Rebuilt E4OD

[Dado150]

Morning all, I just had the shop rebuild my 1990 5.8 Bronco trans. After we put it back in it won't shift right. It slams hard to reverse then it shifts to 2nd gear but then in 3rd it seems like a semi in Low gear and revs real high and won't shift to OD & at about 35 mph it's about 3800rpm. It has 041, 033, 077,074 & 065 codes. After clearing then they come right back. It starts great & runs into 2nd gear fine. Trans shop said they bench tested it and something electrical is probly wrong with the Bronco. Hope someone can help,.

Thanks Dale

 

[miesk5]

Yo Dale,

Welcome!

41, In Continuous Memory HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side).

In KOER No HEGO switching detected always lean (right side).

HO2S Failure, POSSIBLE LOCATIONS OF WIRING SHORTS TSB 95-02-11 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may be cut on the lower right engine mount causing improper signals to be sent to the PCM. Damage may be under the electrical tape..."



HO2S Failure Or Fuse \"E\" Inoperative, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Inoperative, MIL On, Inadvertent Self-Test, Speedometer Inoperative & Trailer Battery Charge Relay Inoperative in TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "...the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions....Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes. CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND G101.

Location in Engine Bay pics: G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support-in front of WS washer/Coolant overflow tank;

*** G101 front of fender apron-between starter relay & headlight***

; G200 behind RH kick panel; G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine; Same as Bronco in a 95 F Series

Source: by Ford via subford (Bill K) at

http://s54.photobucket.com/user/subford/library/Electrical/Grounds?sort=4&page=1

If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault: ..." READ MORE @

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/747751

Source: by Ford

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33, EGR valve opening not detected.

See my post,#2 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/24352-89-bronco-302-self-test-codes/

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77, in KOER System failed to recognize brief WOT during Dynamic Response Test (user error).

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74 Brake On/Off switch not actuated during KOER test (user error).

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65 in KOER Overdrive OFF switch was not cycled during KOER test (user error).

....

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by FORD via

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

96 is same as most earlier years especially 90-96, except for:

OBD II in 96;

4WABS (93-96);

RABS (87-92);

Air Bag (94-96);

3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);

R134a in 94-96;

2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;

Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).

96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.

The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV.

Still researching other differences.

Section 07-01A: Transmission, Automatic, E4OD

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj71a24.htm

"DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Diagnosis by Symptom

The Diagnosis by Symptom Charts give the service technician diagnostic information, direction and possible components, using a symptom as a starting point.

The Diagnosis by Symptom Charts are divided into two categories: Electrical Routines, indicated by 200 series numbers, and Hydraulic/Mechanical Routines, indicated by 300 series numbers. The Electrical Routines list the possible electrical components that could have caused or contribute to the symptom described. The Hydraulic/Mechanical Routines list the possible hydraulic or mechanical components that could cause or contribute to the symptom described.

Diagnosis by Symptom Chart Directions

Using the Diagnosis by Symptom Index, select the Symptom/Concern that best describes the condition.

Turn to the Routine indicated in the Diagnosis by Symptom Index.

Always begin diagnosis of a symptom by using the following:

Preliminary Inspections

Verification of Condition

Check the Fluid Level

Perform Other Test Procedures as directed

*** NOTE: Not all concerns and conditions with electrical components will set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). Be aware that the components listed may still be the cause. Verify proper function of those components prior to proceeding to the Hydraulic/Mechanical Routine listed.***

THEN BEGIN with the Electrical Routine if indicated. Follow the reference or action required statements. Always perform the On-Board Diagnostic Tests as required. NEVER SKIP STEPS. Service as required. If the concern is still present after electrical diagnosis, then proceed to the Hydraulic/Mechanical Routine listed.

The Hydraulic/Mechanical Routines list possible hydraulic or mechanical components that could cause the concern. These components are listed in the removal sequence and by most likely cause. You must inspect all components listed to ensure proper repair."

Can you look through the symptoms and match up to your issues? I am using a tablet so it a and can't print, so my brain is swollen because I can't see your symptoms in Reply mode without screwing this reply up.

One thing I need to ask is, does the transmission shift from reverse directly to 2nd gear?

Can test the Transmission Range (TR) Sensor aka MLPS Manual Lever Position Sensor... it is a possibility.

Nagging Neutral Nonsense & Pinpoint Test, Manual Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor. Some of the problems the MLPS can cause are wrong gear starts, TCC hunting, no 4th gear, engine stalling, high or erratic line pressure & a sudden neutral condition; The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS...This sensor is responsible for more malfunctions than any other sensor in the sys- tem, and the kicker is that it seldom stores a code 67 or 634..." by Pete L

Test, Pin-Point in 92-96; from Ford EVTM; "...The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS. Check the resistance of the MLPS: The resistance of the MLPS (pins 30 and 46).." read more

Source: by Ford via http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/paynlessauto/2009-08-28_021637_222222.pdf

 

[miesk5]

Yo Dale,

I ASSUMED YOU HAVE AN E4OD.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

E4OD have 20 pan bolts; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern - Indicator pic by Chris A @



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AOD have 14 pan bolts, see diagram & pic; P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D) - Indicator pic by trigger @

http://rsmg.pbsrc.com/albums/v663/RampageFSJ/a4-1.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip

 

[Seabronc]

I'd suggest taking it back to the shop that did the work.

