tcase swap or rebuild?

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wtfdissux

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i have an odd t case problem when i shift into 4 hi or low (with hubs locked of course) and start to drive the front makes a growling noise and it gets worse on turns when i tried this same thing with all four wheels off the ground the front wheels are flying and the go at a snails pace if i hit the gas the grinding starts but i cant locate the source of the noise.

to make it worse when the truck is off and front locked i spinn the wheels and the drive shaft moves same in the rear when i put it into 4 and do the same i get the same results is it possible that the shift linkage is damaged and the rear is stuck into low and front in high??? the last time i used low before al this started up it was hard to shift into lo even though it was and is easy to shift into hi

sorry for going on and on but after working in a garage for a few years i learned that as much info as possible always helps and it is difficult if not impossible to diagnose sight unseen

 
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wtfdissux

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CRAP i almost forgot the point was should i rebuild if needed or is it better to just replace and if so stock or is there something else that is still pretty much bolt - in but more durable than a bw 1356 since i dont do much in the line of major off roading

 

BLADE262US

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There is nothing wrong with a BW 1356 its a very good case . There is no way that the rear can be in low and the front in high mechanically impossible on this case . now what I would do is unbolt both drive shafts . shift the T case into neutral and turn both output yokes looking for any unusual noise or crunchy feeling if none shift into 4 hi with the transmission in neutral and turn the rear output yoke the front yoke will also turn this is also a good time to see how bad the chain is stretched the front yoke should turn shortly after the rear starts to move the sooner the better. Again listen for any strange noises , Now shift into 4 low the yoke will be a bit harder to turn now and again listen for anything unusual . If it passes all this then the T case is pretty much ruled out and I would start looking at the lockouts on the front axle as one may not be engaging all the way to where under load the splines are slipping out . Try that and let us know . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

countryboy

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<_< i'd almost completly rule out the t case. try what blade262us said. but you might also want to check the front pinion nut, (may be loose) it may move enough for the front gears to slip or catch ( it may be worth a try) :glare:
 
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wtfdissux

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will try and get time tomorrow to check it out if the snow lets up since I found another bronco 2 blocks over for under 600 this truck might get "parked" for a while so I can work on it with more time instead of small projects here and there as it is my daily driver

when I have them unbolted and turn them how much slippage should be within acceptable before the front output turns (chain slack) if the chain is the culprit there is a 4 x 4 guy where I used to work that owes me a few favors might call him out to rebuild it

 

BLADE262US

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The yoke should turn some before the other starts Id say probably 1/2 inch or so is normal some will have hardly any movement before the other is there those are the ones that didnt get used too much . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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wtfdissux

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ok the snow let up and is not to bad outside so will give it a look today and check the rear gear ratio while am at it as it is not original axle but the 4x worked after it was put in for quite a while just want to rule it out for peace of mind

 
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wtfdissux

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Well had limited success today, got the front drive shaft off and raised the rear axle off the ground because the double joint on the rear did not feel like cooperating. The case spun fine in neutral and 4 hi did not try 4 lo because its too damn cold for my arthritis out there. Then with the front shaft still loose locked the front hubs and tried to turn the front pinion it was locked up. Then freed the left and re-checked it turned then re-locked the left and freed the right and again it turned so I am guessing that I have a limited slip front. So at any rate am now really wondering what the #*%@ is going on It seems to me that the T-case is operating like it should and the hubs are as well so now what? I am running out of ideas here

 
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wtfdissux

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Also before I forget without pulling the rear diff cover how can I tell what gear ratio I have (the tag is rusted off)?

 

BLADE262US

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You can count the number of teeth and divide the pinion into the ring gear or sometimes you can look on the ring gear where the part number is stamped there will also be a number like 41-10 4:10 gear :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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wtfdissux

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i remember some where seeing something about turning the pinion and count revolutions at the wheel this diff is not going to stay in the truck long enough to make it worth the fluid and sealer just wondering whith regards to the t- case problems

 
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wtfdissux

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ok had a chance to get the truck up in the air yesterday and found a few things that may be contributing to the problem. first the u-joint on the front shaft closest to the t-case was shot 2 sides were ground to dust the other were just plain cooked. also the trany mount is shot probobly caused by the leaking rear main that i have yet to get time to do. that will have to wait until i get the brakes on my 93 figured out but any way the odd part is whith all four wheels off the ground i spun th rear drive wheel and watched the front and they are not rotating the same in fact the rear 1 full turn is about 3/4 turn in the front even though the gears are the same front and rear

 

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