Starting restoration on a 1996 - the rear end is first - advice needed

[islandhopper03]

Howdy everyone!!

Finished up my newbie post last week and need to get into the nitty gritty of our new to us, 1996 XLT. Its sure is a pretty truck and I am excited about working on it and getting it back into tip top condition. She's gotta a lot of wear and tear with almost 245,000 miles on the 351 (Windsor? Cleveland?) but for now, she runs and drives. There is a good bit of rust underneath and very little on the exterior. We bought it from used car salesman friend of ours sight unseen as this particular model (actually the Eddie Bauer edition) is my wife's favorite vehicle. I promised to make sure it runs and drives good for her and in driving it now for the past few weeks, I've got a loud "clunk" in the rear end when accelerating from a complete stop, either forward or in reverse. Took it to a mechanic friend of mine and he firmly believes that the pinion bearing and rear differential at the very least need replacing. Since I am new to this, I pulled the tag off of the rear pumpkin and deduced that I have the standard Ford 8.8 rear end with the 3.55 limited slip differential. Pic of the tag is attached. I've gone and sold my daily driver truck to buy what parts I need to get this first issue resolved so I am needing to get it done pretty quick. The motorcycle gets cold this time of year in northern Virginia. So my thoughts and questions on the repair thus far are:

1. Being a newbie, how do I know if I have ABS?

2. I'd like to replace the whole rear axle and switch to disc brakes. I've found these on the old interwebs and wonder if they would work for my application:

    http://www.lowmileageparts.com/1996-FORD-BRONCO-Rear-Axle-Assembly-P128584.aspx?gclid=Cj0KEQiAn9-kBRDloNeUw7Pe_YwBEiQA4HXMU8FUeHn04ylqM2Im0s0BEtCRqeXs4SpLkGgWE8AGh6QaAkDb8P8HAQ#.VJhqEF4CA

3. I'm currently running 32 inch BFGoodrich tires. Will the new 8.8 rear end be ok for this setup? Should I switch to something more heavy duty?

4. If i do switch out the whole rear axle assembly, what concerns about brakes and sensors should I address?

5. If the whole rear axle assembly doesn't happen, what specifically should I buy to replace everything inside the rear differential? Would this work?

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/88-Rear-End-Rebuild-Kit/productinfo/32380B/

6. Could I or should I change the gearing?

Thanks in advance,

Roy

 

[miesk5]

yo Roy,

It is a 5.8 (Windsor)- The 5.0L (302 CID) V-8 and 5.8L (351 CID) V-8 engines (6007) have the same basic design. The cylinder block for these engines is of special high-grade cast iron, thin-wall construction. The crankshaft (6303) has five main bearings and is precision-cast nodular iron. Pistons (6108) are aluminum alloy, tin plated. Valve rocker arms (6564) are individually bolt-mounted. The valve tappets (6500) are hydraulic. These engines are also equipped with aluminum intake manifold systems.

96 Broncos came with 4 wheel anti-lock brakes (4WABS)

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (ABS) prevents wheel lockup by automatically modulating the brake pressure during an emergency stop. By not locking the wheels, the driver can improve steering control during hard braking and stop the vehicle in the shortest possible distance under most conditions.

The ABS controls both front and rear brakes separately. The brake pedal force required to engage the ABS function may vary with the road surface conditions. A dry surface requires greater force, while a slippery surface requires much less force.

During the ABS operation, the driver will sense a pulsation in the brake pedal, accompanied by a slight up and down movement in the pedal height. In addition, a mechanical noise from the engine compartment may be heard. The pedal effort and pedal feel during normal braking are similar to that of a conventional power brake system.

