Rust on the Underside - Need a Plan of Attack

[mcat]

I want to remove as much rust as I can before winter. We use salt on the roads here and it looks like this has taken a toll on the underside. 

I'm concerned about the leaf springs and they are in the worst shape. 

My goal is to 

1- Remove as must rust as possible - keeping in mind that i do not have any tools such as wire brush etc. I'm not afraid to get under neath and do what I can though.

2- Paint with Por15

This will be an ongoing project as I only have one day on the weekend to work on it. Any suggestions as to what I should concentrate on first?

Thanks!

 

[Seabronc]

The best thing to do for that frame is to remove the body and if it is in your budget have it sand blasted and powder coated.  Next is buy the tools to remove the rust by wire brush and grinder, (include safety gear like safety goggles, face splash guard, heavy duty leather gloves, etc.).  Then use a product like "Metal Ready" to prep the surface for POR15, you can't just paint over the rust.  Follow the manufacturers directions for prep.  Get yourself a "Tyvec painting" outfit before using POR15.  Once it is on something like your cloths, it is there for ever, including your skin.  Fortunately it will eventually wear off your skin, but not for a long time.  So suit, hood, face splash guard, rubber gloves, are in order here.  Also keep in mind that once a can of POR15 is opened it starts the curing process and can not be stopped even by resealing the lid, resealing the lid will slow it down but not stop it, so buy it in small cans unless you plan on doing large sections at a time that will use it up. 

I have had some mixed results with POR15, but it could be in the cases where it didn't hold up, that the prep wasn't good enough. 

Good luck,

>-

PS.

Check under your rugs for floor panel rust, front and rear

 

[Bully Bob]

Seabroncs recommendations are spot-on..!!

However, I don't see you having this knowledge or equipment any time soon.

And, from those pics.., it looks better than normal considering....?  Even the leaf spgs. are not that bad.

Several sizes of hand held wire brushes, gloves,  eye protection & LOTS of elbo-grease & time may

be your best "plan-of-attack" :-B

He also mentioned,  on another post,  many months ago.., a product called  "Rust Mortician"..!

This stuff works good..!!  (if it's still available)

 

[mcat]

While I do not have access to all the above listed equipment I can get my hands on a good wire brush and grinder. The safety equipment as well. As long as there is no risk to the parts failing I will just take it a little at a time. 

The body seems to have a lot less rust than the underside but I haven't  pulled up any carpets yet. 

Unfortunately the Bronc will have to live outside (no room in the garage) which means no full scale paint and body work in her future. (not yet anyway)  I just want to maintain her current state as much as possible.  

While the urge is strong to pour my money into how she looks, I am concentrating on how she runs for now and there is enough to keep my busy on that front at least until next spring. :closedeyes:

 

[nelbur]

Your best approach to your springs is to use an old farmers trick, paint them with used engine oil.   The oil will crawl between the leaves and protect and lub them.    Farmers use used oil on disks, plows, and equipment that must set outside.   Do not use new oil as it will not work nearly as well for some unknown reason.

For the frame, where it is "clean rust" i.e. not oily, you can scrape off any flaky rust, and paint POR-15 right over it.   I assume you would use black.   Use gloves.   I am wearing some POR-15 on my hand as we speak.   You might want to buy their "multiple small cans offer" so you can use all you buy as it does harden after being open to the air for too long.   I have had some success at keeping the POR-15 alive for quite awhile by 1. opening it only when I am ready to paint, 2. closing it as soon as I am done painting.   When I close it I remove the paint from the rim, put Saran Wrap between the lid and the can, and displace the air using propane from my torch with the mixing tip removed.   It cures from the moisture in the air so removing the air is key and the Saran Wrap allows one to open the lid the next time.    I know all this sounds like overkill, but the paint is expensive, and it is very useful.   I have even done body work using POR-15 and woven fiberglass to fix rusted out areas, although the technique requires getting down to bare metal if it is to be permanant.  

 

[Rons beast]

Hey Mcat,

All above are great suggestions. Especially the used oil for the springs. ( Used oil contains some acids that act as an etching agent, and carbon that is a good lubricant when in microscopic form.) That works here in Fla. with the humidity and salty air too.

Also take a look at Eastwoods "Rust Convertor and Rust Encapsulator" .  http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html Both products work very well. 

Good Luck

 

[mcat]

Thanks I will post pics of the progress. 

I happen to have a good friend who is a farmer so I will see if he can get some used oil. And I am going to check out the Eastwoods.

I'll post pictures of the progress - slow though it may be