Set Timing

[MachDream]

I pulled the distributor and put on a new intake now time for it to go back together. Is there someone who knows the steps to get the dist in and timing set or does anyone have a link to a document?

Thanks!

 

[Bully Bob]

Ideally., you would set the eng. to top-dead-center/on compression stroke prior to pulling dizzy...that way, it's on the "sweet-spot" already.

If you've never located "T-D-C" on an eng. .... a good beginner way is to remove plugs so eng. will rotate easy.

Rotate eng. (clockwise fr. the front) by hand & with your thumb/finger over #1 cyl. plug hole., wait 'til you feel air push/puff past your finger. (might need a helper)

Then, move the timing mark right on the "0" mark (should be pretty close already)

Now you're ready to stab the dizzy.....a bit tricky as the rotor needs to point to #1 cyl. prong/plug-wire inside the dizzy cap when it drops completely down. (not just most of the way down)

There's an art to this., & a feel.....you can walk the rotor around several times as you pull the dizzy up & let it drop back down. eventually it will drop on the right spot.

Also., you can have someone wiggle the eng. rotation back & forth as you hold the rotor near the correct position. As the cam gear moves.., it may allow the teeth to mesh & dizzy to drop completely down.

Lightly lock it down & set timing with a light @ about 7 deg. advanced with vac. hose off.

Hope that's clear as mud....??? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[MachDream]

Ideally., you would set the eng. to top-dead-center/on compression stroke prior to pulling dizzy...that way, it's on the "sweet-spot" already.If you've never located "T-D-C" on an eng. .... a good beginner way is to remove plugs so eng. will rotate easy.

Rotate eng. (clockwise fr. the front) by hand & with your thumb/finger over #1 cyl. plug hole., wait 'til you feel air push/puff past your finger. (might need a helper)

Then, move the timing mark right on the "0" mark (should be pretty close already)

Now you're ready to stab the dizzy.....a bit tricky as the rotor needs to point to #1 cyl. prong/plug-wire inside the dizzy cap when it drops completely down. (not just most of the way down)

There's an art to this., & a feel.....you can walk the rotor around several times as you pull the dizzy up & let it drop back down. eventually it will drop on the right spot.

Also., you can have someone wiggle the eng. rotation back & forth as you hold the rotor near the correct position. As the cam gear moves.., it may allow the teeth to mesh & dizzy to drop completely down.

Lightly lock it down & set timing with a light @ about 7 deg. advanced with vac. hose off.

Hope that's clear as mud....??? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Awesome! The only "special" tool i'll need then is just a timing light?

 

[Bully Bob]

To get it right on...a timing light helps.

You can even do it by ear.... i.e. while advancing.., the RPM's will rise....then it will stumble. come back a little 'til it's smooth & it'll be close.

I don't think any 2 rigs run good in the same spot....some at 7deg. , some at 9-10deg. , some at 4deg., etc.

 

[1966 roadster]

To get it right on...a timing light helps.You can even do it by ear.... i.e. while advancing.., the RPM's will rise....then it will stumble. come back a little 'til it's smooth & it'll be close.

I don't think any 2 rigs run good in the same spot....some at 7deg. , some at 9-10deg. , some at 4deg., etc.

MMM. ?????? WHAT? 7-9-10-4 deg so if no two rigs run alike then what do you need a timing light for? cant you just loosen that bolt on the bottom and advance or ****** it accordingly?

just asking because i have NEVER in my life used a timing light. i did see one on the wall. but i dont think that counts.

 

[Bully Bob]

MMM. ?????? WHAT? 7-9-10-4 deg so if no two rigs run alike then what do you need a timing light for? cant you just loosen that bolt on the bottom and advance or ****** it accordingly? just asking because i have NEVER in my life used a timing light. i did see one on the wall. but i dont think that counts.

Here you are again...!! >

When these rigs were built., ALL fuel was equal...now days., it's anybodys guess.

Setting the timing "by-the-book" is a good starting point. Some just run better tweek'd from there..!

If you've done timing B/4.., it's poss. to do it by feel/sound.

 

[1966 roadster]

Here you are again...!! >When these rigs were built., ALL fuel was equal...now days., it's anybodys guess.

Setting the timing "by-the-book" is a good starting point. Some just run better tweek'd from there..!

If you've done timing B/4.., it's poss. to do it by feel/sound.

haha i was not hiding i just did not want to ask you every question i have. BUT since you live here on this web site. here i go.

my book says to "start the engine and rev it to approximately 2000k rpms, point your timing light at the mark and pointer"

this all sounds good on paper. but my bronco wont get past idle!!!

so what i was thinking was get the bronco running at idle and adjust it by hand/ear/feel till i could get the rpms up.

what would you suggest?

 

[Bully Bob]

Naw... that would scare the "begesus" out of anybody...!

Ideally, it would be nice to know where it is NOW (timing)., as that could be good info. so the light would be nice.

After light is hooked up...let it idle & point it at the marks. (helps to put chalk or white-out etc. on the pulley mark).

If it's in the neighborhood of 7deg adv. moving it isn't going to make it able to rev up.

The light also will detect any jumping around on the timing marks. (that was the whole idea of the light)

Here's another trick....get a can of starting fluid...work the throttle by hand while shooting bursts of starting fluid into the carb throat. If it revs up ...good chance the prob. is still in the carb.

BUT.., ware a hat & goggles or you might curl your hair..... b-(

& I've got your "live on this site"...!!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[1966 roadster]

Naw... that would scare the "begesus" out of anybody...!Ideally, it would be nice to know where it is NOW (timing)., as that could be good info. so the light would be nice.

After light is hooked up...let it idle & point it at the marks. (helps to put chalk or white-out etc. on the pulley mark).

