Starting issues

[johnnyreb]

That is a topic open for debate. I for one don't replace them until there is a problem and since the early 90's not seen an injector fail. Never had a ford injector fail.
Countless trucks I have had over 200k on factory injectors. trucks that sat for years, fuel tanks that looked like coral reefs inside. Plenty of fuel pump failures from sitting and never and injector.

On the other hand people claim replacing them 80-150k miles improves performance and fuel mileage. I am sure it could make a difference. I personally don't believe you could measure the difference by seat of the pants feel or even MPG would be small. But that is what they believe and I support them.
With fuel and fuel filters today it is so hard to get any type of contaminants to the injectors it is hard to imagine they will ever plug, so that means electrical or mechanical failure and that is just not common anymore.

In a situation like this thread I can totally see injectors being gummed up with tar and varnish from sitting which is an okay reason to change them. On the other hand just about any fuel system cleaner will clean them right up if you can get it running long enough. that is the easiest thing to clean from injectors.

Thanks Tiha,appreciate it.

 

[BOB MARLIN]

"Do diligence and make the best informed decision you can. Which I guess is why you are here."

Yes. That is absolutely why I am here. To gain knowledge from people that are willing to share it.

I also own a ford 6.0 that I bought new in 2004. So believe me when I tell you that I've had to school myself on repairs before.
Back in 2004 NOBODY knew how to fix the 6.0, not even Ford. So the only thing I had was forums like this one to gain the knowledge I needed to get through all the 6.0 problems. And now I know enough about them to pass my knowledge along.

Now days anyone who still owns a 6.0 is pretty much an expert with them. You kind of have to be.

 

[captsb890]

I've looked through a bunch of posts and it seems to be a somewhat common problem, but the post always end before it is solved.
1990 5.0
It won't start with out starting fluid. Fuel pump runs constantly. Most posts I read pointed to bad caps on the computer, so I replaced the caps.
Fuel pump still doesn't shut off, but it will start if you floor it while turning it over and seems to run just fine once started. So what is the fuel pump looking for to shut off ?. Is it waiting for a pressure reading or is it looking for a time delay ?. I've also read that flooring it clears a flooded issue and allows it to start. It looks to have a new fuel pressure regulator on it so could this symptom be caused by the relay or maybe the ect ?. If the injectors were leaking or stuck wouldn't it run like crap after it started ?. To me, the fuel pump running is a big clue that something is not producing the signal its looking for to shut off, I just don't know where that signal needs to come from.

You could swap the relay's (the pump relay with another in that bunch ) to see if sticking-- if not there us a switch on the rail that should be changed---rail pressure switch

 

[kenrh]

If the fuel pressure regular goes bad pump can put out 100PSI, yes it will flood engine.
(been there, experienced that)

 

[BOB MARLIN]

Ok,
Got the good news , bad news thing.
Good news is that I bit the bullet and bought a new EEC for it. Installed it and the pump now primes then shuts off like it should, and I can reach through the window and turn the key and its stars right up. Yay. Two birds with one stone. But when I went for a test drive it wont even make it up the driveway. It just falls on its face, sputtering popping etc. Went in and got online and came to the conclusion that they must have ordered the wrong computer. I believe I got the one for the C6 trans and not the 4eod that I need. Went back to Auto zone ( I hate Auto zone) they cant figure out how to get the right one. They have the 2 different EEC's listed- one for the "Automatic" and one for the 4eod- with 2 different prices but their part number is the same on both of them. So they just through their hands up. Got my money back , and my old computer (lucky) and went to Orielys and ordered one from them. We'll se what I get this time.
I did notice one thing while swapping EEC's back and forth. When I put my old one back in I noticed that when my fuel pump was running if I floored it the fuel pump would shut off. Lift off the gas and it comes back on.

 

[Tiha]

**** what an adventure.

The company they buy the ECM's from can get you whatever you want. Someone, probably the store manager or assistant manager needs to call them.
During the weekday like this maybe they have a commercial account specialist that would know who to call.

 

[captsb890]

If the fuel pressure regular goes bad pump can put out 100PSI, yes it will flood engine.
(been there, experienced that)

Ok,
Got the good news , bad news thing.
Good news is that I bit the bullet and bought a new EEC for it. Installed it and the pump now primes then shuts off like it should, and I can reach through the window and turn the key and its stars right up. Yay. Two birds with one stone. But when I went for a test drive it wont even make it up the driveway. It just falls on its face, sputtering popping etc. Went in and got online and came to the conclusion that they must have ordered the wrong computer. I believe I got the one for the C6 trans and not the 4eod that I need. Went back to Auto zone ( I hate Auto zone) they cant figure out how to get the right one. They have the 2 different EEC's listed- one for the "Automatic" and one for the 4eod- with 2 different prices but their part number is the same on both of them. So they just through their hands up. Got my money back , and my old computer (lucky) and went to Orielys and ordered one from them. We'll se what I get this time.
I did notice one thing while swapping EEC's back and forth. When I put my old one back in I noticed that when my fuel pump was running if I floored it the fuel pump would shut off. Lift off the gas and it comes back on.

