SPOUT voltage issue.

[Hardsun]

I have a 1990 Bronco 5.0 manual trans.
I have been having a no start condition with the spout connector in, when I remove it, engine starts.
Can anyone tell me what the voltage readings should be from the spout to the TFI/ICM and from spout to EEC?
I just want to make sure my voltage readings are out of range before I buy the EEC.

This is related to my post "Spout in no run"

Thanks all.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Hardsun,
I don't have the voltages, and never saw them tested.

Have you pulled and inspected the EEC?

 

[Hardsun]

I did inspect theEEC, no weird smell, caps look fine, no broken solder joints.
What is interesting, is I thought I would pull codes again, for giggles I put the SPOUT back in, fired right up!?!? Only one code after warm up for the KS I have unplugged and on my tool box so no surprise. Again just ruling out things, checked fuel pressure since it was running psi 35 - 45. No drop after 5 mins EO.
I started it multiple times with SPOUT in, ran fine. Go out this afternoon, back to square one, same issue, turns over, no spark/start????
It's a head scratcher for sure.

 

[miesk5]

Yo H,
Only issue I can think of is corrosion or loose terminals, intermittent connections on SPOUT "plug" or harness connector or along path to EEC. I believe I showed the wiring in previous post.

 

[Hardsun]

Sorry for the big delay in responding, life just happens.

Update, after all the trouble shooting, landed on the EEC, even though there were no visible signs of failure.
Got it in last week, plugged it in and it fired up with spout in.

Now I have an intermittent, I believe, spark failure. I had it prior to the EEC replacement when the vehicle would only run with the spout out.
when I set the timing, with timing light connector on the #1 plug - spout out, the vehicle stumbles and the timing light goes out. This is what makes me think it is a spark issue.
Any suggestion?

 

[miesk5]

Sorry for the big delay in responding, life just happens.

Update, after all the trouble shooting, landed on the EEC, even though there were no visible signs of failure.
Got it in last week, plugged it in and it fired up with spout in.

Now I have an intermittent, I believe, spark failure. I had it prior to the EEC replacement when the vehicle would only run with the spout out.
when I set the timing, with timing light connector on the #1 plug - spout out, the vehicle stumbles and the timing light goes out. This is what makes me think it is a spark issue.
Any suggestion?

Yo Hardsun,
For "misses";


"QUICK Test" is to try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

"Vacuum Leak";
See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/help-with-dtc-codes-and-idle.206824/
Excerpt:
"When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost."
Check EGR Valve, it may be stuck closed with carbon.

another is; The air supply from the SMOG pump is controlled by the air by-pass valve, sometimes called a dump valve. During engine deceleration, the air by-pass valve opens, momentarily diverting the air supply through a silencer and into the atmosphere, thus preventing backfires within the exhaust system when deceleration supplies larger-than-normal amounts of unburned fuel to the exhaust ports. check valve is incorporated in the air inlet side of the air manifolds. Its purpose is to prevent exhaust gases from backing up into the Thermactor system. This valve is especially important in the event of drive belt failure and also during deceleration, when the air by-pass valve is dumping the air supply. The air manifolds and air supply tubes channel the air from the Thermactor air pump into the exhaust ports of each cylinder, thus completing the cycle of the Thermactor system.

 

[Motech]

I have a 1990 Bronco 5.0 manual trans.
I have been having a no start condition with the spout connector in, when I remove it, engine starts.
Can anyone tell me what the voltage readings should be from the spout to the TFI/ICM and from spout to EEC?
I just want to make sure my voltage readings are out of range before I buy the EEC.

This is related to my post "Spout in no run"

Thanks all.

I have a 1990 Bronco 5.0 manual trans.
I have been having a no start condition with the spout connector in, when I remove it, engine starts.
Can anyone tell me what the voltage readings should be from the spout to the TFI/ICM and from spout to EEC?
I just want to make sure my voltage readings are out of range before I buy the EEC.

This is related to my post "Spout in no run"

Thanks all.

Your spark output signal will be a toggling 5 volt square wave. You would measure it with a lamb scope. If you measure it with a voltmeter, when running, it will measure two and a half volts.

But that's all unnecessary. This is a classic ignition pickup coil failure, nothing more or nothing less.

You can buy brand new distributors pretty cheap, but I prefer to replace them myself with a quality unit. It does require distributor removal and disassembly, including a specialty press tool to get the gear off the shaft. In that sense, it's much easier to just replace the distributor.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Motech,
Welcome!
Suggest you introduce yourself and any Ford you own in Introductions section @ https://www.broncozone.com/forums/introductions.18/
Al

 

[Motech]

Yo Motech,
Welcome!
Suggest you introduce yourself and any Ford you own in Introductions section @ https://www.broncozone.com/forums/introductions.18/
Al

Thanks Mod, done.