Suspension question

[cah193]

I have a 1995 Eddie Bauer with the 5.8 engine. It has 150,000 miles. The back end is sagging and the ride is getting rough. It has original shocks and leaf springs as far as I can tell, I am the second owner. Should I replace the shocks? Should I replace the leaf springs or go the "add a spring" route? How hard would the replacement be for a novice shade tree mechanic? These may be dumb questions but I have no suspension knowledge at all.

 

[miesk5]

yo cah,

For best results and less $, I'd replace the leaf springs and inspect Brackets for extreme rust (some have been known to rust thru completely and fracture)

Removal & Installation, Parts Break-Out Diagram & Torques in a 96 (SAME for your 95)

by FORD

BE SURE TO BLOCK THE TIRES, in Front and Back of each tire; I use cement landscaping blocks and used to use wheel chock wedges until someone "borrowed" them.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Towpower-Wheel-Chock-Wedges-2pk/16880816

Door Jamb Label (Certification Label, also referred to as the Patent Plate, Data Plate & the Warranty Plate) pic in a 95 5.0 & E4OD



Source: by Jon F ("The Bronco")

Spring Codes; "...This table shows the aftermarket spring # s which correspond to the Ford Spring Code.." miesk5 Note; my 96 xl w/E4)D and 5.0 has Code D; Ford pn F4TA-5560-DB

Source: by husky spring @ http://www.huskyspring.com/Bronco-Full-Size-Rear-Spring-Code-Lookup_c_857.html

Specfications in 78-79 & 80-96; Number of Leaves, Width, Measurements (A & B)/>, Pack Thickness, Capacity in pounds

Source: by Demonio Irelandes at http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo117/93gc40/leaf_springs.png

REPLACE SHOCKS IF THEY ARE LEAKING OR FAIL REBOUND TEST

Each shock absorber can be tested by bouncing the corner of the truck until maximum up and down movement is obtained. Let go of the truck. It should stop bouncing in 1-2 bounces. If not, the shock should be inspected for damage and possibly replaced. Check the shock mountings for worn or defective grommets, loose mounting nuts, interference or missing bump stops. If no apparent defects are noted, continue testing. Disconnect each shock lower mount and pull down on the shock until it is fully extended. inspect for leaks in the seal area. Shock absorber fluid is very thin and has a characteristic odor and dark brown color. Don't confuse the glossy paint on some shocks with leaking fluid. A slight trace of fluid is a normal condition; they are designed to seep a certain amount of fluid past the seals for lubrication. If you are in doubt as to whether the fluid on the shock is coming from the shock itself or from some other source, wipe the seal area clean and manually operate the shock (see the following procedure). Fluid will appear if the unit is leaking. It may be necessary to fabricate a holding fixture for certain types of shock absorbers. If a suspected problem is in the front shocks, disconnect both front shock lower mountings. When manually operating air shocks, the air line must be disconnected at the shock. Grip the lower end of the shock and pull down (rebound stroke) and then push up (compression stroke). The control arms will limit the movement of front shocks during the compression stroke. Compare the rebound resistance of both shocks and compare the compression resistance. Usually any shock showing a noticeable difference will be the one at fault. If the shock has internal noises, extend the shock fully then exert an extra pull. If a small additional movement is felt, this usually means a loose piston and the shock should be replaced. Other noises that are cause for replacing shocks are a squeal after a full stroke in both directions, a clicking noise on fast reverse and a lag at reversal near mid-stroke..."

 

[miesk5]

yo, btw, No Qs here is da Zone are considered "dumb"

May be considered that in other Forums, but not here.

Again, BE SURE TO BLOCK THE TIRES, in Front and Back of each tire; I use cement landscaping blocks and used to use wheel chock wedges until someone "borrowed" them.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Towpower-Wheel-Chock-Wedges-2pk/16880816

ONE SOURCE IS OUR SPONSOR here; Jeffs

they have -

Rear Springs, Stock (Pair)

Item #33251 - New

1980-96 Bronco, F150 4x4

4 Pack Leaf Spring

Pair

1389lb per spring

Restore that sagging rear end! No we're not talking about plastic surgery.

Brand new leaf springs for your 1980-96 Bronco!

These will bring the rear of your Bronco back to stock height.

1,389lb weight rating per spring.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33251-rear-springs-stock-pair-.html'>http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33251-rear-springs-stock-pair-.html

$205.00

&

Rear Springs, (Pair)

Item #33254 - New

1980-96 Ford F250

1980-98 Ford F350

6 Pack Leaf Spring

Pair

2,977lb per spring

4.25" arch

To be used with factory block applications

Restore that sagging rear end! No we're not talking about plastic surgery.

Brand new leaf springs for your 1980-96 F250 and 1980-98 F350

These will bring the rear of your F250 back to stock height.

NOTES:

These may also be used as extreme heavy duty springs for your Ford Bronco or Ford F150.

2,977lb weight rating per spring.

$299.00

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33254-rear-springs-stock-pair-.html

ASK for DISCOUNT;

Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.

http://broncograveyard.com

I have been trying to verify that Jeff is still offering this discount but no repsonses yet.

GL!