>-

 

[Dado150]

Yes an E4OD. The shop said they will look at it and run a scan to see what they think.

 

[Dado150]

Yes an E4OD. They only did the rebuild not the install. After telling them the issues they said the codes were not related to the trans. & it's done other electrical issue & felt that bench testing it there shouldn't be an issue. They did say to bring it in an they would scan/ computer test it.

 

[Dado150]

Yes an E4OD. They only did the rebuild not the install. After telling them the issues they said the codes were not related to the trans. & it's done other electrical issue & felt that bench testing it there shouldn't be an issue. They did say to bring it in an they would scan/ computer test it. The shift selector has 1, 2 D & OD button on the dash.

 

[Dado150]

I dont thinkit goes straight to second from reverse. It seems like it starts in first gear. Now that the rain stopped here I'll be going to rescan for errors & attempt to clear then again.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

OK, Good!

Here is harsh reverse only...

Check pressure at line pressure tap. Perform Line Pressure and Stall Speed Tests. Refer to Pressure Chart No. 401 for specification. If high, check the following possible components: main controls, filter assembly and seal.

Main Controls

Bolts not tightened to specification

Retighten bolts to specification.

Gasket damaged

Inspect for damage and replace.

Electronic pressure control solenoid stuck or damaged

Perform Electronic Pressure Control Tests outlined in routine

No. 203. Service as required.

Direct clutch accumulator valve and plunger, engagement control valve, direct clutch accumulator regulator valve, springs — stuck, misassembled, contaminated, damaged

Inspect for damage, contamination. Service as required.

Pump Assembly

Bolts not tightened to specification

Retighten bolts to specification.

Gaskets damaged

Inspect for damage and replace.

Main regulator/booster valve stuck, damaged, misassembled

Inspect for damage. Service as required.

Direct Clutch Assembly

Assembly

Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.

Seals damaged, missing

Inspect direct clutch assembly for damage. Service as required.

Stator support seals damaged

Holes blocked/missing

Check ball damaged

Friction elements damaged or missing

Those are the tests that the shop can do with transmission in Bronco;

Perform line pressure test prior to performing stall speed test. If line pressure is low at stall, do not perform stall speed test or further transmission damage will occur. DO NOT MAINTAIN WIDE-OPEN THROTTLE in any gear range FOR MORE THAN FIVE (5) SECONDS.

This test verifies the line pressure is within specifications.

Read more.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj71a21.htm#extract_1026

..

Stall Speed Test

WARNING: APPLY THE SERVICE AND PARKING BRAKES FIRMLY WHILE PERFORMING EACH STALL TEST.

CAUTION: Perform line pressure test prior to performing stall test. If line pressure is low at stall, do not perform stall test or further transmission damage will occur.

NOTE: The stall test should only be performed with the engine and transmission at normal operating temperatures.

The stall test checks the operation of the following items:

Torque converter one-way clutch

Forward clutch

Low one-way clutch

Reverse clutch

Overdrive one-way clutch

Direct clutch

Engine performance

Read more.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj71a21.htm#extract_1027

...

Air Pressure Tests

A no-drive condition can exist, even with correct transmission fluid pressure, because of inoperative clutches or bands. Refer to the Band/Clutch Application Chart No. 601, following Air Pressure Tests, Test Procedures, to determine the appropriate elements. A clutch concern may be located through a series of checks by substituting air pressure for fluid pressure to determine the location of the malfunction.

Example: When the gearshift selector lever is in a forward gear range ((D), 2, 1) a no-drive condition may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch.

Test Procedures

Drain the transmission fluid. Remove transmission pan.

Remove filter assembly and seal solenoid body and the control assemblies.

The inoperative clutches may be located by applying air pressure into the appropriate clutch port. See the following Air Pressure Test Port Locations diagram for clutch port locations.

Apply air pressure to the appropriate clutch port (see diagram). A dull thud may be heard, or movement felt when a clutch piston is applied. If clutch seals or check ball are leaking a hissing may be heard.

Air Pressure Test Port Locations

Read more.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj71a21.htm#extract_1028

....

Section 07-05: Transmission, Automatic, External Controls

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Inspection and Verification

Visually inspect the following components of brake shift interlock system. Determine if any of the following electrical or mechanical concerns apply:

VISUAL INSPECTION CHART

Mechanical Electrical

Kinked or bound shift lock cable

Blown fuse(s)

Kinked or bound shift cable

Poor connections

Damaged selector linkage

Damaged wiring harness

If the concern(s) remains after the inspection, determine the symptom(s) and proceed to the following symptom charts.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj75005.htm

Read more.