The ABS consists of the following major components:

• anti-lock hydraulic control unit (2C215)

•anti-lock brake electronic control module (under WS washer/coolant recovery tank on driver side)

•two front brake anti-lock sensors attached to the suspension knuckles. The front brake anti-lock sensor indicators (2C182) are pressed onto the backside of the rotors

•one vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (9E731) atop rear 8.8 Diff

•acceleration sensor attached to the left frame rail under the driver

•main relay located in the trailer relay box in Power Distribution Box on driver side aft of air filter housing.

•pump motor relay in the power distribution box

•Anti-lock hydraulic control unit (HCU) located in the front of the engine compartment on the left frame rail; consists of hydr Pump and motor



The anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors the electromechanical components of the system. Malfunction of the anti-lock brake system will cause the Anti-lock brake electronic control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power assisted braking remains. Malfunctions are indicated by the amber ABS warning light inside the vehicle.

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.

In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. If system is OK, Code 16 will be present.

^^^^ If the AMBER ABS lamp does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.^^^^

Our module blew the microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

==============

REAR DISCS _ I like the TSM kit!

http://www.tsmmfg.com/Resources/2530.pdf

or;

Rear Disc Brake Conversion, Explorer info & pics in a 96

Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15991/58316

"Ok so here are a series of pics off adding rear discs from a ford Explorer to my 8.8 on my bronco. Almost a bolt on job other than planing down the axle ****** and redrilling the rotors. A real worth upgrade, been driving it now for about a year.

You have to remove the axle shaft both for the machining and for removing the old backing plates and installing the new backing plates.

Because I was also doing a gear change from 3.55s to 4.11s and this was my daily driver I went to the junk yard and picked up another 8.8 from a 93 f150

The explorer's with rear disc are all the same, I think these were off of a 2001 and they do have the ebrake installed. Gave me a really positive and firm feel in the brake pedal, well worth the upgrade.

used the backing plates from the ford explorer, they have the emergency brake and calper mount bolted in

Brakes straight and even, doesn't slid around. Even the ABS works when I put in the fuse... I hate abs and pulled the fuse years ago.

the rotors are just a hair over 11.5" So I'd say they are 11.5" rotors. I had some from a 2001 ford f150 but they wouldn't fit under the rims I think they were 13.5" or 12.5".

used two right side flexlines from an explorer

I did try to at first to ude existing e brake cables by warping the cable around the leaver and using a small cable U bolt, but I didn't like that setup so I bought a new set of cables for a 2001 f150 with rear disc and shorten the cables to work for my setup.

Explorer 8.8 diff is narrower and different wheel bolt pattern

Works great been like 3 years now"

---

Rear Conversion, pics in a 95

Source: by allcruisen at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=1398&s=23112

========

3. 32 inch BFGoodrich tires Will be fine for the new 8.8 rear end

4. If i do switch out the whole rear axle assembly, what concerns about brakes and sensors should I address? Save your existing VSS Sensor in case new sensor is damaged or bad. VSS is ref. to as the ABS or DSS (sensor) by many.

VSS Location pic by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/195704

5. If the whole rear axle assembly doesn't happen, what specifically should I buy to replace everything inside the rear differential? Would this work?

See the Workshop Manual for what is in there;

Section 05-02H: Differential, Traction-Lok Limited Slip, 8.8-Inch Ring Gear

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjs52hl.htm

Some have swapped in the Dana 60 to replace the 8.8 Installation in a Dana 60 in a 95

Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=628&s=23277

DANA 60 Installation from '77.5 D60 Full float from Ford F250, rear w/VSS in a 95

Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=628&s=23277

Mark also installed the TSM rear disc calipers with e-brake, pricey, but no moreso than the tcase location

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Roy..,

The Early Broncos  (EB)  '66-'77  had/have a "clunk"  coined "the Bronco clunk"

It is caused by "axle wrap".  Meaning the axle rotates during stop-n-go. Old weak springs compound this.

This causes a "POP" when direction is changed.

EB's are "spring-over-axle" on the rear. This compounds as well.

If the FSB is spring over...,  you might check that B4 spending $$$ on axles &/or a rear pumpkin.