well i had my shade tree mechanic do it.
It shouldn't feel mushy and compress so far. Check the fluid level in the reservoirs.
Not doubting your mechanic's ability, but when putting in a new master cylinder, it must be hand bleed to get all the air out, which is not the easiest job. It has to be done until not a single bubble comes out in the fluid when the cylinder is compressed. The ports to the proportioning valve need to be plugged for that operation. I use the fitting of an old brake line with a pinched over stub of brake line to plug the ports, it works a lot better than the plastic plugs that are supplied with the new master cylinder, (which generally pop out in the process).
Then all the lines need to be completely bled using new fluid starting with the furthest run, ( the right rear ). Then the left rear, right front, left front. The only way you can guarantee that all the air is out is to make sure all the old fluid and air is out. It takes plenty of fluid to do it completely. Having a quart on hand to do it is recommended.
As far as the ticking, rotors shouldn't cause any ticking sound, it might be the brake pads moving. Do you have manual or automatic hubs? It could be a partially engaged hub. You could have someone walk close to the front wheel when you press on the brake to try to isolate the sound.
Good luck,
