Shifting problem's

[bronco58]

H

 

[miesk5]

yo KEVIN,

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

===

Not all concerns and conditions with electrical components will set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). Be aware that the components listed may still be the cause. Verify proper function of those components prior to proceeding to the Hydraulic/Mechanical Routine listed

Shift Concerns

Early/Late (Some/All)

Electrical - Mechanical Hydraulic

211 - 311

211 Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, throttle position sensor, transmission fluid temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor, shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2

311 Valves, accumulators, stuck or damaged

Gaskets damaged

Bolts not tightened to specification

could be another fault but need to test for codes to help narrow it down

 

[bronco58]

o

 

[bronco58]

o

 

[bronco58]

4

 

[birddawg]

hey bronco58

I'm a little confused on your description of symptoms, simply is your transmission shifting very hard or slamming into gear as it upshifts?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Try the self test again or get it gone again.

You should have only 3 digit Codes

Ford went from two-digit to three-digit EEC IV Self-Test codes in 1991 to service the increasing number of service codes required to support various government On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) regulations. The phase-in from two-digit to three-digit codes started in the 1991 model year.

A PASS Code is 111

GL!

 

[bronco58]

h

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Unfortunately, none of the Codes can be directly attributed to the shifting issues, exc that 411 can cause Hesitation During Acceleration

Key On Engine Running (KOER)

DTC 411 Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high); "...DTC 411 indicates a dirty/ bad or connector issue w/daIdle Air Control valve (IAC). inspect it for crapola. Some can be cleaned. But our's shouldn't since the TSB says; "...Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years...." in Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."

Source: by miesk5

see the TSB and a fix by NELBUR and more info in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=397

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DTC 412 Cannot control RPM during KOER self-test high RPM check. "...indicates that during the Engine Running Self-Test (KOER), engine rpm could not be controlled within the Self-Test upper limit band. Possible causes: Open or shorted circuit. Throttle linkage binding. Improper idle airflow set. Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid contamination. Items external to Idle Air Control system that could affect engine rpm. Damaged IAC solenoid. Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Turn the key \"OFF\", connect a tachometer. Then start the engine and disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) harness connector. Does the rpm drop or engine stall? If it does, turn the key \"OFF\" and disconnect the IAC. With an Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) check the resistance of the IAC solenoid. It should be between 6.0 and 13.0 ohms. Due to diode in the solenoid, place the DVOM (+) lead on the VPWR pin and the (-) lead on the IAC pin. If it is not within specification, replace the IAC solenoid...\" miesk5 Note; Ford says the range is 7-13 ohms

Source: by Vincent C

Place your electrical meter on "Ohms" and touch the two spades on the IAC connector. The Solenoid has a Diode, so the DVOM Positive (+) probe must be toward the connector tab. You should have between 7 and 13 ohms. If you are outside of this range, replace the IAC

DTC 632 O/D Cancel switch, Overdrive cancel switch did not change state during KOER; is possibly the result of the test being done incorrectly. When you do a KOER test, you need to do a Dynamic Response Check is used to verify operation of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Mass Air Flow (MAF), Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP), and Knock Sensor (KS) during a brief wide open throttle condition. The famed "Goose test".

DTC 116 Engine coolant temp. higher or lower than expected Possible causes: Low coolant level (ECT), Ambient temperature below 10°C (50°F), Faulty harness connector, Faulty sensor

Testing; "..."But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur. Before testing the ECT or any other EFI component perform a self-test, trouble codes received during test can be used as a diagnostic tool along with other indicators. To test an ECT sensor you will need a volt meter. You can test the ECT by back probing the harness while reading the voltage returning to the EEC. Or you can removing the connector completely and test the resistance between the 2 pins on the ECT..." READ MORE

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=28

Location pic; "...distributor cap is to the right and the throttle body is to the left..."

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Distributor/TempSenderPBMOD.jpg

by Bill (subford)

TEMP SENDER is just for the Coolant Temp Gauge.

Source: by DABUCKIN at

ECT Testing, Voltage Chart @ Temperatures

 

[bronco58]

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[bronco58]

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[miesk5]

yo SAM,

You could rent or get a fuel pressure tester from a parts store loan a tool program.

To test the fuel pressure you’ll need this tool. You will need to ***** it onto the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail, it looks like a tire air valve stem. After attaching the fuel pressure tester, run the fuel pump for 10 seconds. Check that the pressure is within specs, and it doesn’t leakdown more than 5PSI within 60 seconds after pump shutdown..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=12

Appears your issue may be heat related as in a bad TFI Hall Effect (Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, RPM)

stalling/dieing or sputtering when hot but runs when it cools off. This can be caused by a faulty TFI and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Problematic TFI's can give off codes 211 (PIP) and 212 (SPOUT).

Remember that the ICM is heat sensitive which warrants additional cooling support. This motivated me to upgrade the entire secondary ignition system to include a Remote Mount Black "CCD" ICM with heatsink which my new MAF WAY1 PCM is looking for. All of my symptoms were subsequently eliminated. The possible intermittent nature of a TFI ICM failure is also expressed when testing. The intermittent TFI can pass with flying colors, except after multiple consecutive tests which allow the ICM to heat up. This leads me to believe that many with chronic ignition problems, especially when warm and under load, actually have an intermittent TFI ICM issue. I were having intermittent ignition symptoms, I would immediately look at the TFI ICM. And, as SigEpBlue points out, complete replacement of worn ignition parts may be in order as well to minimize ignition system stress. Personally, I would only use the Motorcraft TFI ICM and I would ensure that it is the correct part for my application. Many would also recommend replacing the PIP at the same time. In the case of a Distributor Mount ICM, Niehoff recommends to remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out. In summary, the TFI ICM is a sensitive critical electronic ignition component which can be stressed by heat, failing ignition components or crankcase vapors causing intermittent or complete ICM failure."

Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB)

more TFI info LINKs at http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=393

such as:

Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Black, Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD), Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM);

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ign_fender/fender_mounted_module_1.php

 

[bronco58]

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