rebuilding 88 bronco 351W EFI Portugal

[Jorge Goncalves]

Hello

I am Jorge and I am from Portugal

I am starting a new project starting from a Bronco 351W efi motor e40D gear and Borg Warner transfer case

Here in Portugal and I think in Europe its hard to find some one that knows some thing about this ( not much sold )

About the gear change problem :

in "D" - it starts to move and when accelerating it responds after a while 20m +- it starts to stop like braking and stops moving

in "1" - it happens the same

in "2" - doesn't start to move it look like it is in P

in "R" - it looks it goes OK

I already change gear case Oil and put the recommended one , the old oil it comes very black doesn't look nothing like the new one I put ( it seems that it was not the recommended one )

sorry for my inglish

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

Sorry again /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

please send me also some contacts where I can find parts for this bronco 351W

I need to buy

new exaustion ( independent )

head covers joins

gear box pan seals

gear box filter

ETC

 

[Bronc76]

Some links for you:

http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/catalog/1966_1996_Ford_Bronco-3-1.html

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/t.aspx

http://broncograveyard.com/

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

many thanks for you links >-

about the problem that I have can any one give me some ideas [-o<

 

[Krafty]

it sounds like your transmission needs to be rebuilt. your forward clutches are slipping because of a leak inside the transmission, and now the clutch material has burned off which is why it wont move and has left your transmission fluid black.

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

it sounds like your transmission needs to be rebuilt. your forward clutches are slipping because of a leak inside the transmission, and now the clutch material has burned off which is why it wont move and has left your transmission fluid black.

I was thinkng on that also that in the case of starting on 2º gear car doesnt move , but what is realy strange its when I put in D or 1ª whay it stars to move ok and for one momento to the other it starts to stop like something was braking

its realy hard , rear wells get blocked .....

sorry for so much questions but in Portugal I can not take the car to any specialist there are no one how knows this car

so I am on my one /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

only get help from this forum or some other sites on USA

many thanks in advanse for all the help /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

other solution maybe I can get a rebuilt gear box from USA

do know some one that can suplly this in USA ??

 

[Krafty]

http://monstertrans.com/store/products/E4OD-Transmission-Remanufactured-4X4-4WD.html

 

[miesk5]

yo Jorge

WELCOME!

Are you sure it is E4OD?

E4OD, AOD & C6 Pan Identification & Driver Side pics;

Source: by Kenneth at http://www.technicalvideos.com/identify_my_transmission.phtml

E4OD have 20 pan bolts; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern - pic by Chris A



AOD have 14 pan bolts, see diagram & pic; P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D) - pic by trigger @ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/RampageFSJ/a4-1.jpg

C6 have 17 pan bolts, see diagram & pic; P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern - pic by miesk5

http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/C6ShiftIndicatorpic.JPG

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Auto Parts Companies that will Ship to PORTUGAL;

Rockauto.com; Espnaol @ http://www.rockauto.com/index.php?a=G-autoparts

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http://www.robertsonautosalvage.com/

Since 1969 we have been supplying local businesses quality used automotive parts. We are happy to introduce our secure online inventory ready to be shipped virtually any where in the world. For international orders and freight quotes, please call for rates.

If you do not find your part or if you have questions, please call our sales staff for assistance. Many parts come with a lifetime warranty if purchased through our website. Please refer to the 'Resources' link below for details. Get started now! Just click 'Find your used part' or visit our eBay store.

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http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/lp/bongo.html

We have partnered with Bongo International to provide shipping outside of the United States to anywhere in the world! All you need to do is create a US based address through Bongo International and enter that US address on our checkout page and your order will be delivered to your international address!

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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aag/details?ie=UTF8&isAmazonFulfilled=&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&isCBA=&asin=&seller=A1K56Z3MS7FISU#aag_shipping

I buy my Ford MotorCraft & Genuine Parts through Ford dealers via amazon; saved much $

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

I was now verifing again and its a E40D

it haves the 20 bolts

 

[miesk5]

yo JORGE;

OK, E4OD

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

======

Some possibilities other than a Code;

Delayed Initial Engagement of 10-20 Seconds Due to Converter Excessive Fluid Drainback TSB 90-18-11 for 89-90 Bronco

Delayed Forward Engagement And/Or Heat Stained Forward Clutch Plates After Installing Center Support Service Kit F4TZ-7A130-B TSB 95-11-13 for 89-94 Bronco

Low Transmission Fluid Level And Or Shift And Or Engagement Concerns TSB 97-12-13 for 87-96 Bronco & many others; "...may have low fluid level and/or may have either a shift concern and/or an engagement concern. This may be caused by transmission fluid leaking from the transmission into the transfer case through the transfer case input seal. Replace the transfer case input seal..." read more

No Forward Engagement TSB 94-08-20 for 89-94 Bronco; "...may be caused by an incorrectly installed “New Unitized Plastic Cage” Low One-Way Clutch..."