Make sue they have the correct VIN number--the computer is not the correct one

 

[miesk5]

Yo Bib,
Unfortunately, AutoZone should be avoided except for brand name products.
Although relatively inexpensive, I would avoid Cardone reman PCMs.
Consider;
AES Modules @ AES Modules | Rebuilt & Reman Control Modules

ProTech Auto Systems @ Ford Car Computer Repairs for ECU, PCU & TCU
¤
jermil01 wrote, "In the past I've bought an EEC from these guys before. Good service and fast turn around. Plug in your info and you'll quickly find what you're looking for: Price is pretty reasonable.."
1995 Ford Bronco 5.8L V8 Gas ECM/PCM
¤
G7 Computers @ How Does This Work?
Member jermil01 wrote, "I've used G7 in the past..good company and responsive. If your EEC has a faulty capacitor or resistor as is the case with most of them it's usually fixable as long as the board isn't damaged, but they need to have to be able to determine that. A while back I had a spare EEC I was going to send to them to have checked out, before I did, I snapped a pic of the board it had scorch mark. They said not to bother that the board was probably shot.."
gedebohls wrote, " i went with sending my ecu to G7 computers in Canandaigua, NY, the reason i went this way is because i send them my unit, i get my unit checked out 100% and they will then fix as needed. I like this bc I will know for sure if my ECU is or was bad, etc, and I get my ECU back fixed. the cost is $225 plus shipping one way, if nothing is wrong with my ECU i get 100% refund. Once i get my ECU back or get an update from G7 I will update."
Update; "I sent the EEC to be rebuilt by G7 computer and they quickly sent the EEC back saying they replaced a faulty resistor. When the EEC came back I still had the same issues with the bronco , and we spent a lot of time re testing and checking things to only determine that the only possible issue was a bad EEC, so back to G7 Computer. This time they determined a faulty Main processing chip, and stated that the damage was to extensive to replace the main chip, I get it; it is a computer sometimes it is hard to pin point an issue when it is intermittent. My question is; is it just not cost smart for a company like G7 to not want to replace the main chip, or can you just not replace the main chip? So in short G7 sent the EEC back to me and will credit $225 of the $250 saying they get a diagnostic fee of $25, which I also get , "Well sort of get". "
@ A 94 with a Gremlin
○
A long time Ford mechanic wrote, "The main causes of failure is water in the PCM plug or cap failure inside of the PCM. Make sure you have enough Di-Electric Grease in the plug to waterproof it."
○
Ryan M wrote in his "install a chip" article @ Fuel Injection Technical Library » install a chip
"DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE TAPE TO SEAL THE COMPUTER. TOO MUCH TAPE WILL CAUSE THE COMPTUER TO OVERHEAT!" The tape and a piece of foam was to be places around the chip J3 port, but can be applied to the case itself.
○
I recall that someone here that their PCM died due to a bad weatherstrip. No further details were provided.
○
In an old ford truck forum that is now off line. "The water leakage may be due to the PCM connector cover not seating completely and water leaking down from the cowl panel grille (cowl top vent panel) area."
Check Hood Cowl Rubber seal. See Cowl Seal Replacement - ???Gary's Garagemahal by Gary

Broncograveyard.com still has new Bronco-and-F-Series-Truck-Hood-Cowl-Rubber for 78-79, 80-86 & 87-97 as well as :
1983-1992 Ford Ranger and Bronco ll Hood Cowl Seal
1967-1977 Ford Bronco Hood cowl seal with clips
Etc,
@ https://shop.broncograveyard.com/searchprods.asp

If you need to, stop by local Ford dealer and ask for the part number; they should have it from the Vehicle Control Information (VECI).
My 96 5.0 with E4OD and Federal Emissions is:

