAL orginal owner then he should be able to tell u all about it.

if not he's prob blowing smoke up ur butt, ive seen it and delt with it. but if you think its worth the time and money go for it.

POST PICS of it it should help decide,

 

inxy

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My Bronc is an '88. Turn indicator is first sign of the switch going. Replaced mine, not all that hard. Seat belt will need replacing. My weather stripping is bad but I don't care. What engine and transmission ?

 

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