Vehicle Does Not Move Diagnosis & Service Tips TSB 94-21-14 for 90-95 Bronco, Vans & F Series; "... may be caused by the check ball, located in the rear cooler line converter drainback check valve assembly, sticking..."

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

many thanks for the help

I will tray to test and put here the results

JG

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

OK test done

the results

KOEO

1-11-11-1-67-67

KOER

4 ( motor accelerates by him self to 2000rpm and decrease slowly to 1000rpm again

after I get 1 blink and that when I make ( Brake test, OD on and off, steering 1/2 turn , trotle hallway dawn ) after this it gives like 2 or 3 flashes very fast

after some time 6,7 sec it satarts the codes

44-13-74-44-13-74 and stops

this are my codes

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

after take a look to the codes

67- neutral drive/or gear switch

KOER

44- air control system

13- RPM out of specification DC Motor

74- brake on switch not detected

what can affect my initial problem with automatic gear change ?? :wacko:

what can I do to solve this errors that exists actually :excl:

 

[miesk5]

yo JORGE,

YES DTC 67

E4OD Nagging Neutral Nonsense & Pinpoint Test, Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor and Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

Located on driver's side of transmission

Possible causes: connector is bad/corroded;

Misadjusted linkage

Open or short in harness circuits

Damaged MLP sensor.

"...One of the most-difficult problems to diagnose on a Ford car or truck is a sudden neutral condition while the vehicle is cruising in 4th gear. Now this can have a number of causes, depending on which transmission is in the car or truck, but the cause we are going to discuss here is that #(~! *&A% Manual Lever Position Sensor – that’s right, the old MLPS. This sensor is responsible for more malfunctions than any other sensor in the system, and the kicker is that it seldom stores a code 67 or 634. Actually there is a standing joke in our industry that says, “You got a problem with a Ford, change the MLPS; it fixes everything,” which ain’t that funny because it’s not that far from the truth. Some of the problems the MLPS can cause are wrong gear starts, TCC hunting, no 4th gear, engine stalling, high or erratic line pressure and the problem that this article is about – a sudden neutral condition. Whether the MLPS is attached to an E4OD, AXODE, AODE or CD4E, the operating characteristics are the same. What that means is the MLPS is classified as a step-down resistor. The MLPS is supplied 5 volts from the computer as a reference voltage, and as the shift lever is moved from park toward manual low, the voltage in each gear-shift position will decrease as shown in Figure 1. The MLPS also can be checked for correct resistance, also shown in Figure 1. This way, if the resistance checked good on the bench but the voltage does not check good in the vehicle, you know there must be a wiring or ground problem. I know what you are thinking: You replace the MLPS on every job you do, so why should you check the resistance on a new part? Well, that’s fine, but one thing has become very clear lately: NEW DOES NOT MEAN GOOD! Now, let’s get to the meat of the problem. As you can see in Figure 1, the voltage in the drive/overdrive position can be 1.88 to 2.30 volts. The O.D. Cancel button, on those vehicles equipped with one, has no effect on the voltage seen in the drive position, nor does it matter whether the vehicle has a gas or diesel engine. This would be the voltage seen in the D or D position if it were available on the scan-tool screen in the data mode. Unfortunately, this information is not always available, and this “glitch” may occur faster than the scan-tool’s update capability so the voltage jump would be missed. Therefore, a digital multimeter must be used to monitor this voltage. This is of the utmost importance in diagnosing the sudden-neutral condition. This voltage should be monitored when the neutral condition occurs by placing the multimeter’s positive lead to computer terminal 30 if it is an EEC-IV system, as illustrated in Figure 2, or to terminal 64 if it is an EEC-V system. This wire is light blue/yellow on all applications except vehicles with the CD4E. On these the signal wire is red/black. Now, here is where this gets a little involved. The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS. The reason is that the ground circuit for the MLPS can be shared by as many as FIVE other sensors, as seen in the wiring diagram in Figure 2. This means that there are factory splices in this ground circuit. If you check this ground at computer terminal 46 for the EEC- IV or computer terminal 91 for the EEC-V, the ground may check good but could be bad at the MLPS if there is a problem on the MLPS side of the splice, as also can be seen in the wiring diagram in Figure 2. The ground-circuit wire for 1989-90 F- and E-series trucks is black/white; all other vehicles use a gray/red ground wire except for CD4E applications, on which the ground wire is black/blue. Once the multimeter is connected to these circuits, as seen in Figure 3, place the meter where it can be seen while driving. When the transmission suddenly neutrals, be sure to have someone observe the multimeter, or use the meter’s MIN/MAX feature to record the highest and lowest voltage readings that occurred in the circuit. If the voltage jumps toward 3 volts as shown in Figure 3, and at that very moment the transmission neutrals, either the MLPS is faulty or the MLPS ground circuit is poor. Under normal conditions, this voltage reading SHOULD NOT CHANGE! When the voltage jumps toward 3 volts, this indicates a neutral-shift- lever position to the processor. This confuses the computer’s logic system, and therefore the computer is unable to fire the shift solenoids correctly (I think), and – BAM – you have a sudden-neutral condition. Why does the voltage jump because of a poor ground? The poorer the ground, the higher the resistance will be in that ground circuit. The higher resistance will cause the voltage in the overdrive or drive position to rise toward the 5-volt reference voltage, much like putting a bend in a garden hose would raise the pressure in the hose behind the bend. Ground- circuit integrity can be verified by placing the positive multimeter lead to the MLPS ground terminal at the MLPS and the negative multimeter lead to the negative battery post, as seen in Figure 4. With the multimeter set to DC volts and the engine running, the maximum voltage should be 0.1 volt. If more than 0.1 volt is seen on this ground circuit, it is NOT a good ground. In order to correct this condition, cut the ground wire close to the MLPS, attach it to a known good ground and recheck as previously described. Two things must be remembered here. One is that the return electricity will seek the path of least resistance. This path MUST be the ground circuit, NOT your multimeter. That’s why you should see a maximum of 0.1 volt on any 5-volt-reference ground circuit; 0.3 is acceptable on a 12-volt-reference voltage supply. The second thing to remember is that most electrical- fault phone calls I receive on the ATSG helpline are ground-related problems, so be sure to use the voltage-drop method of checking grounds as described. It may help to prevent you from falling into this trap..." See Diagrams & instructions @ http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/magazines/1998-10/Shift%20Pointers/index.html