also included is the Parts List (for the 96 5.0):
NAME/DESCRIPTION ENGINEERING NO. SERVICE NO.
SENSOR ASSY, Catalyst Exhaust Gas Oxygen Monitor- DOWNSTREAM F65F 9G444-CA F65Z 9G444-C
RESERVIOR ASSY, EGR Vacuum F4UE 9E453-CA F4UZ 9E453-C
CONTROL ASSY, EGR Vacuum Regulator FOTE 9J459-A1A FOTZ 9J459-A
SENSOR ASSY, EGR Pressure Valve F48E 9J460-BA, BB F4ZZ 9J460-B
VALVE ASSY, Thermactor Air Control Solenoid Vacuum E7TE 9H465-AA E7TZ 9H465-A
VALVE ASSY, Thermactor Air Control Solenoid Vacuum E7TE 9H465-BA E7TZ 9H465-B
SENSOR ASSY, Exhaust Gas Oxygen - UPSTREAM F68F 9F472-AA F68Z 9F472-A
VALVE ASSY, EGR F27E 9D475-A2B, A4B F2TZ 9D475-A
TUBE ASSY, EGR Valve to Exhaust Manifold F6TE 9D477-ED, EE F6TZ 9D477-E
PUMP ASSY, Thermactor E5TE 9A486-DB E5TZ 9A486-D
VALVE ASSY, Thermactor Check - Hose ****** One End-Press in Tube Other End - DOWNSTREAM E8DZ 9A487-A
VALVE ASSY, Thermactor Check - 3/4-14 Thread One End-Hose ****** One End - UPSTREAM E9VZ 9A487-A
VALVE ASSY, Thermactor Control E9AE 9F491-AA F0AZ 9F491-A
INJECTOR ASSY, Fuel F2TE 9F593-A3A F2TZ 9F593-A
VALVE ASSY, Throttle Air By-Pass F4TE 9F715-AA F4TZ 9F715-A
REGULATOR ASSY, Fuel Charging Pressure F4TE 9C968-BA F4TZ 9C968-B
POTENTIOMETER ASSY, Throttle Position Sensor F6TF 9B989-AA F6TZ 9B989-AA
DISTRIBUTOR ASSY F2TE 12127-AA F2TZ 12127-A
SENSOR ASSY, Mass Airflow F5UF 12B579-BA F5UZ 12B579-BA
SENSOR ASSY, Engine Electronic Control Coolant Temperature F5AF 12A648-AA F5AZ 12A648-A
PROCESSOR AND CALIBRATOR ASSY, Powertrain Control Module - EEC-V - TYPE: ML1-441 - REPROGRAMMABLE F6TF 12A650-PC F6TZ 12A650-PC
SENSOR ASSY, Air Charge Temperature F5AF 12A697-AA F5AZ 12A697-A
●
Also copy the Calibration Label Sticker on driver's door jamb, it too will be needed to purchase the correct PCM.

 

[BOB MARLIN]

The one I ordered this time is a Cardone.
When I ordered the one from the Zone I had the vin number and gave it to them but there was no place on the order form to input the VIN.
When I searched the part number on my original it comes up as Federal emissions but its a California truck. This is another thing that has me concerned.

I also had a picture of the calibration sticker but no one wanted to see it.

 

[miesk5]

I recommend avoiding Auto Zone except for name brand parts.
Try NAPA. HOPEFULLY, you'll have an alert counter person who will pull a catalog out or search on the computer.

Or this is what a yard will present or a decent counterperson.

 

[miesk5]

I recommend avoiding Auto Zone except for name brand parts.
Try NAPA. HOPEFULLY, you'll have an alert counter person who will pull a catalog out or search on the computer.

Or this is what a yard will present or a decent counterperson.View attachment 28310View attachment 28311

View attachment 28309

 

[miesk5]

It's becoming difficult to post attachments here
This is missing from my previous post

 

[highball427]

I've looked through a bunch of posts and it seems to be a somewhat common problem, but the post always end before it is solved.
1990 5.0
It won't start with out starting fluid. Fuel pump runs constantly. Most posts I read pointed to bad caps on the computer, so I replaced the caps.
Fuel pump still doesn't shut off, but it will start if you floor it while turning it over and seems to run just fine once started. So what is the fuel pump looking for to shut off ?. Is it waiting for a pressure reading or is it looking for a time delay ?. I've also read that flooring it clears a flooded issue and allows it to start. It looks to have a new fuel pressure regulator on it so could this symptom be caused by the relay or maybe the ect ?. If the injectors were leaking or stuck wouldn't it run like crap after it started ?. To me, the fuel pump running is a big clue that something is not producing the signal its looking for to shut off, I just don't know where that signal needs to come from.

LOOK AT THE TP VOLTAGE IT SHOULD BE NEAR OR UNDER 1 VOLT AT6 CLOSED THROTTLE

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

 

[BOB MARLIN]

Second EEC seems to have done the trick. Fuel pump primes, then shuts off. Turn the key and it starts right up with no foot on the gas. Drives without stumbling and falling on its face. Even seems to have fixed the somewhat harsh shifting. I'm calling it a win.
Now I can move on to the other things on my very long list. Next up is the ever popular tailgate window.

 

[captsb890]

Second EEC seems to have done the trick. Fuel pump primes, then shuts off. Turn the key and it starts right up with no foot on the gas. Drives without stumbling and falling on its face. Even seems to have fixed the somewhat harsh shifting. I'm calling it a win.
Now I can move on to the other things on my very long list. Next up is the ever popular tailgate window.

Where did you get the computer EEC and did you check the old one out first---if so who did it ? thanks-

 

[Tiha]

Awesome news, thank you for updating.

 

[BOB MARLIN]

The first thing I did was replace all the capacitors on the board. That did nothing. So I ordered a new EEC from auto zone because they were the only ones that could get it the same day. It was a "BSE" computer ( or something like that). None of the numbers on the outside of it matched anything on the original. It just didn't work right. It fixed the stuff that was wrong with the truck but ******* up a few things the were not wrong before. Took it back and went to Orielys and ordered a Cardone brand. It came in with matching numbers on the outside and works just fine.