Functional EPC Test..

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj71a20.htm

Read more.

 

[Dado150]

Thanks for all the info. So I took the bronco to the transmissin shop. While enroute I noticed a few things. It really felt like it was in low range. While driving you had to really get on the gas to get it to shift to 3rd & then it would slam you back in the seat engaging & then it would keep at about 25mph but it was pulling about 4000 rpms. The shop called me and said it is "stuck" in low range and it would run about $500 -$2000 for a rebuild!! I have a 1993 transfer case ( I have the whole Bronco) does anyone know if it will swap?

Thanks,

Dale

 

[miesk5]

Yo Dale,

It will swap.

Is this a diy swap?

1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS!

Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at

http://web.archive.org/web/20100923194404/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/electric1356/elec1356.htm

1356 Electric Shift Wiring Diagram in a 93

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/172140

....

1356 Electric Shift Emergency Shifting; "...per one of the other threads someone mentioned that the electric 1356's had a square 3/8" hole in the case so it could be shifted manually if the electrics died..."

Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave)

&

"..I'd thought I'd share some pics for those who may like to know what the t-case 12 volt shift motor does. Or is supposed to do in my case. Just for drill I removed the small motor. You'll only need a 3/8" ratchet wrench and a long 10 mm socket to remove all 6 bolts. Three of them are about 1 1/2" long and goe thru the top right circular head of the motor. The other three bolts are about 3/4" long. One bolts to the bottom flat tang of the motor case itself (ground?) and the other two hold the wire coupler harness in place on the t-case. As I suspected the triangular shaft inside of the t-case was pointing down to indicate 4 High. By merely jiggling the front drive shaft yoke a little bit with one hand, I could very easily move the triangular shaft with my other hand and get it into 2 High..."

EDIT #2;

Can anyone confirm that the triangular shaft is the shaft, shift - part number 7N095 - item number 84 as shown 1356 Electric Shift Parts Break Out Diagram w/nomenclature by Steve

the shift motor on the electric version. The 3/4" round hole that I plugged was where the motor mounted and the shift-selector shaft would be inside...I suppose if you could physically turn the shift shaft manually, without having the motor installed, you could shift from one range to another. I think this would be rather hard due to lack of leverage. Randy Z, Casual Mudder), Rest-in-Peace my friend...."

at

http://broncozone.com/topic/12774-bw1356-manual-shift-conversion/?gopid=96107&do=findComment&comment=96107

....

Only differences were in 89-96 BW1356 rear has a circular ****** while front has a fixed yoke

Inspect the yokes, use the better one.

.

And the conecctor;

1356 Electric Shift Motor Connector, Missing Pins, Bronco & Ford; "...Carefully record wire pin positions. Using a suitable tool, release each sensor wire pin. NOTE: Some harnesses may have a center pin as shown in the sample graphic. If there is a center pin, it must also be transferred. Install wire pins in the replacement motor connector in the same position as in the original motor connector until they snap in place. Note that the sensor and harness wire colors must match. Verify pin placement, then replace red locking tab. This completes wire pin transfer. The white pins are the ones for the speed sensor that need to be transferred..."

Source: by CARDONE®

.

1356 Electric Shift Motor Connector, Missing Pins in a 93; "...You have to remove those three wires from the old t-case motors connector, and put them into the new connector (naturally they have to go in the same places on the new). Just use a dental pick and release the wire from the old connector....then they should just click right into the new connector......like I said just be sure to put them in the same locations as they are in now on the new connector......there are three open holes on the new connector thats where they go.......if you look at it you will see that those three wires can not be removed from the t-case, but if you use a dental pic like I said you can just slide them out of the old connector and then right into the new one (they will just clip right in when you seat the pin all the way in)......there is a total of ten wires that come from the t-case.....seven from the motor, and three from the t-case it self.......and there are seven existing wires on the new connector you/we have.....just a matter of adding the three from the t-case to make ten........look at it close and you will see exactly what I am talking about.

I would go under the truck with the new motor, and just pull the wire from the old connector and then put it right into the new one to avoid any confusion. Start with the one in the center, then match the other two up using the color of the wire next to it for a guide.....should take less than 15min to do the job....

Source: by Streetgang (Steven F)

...

1356 Electric Shift Motor Typical Failures & Prevention; "...Most units fail because of water or mud intrusion. Carefully inspect motor boot or protective coverings. Be sure connector seals can keep water and debris out. Check wiring harness and connector. Replace or repair wiring as necessary. After installation, periodically select 4-wheel drive mode to ensure operation when needed..."

Source: by CARDONE®

...

1356 Electric Shift Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

 

[Dado150]

Just got it home from the shop. I'll give this a look after it stops raining AGAIN. Yes it will be a DIY!

Thanks