If it's in the neighborhood of 7deg adv. moving it isn't going to make it able to rev up.

The light also will detect any jumping around on the timing marks. (that was the whole idea of the light)

Here's another trick....get a can of starting fluid...work the throttle by hand while shooting bursts of starting fluid into the carb throat. If it revs up ...good chance the prob. is still in the carb.

BUT.., ware a hat & goggles or you might curl your hair..... b-(

& I've got your "live on this site"...!!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

hello bully bob. hey you mentioned STARTING FLUID..... well i have tried starting fluid and it dose not fade the old beast. i can spray it into the air cleaner. NOTHING.... into the air horn.... nothing guess i should have mentioned that earlier. whats your thought on that?

im off to wally world my battery is shot even with the charger on 12v engine crank... it will barely turn over, no chance it will start.

i left it on trickle all night "6v high----12vlow"

 

[Bully Bob]

You mean the RPM's didn't even go up (with start. fluid)..?

I'm runn'n out of ideas.....

If while at idle., throttle is added & eng. dies shortly there after....I would have to assume the main jet circuit is plugged.

?????????

 

[1966 roadster]

You mean the RPM's didn't even go up (with start. fluid)..?I'm runn'n out of ideas.....

If while at idle., throttle is added & eng. dies shortly there after....I would have to assume the main jet circuit is plugged.

?????????

well great!!! i just got back with my new battery i installed it and the bronco will still just turn over two or three times before it wont turn over at all. 700 cold cranking amps. 875 cranking amps. i guess i have to take it to the shop. no way the wife will let that happen till x mas is done and paid off.

oh well i have to go back to work tomorrow anyways.

 

[Bully Bob]

Sounds like a starter issue there...

You could pull it & bench test it...(the "China Auto" stores will also test it for FREE FREE FREE.) $-)

 

[1966 roadster]

Sounds like a starter issue there...You could pull it & bench test it...(the "China Auto" stores will also test it for FREE FREE FREE.) $-)

ok my starter should be in around 2. the old starter was dust.... for real so much metal dust in it.. i have to start over now and get the bronco running. im concerned about this jet being clogged. i changed what i think is the main jet( screws in to carb, accepts large flat head ***** driver, has small diameter hole in center) the re-build kit came with a new one which i replaced.

i talked about a rod in the center of the carb with the spring attatched and the bee bee i think its the accelerator pump plunger and spring. this kinda sticks and this concerns me because i dont know if its stuck when i put the carb back together, or if when there is fuel in the bowl it acts as a lubricant and its working properly when its all together? looking at my book it DONT show how to disassemble this "plunger".

once i get the bronco IDLING i will hit it with a timing light and see where its at. but first things first

 

[1966 roadster]

ok my starter should be in around 2. the old starter was dust.... for real so much metal dust in it.. i have to start over now and get the bronco running. im concerned about this jet being clogged. i changed what i think is the main jet( screws in to carb, accepts large flat head ***** driver, has small diameter hole in center) the re-build kit came with a new one which i replaced.i talked about a rod in the center of the carb with the spring attatched and the bee bee i think its the accelerator pump plunger and spring. this kinda sticks and this concerns me because i dont know if its stuck when i put the carb back together, or if when there is fuel in the bowl it acts as a lubricant and its working properly when its all together? looking at my book it DONT show how to disassemble this "plunger".

once i get the bronco IDLING i will hit it with a timing light and see where its at. but first things first

OK so digging through some paper work that came with the bronco I found old carb sheet. this PLUNGER that im talking about is actually the

POWER VALVE ASSY...... THIS IS STICKING COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM???????????

 

[Bully Bob]

"THIS IS STICKING COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM??????????? "

YES.., (I also discovered it's the "power-valve" that you're refering to.)

However it would be nice if that's the only gremlin in the carb.

Sounds like the jets are OK.., it's the path below & thru the carb. that need to be "clear" as well.

The ball-bearings are important also...one of them has a 'lil weight that sits on top of it.

Sounds like you are making progress.... keep reporting.... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> B)

 

[1966 roadster]

"THIS IS STICKING COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM??????????? "
YES.., (I also discovered it's the "power-valve" that you're refering to.)

However it would be nice if that's the only gremlin in the carb.

Sounds like the jets are OK.., it's the path below & thru the carb. that need to be "clear" as well.

The ball-bearings are important also...one of them has a 'lil weight that sits on top of it.

Sounds like you are making progress.... keep reporting.... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> B)

So i sprayed it again with another can of carb cleaner. the power valve assy is still not SMOOTH i suspect this is the problem... MAYBE...

everything is intact meaning the spring and bee bee. in assuming that there is a build up of varnish????? or something in that form making it not rebound correct.

WHAT CAN I USE TO LOOSEN THE POWER VALVE ASSY?????????? it seams as if carb cleaner is not breaking it loose.

CAN I OIL IT?????

SHOULD I SOAK IT IN SOMETHING???????

 

[Bully Bob]

At this point, I might consider stopping by your local carb. repair shop there in S.L.

As I recall., there's a soft plug on top/exterior of carb. Underneath that is a piston that the rod is hooked to.

A shop could pull & repl. that plug....and/or advise you. (prob. not even charge you)

I think it's "air" actuated & may have cruded up the piston over the yrs.

 

[1966 roadster]

At this point, I might consider stopping by your local carb. repair shop there in S.L.

HAHA yeah I was kinda getting to that point. i will keep you up updated thanks

 

[Bully Bob]

"HAHA yeah I was kinda getting to that point. i will keep you up updated thanks"

Best to start a new carb. thread.....this was orig. a timing issue... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />