Roll Bar Recommendations?

[Hatu]

The 69 Bronco I just got doesn't have a roll bar, it has the full hard top, which is in very good shape as is the interior and everything else, it looks pretty much like it did when it was new. Anyway, I want to add a roll bar with the idea that it can stay when the top is on. Is there a good bar that will do this?

My thoughts are that I'll remove the top and doors during the summer (it gets damn hot here, I'm just a few miles north of Las Vegas NV) and run it with a soft top; then put the top and doors back on during the winter.

Am I missing anything here? Is what I'm thinking of doing a reasonable way to run an early Bronco in the desert?

Thanks for your input and ideas!

Hatu

 

[rdking97]

The 69 Bronco I just got doesn't have a roll bar, it has the full hard top, which is in very good shape as is the interior and everything else, it looks pretty much like it did when it was new. Anyway, I want to add a roll bar with the idea that it can stay when the top is on. Is there a good bar that will do this?

My thoughts are that I'll remove the top and doors during the summer (it gets damn hot here, I'm just a few miles north of Las Vegas NV) and run it with a soft top; then put the top and doors back on during the winter.

Am I missing anything here? Is what I'm thinking of doing a reasonable way to run an early Bronco in the desert?

Thanks for your input and ideas!

Hatu

you can go to www.broncograveyard.com, and search rollbar and they have one for sale for about 275, that will fit your need.

 

[Bully Bob]

"Is there a good bar that will do this?"

--- I don't know of any EB store rollbars that won't do this. ---

I suppose some home-made ones could be a prob.

Nice to have one that clears the glove box., & you can get your foot on the emergency brake pedal.

I can all but guarantee you'll pull & repl. that hardtop 1-2 seasons...at most.

I rarely take my ragtop off (just the doors) in the summer & it's simple to remove.

I sometimes run the Bikini top & doorless....but wear full white "sweats" to keep my left arm & leg from frying.. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

In the winter., if the sun is out...the black ragtop heats up the cab (with the doors on) & rarely need the heater.

 

[Hatu]

"Is there a good bar that will do this?"

--- I don't know of any EB store rollbars that won't do this. ---

I suppose some home-made ones could be a prob.

Nice to have one that clears the glove box., & you can get your foot on the emergency brake pedal.

I can all but guarantee you'll pull & repl. that hardtop 1-2 seasons...at most.

I rarely take my ragtop off (just the doors) in the summer & it's simple to remove.

I sometimes run the Bikini top & doorless....but wear full white "sweats" to keep my left arm & leg from frying.. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

In the winter., if the sun is out...the black ragtop heats up the cab (with the doors on) & rarely need the heater.

After looking at a bunch of the roll bars, it looks like anything like this one with the bar extending to in front of the front seats is going to cause problems with the glove box and parking brake.

My link

While this one wouldn't cause those problems; I wonder if it's strong enough to do much good:

My link

Do you have any experience with either of these types?

Thanks,

Hatu

 

[Bully Bob]

Wellllllll.....,

These are good questions you're bringing up.

A book could be written about rollbars.

Long/short., they're more for looks than safety....being they attach to the floor. This creates a "cookie cutter affect".

For example race trucks attach thru the floor & to the frame.

Having said that., it will protect folks in a small rollover.

Because of legalities, most suppliers call them "Truck-Bars" so as not to assume they're life savers in a rollover.

I'm guessing all the bars built today, clear the glove box.

My emergency brake pedal hits the bar on the release up-swing. However, I can still get my foot on it to set it.

Also., mine is a double bar..., meaning there's a bar across the upper W/S frame...bars on the side front to back.., & one behind the seats/overhead.

Lastly., padding is a must...!! My head will verify that from going down Golher Wash in Death Valley..!!! (10 ft. waterfall) :wacko:

BTW., that red one is a nice set-up.., May be a bit more than you need.... Here again., this is kind of a "taste" thing.

 

[DeVa70Bronco]

I just bought a rollbar from Toms Bronco Parts in Eugene, Oregon (www.tomsbroncoparts.com). They have several different styles that will fit under your hard top, I went with the 8-point (covers the backseat passengers)($499.99 out the door). Does block the glove box a bit but you can still get a hand in, and interferes with the emergency brake but still looks nice. You can buy them full assembled or go my route and buy a kit in prebent pieces this will save you shipping costs and as long as you or someone you know can weld installation is a snap. If not the money you save on shipping you could possibly pay someone to assemble it for you. Whatever you decide I do recommend at the minimum welding steel plates at the base of each bar (a little added protection against punch through in the event of a rollover), because by no means as Bob said are these certified race cages that weld to the frame, but some protection is definately better than no protection.

And if your interested in just a 4- point that mounts behind the front seats I do have my old one i would be willing to part with contact me if your interested.

 

[Hatu]

I just bought a rollbar from Toms Bronco Parts in Eugene, Oregon (www.tomsbroncoparts.com). They have several different styles that will fit under your hard top, I went with the 8-point (covers the backseat passengers)($499.99 out the door). Does block the glove box a bit but you can still get a hand in, and interferes with the emergency brake but still looks nice. You can buy them full assembled or go my route and buy a kit in prebent pieces this will save you shipping costs and as long as you or someone you know can weld installation is a snap. If not the money you save on shipping you could possibly pay someone to assemble it for you. Whatever you decide I do recommend at the minimum welding steel plates at the base of each bar (a little added protection against punch through in the event of a rollover), because by no means as Bob said are these certified race cages that weld to the frame, but some protection is definately better than no protection.

And if your interested in just a 4- point that mounts behind the front seats I do have my old one i would be willing to part with contact me if your interested.

Hmm, I like that un-assembled option, I can weld just fine; that would be a piece of cake to mig. It would also be nice to be able to tac it together in the Bronco in case I want to move or modify anything. I'm leaning toward the 6 point one, but if I decide the 4 point would do, I will give you a holler.

Thanks! Hatu

 

[S_bolt19]

Check out BC Bronco's cage. It mounts to the body mounts which is in turn mounted to the frame. It is also one that doesn't interfere with the glove box. The other thing, as long as you build a cage correct, the right foot plates and correct size ones under the body, it won't cut through your floor boards.

 

[bigbluebronc]

The 69 Bronco I just got doesn't have a roll bar, it has the full hard top, which is in very good shape as is the interior and everything else, it looks pretty much like it did when it was new. Anyway, I want to add a roll bar with the idea that it can stay when the top is on. Is there a good bar that will do this?

My thoughts are that I'll remove the top and doors during the summer (it gets damn hot here, I'm just a few miles north of Las Vegas NV) and run it with a soft top; then put the top and doors back on during the winter.

Am I missing anything here? Is what I'm thinking of doing a reasonable way to run an early Bronco in the desert?

Thanks for your input and ideas!

Hatu

My 2 cents say all cages should be welded to the frame 6 point a must for passengers,plates on top and bottom of body ok this is if you run fast in the desert and climb rocks that could lead too a turn over that would lead too more rolls on the down side of the trail. Your metal should be .120 dom on main hoops and suplemented with .095 hrew for crossmembers and gussets, iron pipe is no good, if ya doit do it well and your gonna need a good mig welder a 120 v 90amp flux welder wont cut it for welding cages and a notcher and a a couple grinders will help and borrow or have access to a real tube bender not a hydralic pipe bender.. I like 1 3/4 tube and 1 5/8

BBB