DTC 67 Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) Circuit Open; "...In some cases all of us at one time or another have had to "jiggle' the column shifter to get the vehicle to start because over time things losen up from DD useage.....in the Haynes Manual transmission section and www.broncolinks.com there's a diagram referring to "Point A" which is the column shift linkage and the transmission tab. A sure way to correct the "jiggling" is to go underneath the BKO on the drivers side and LOSEN the "nut" on column shift linkage and tranny tab JUST ENOUGH to click the tranny tab all the way back until it stops then 2 clicks forward and tighten the "nut".....now the column shift linkage and transmission are in sync when you go thru the grears, assuming the steering column is in resonable condition this should help correct that problem.......TOO MANY TIMES THE NSS IS DEEMED THE CULPRIT for none start when it isn't so this is a simple check to make sure. There is also another PRNDDL adjustment, but you need to remove the black plastic collar on the steering wheel, this is usually done when an actuator breaks and using pliers drive the rod downward with key on to start.....there is usually a white cable that wraps around and attached to a small mm ***** IIRC that when lossened a bit it allows you to adjust the "needle" that registers on each letter of the PRNDDL..be careful because it's attached with a very fine wire loop and easily broken. The "upper ignition actuator" is another culprit because they're made of cheap *** metal.....and a PITA job to do..."

Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean

Connector Pin Diagram by SeattleBronco

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/863652

Click diagram to enlarge if needed

Pinpoint Test, Bronco; "... Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position). Note, MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case. MLPS adjustment. Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts. To check MLPS: 1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal). 2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return). 3. Set meter to ohms. 4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below. Manuel lever position Meter should read 3769 to 4608 ohms. R 1304 to 1593 ohms.

Source: by miesk5

Connector Re-Pining; "...The new style Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor comes with a matching vehicle harness connector. The problem is that you have to remove the pins and their wires from the old vehicle harness connector. What ever you do don't pull all the pins out at the same time because you will never figure out were they go. Easiest thing to do is remove one pin at a time and re-install it into the new connector..."

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

 

[miesk5]

yo JORGE,

The rest;

DTC 44 (KOER); Right Thermactor Inoperative; "...I had a similar issue that turned out to be the vacuum line to the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve. No CEL, just a code; 1. First check that the two vacuum lines are connected to the Vacuum Reservoir (coffee can) and the resevoir is in good repair with no leaks on the bottom. Frequently the can leaks or the vacuum lines are accidentally knocked off. Check the vacuum hose to the bottom of the Bypass Valve. Check the vacuum hose to the Diverter Valve. Check the vacuum hoses to the TAB/TAD Solenoids. Then check your TAB/TAD Solenoids. These are common easy to miss problems. Once these are ruled out all that is left is: Thermactor Air Supply Hoses. One-way Check Valves. Main TAB/TAD Valves..."

Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)

see info LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416'>http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416'>http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416

such as for;

Vacuum Reservoir (looks like a coffee can)

Location in Engine Bay pic in a 89 by Booba5185 http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/booba5/overhead-2.jpg

see "cannister"

see info LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=924

TAB\TAD Solenoids (next to Coil on driver's side of intake manifold) http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/booba5/Accolor.jpg

see info LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416

TAB Valve http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/booba5/TABColor.jpg passenger side near smog pump

see info LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416

EGR Valve Position (EVP) on top of EGR Valve, on passenger side of engine, front http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/booba5/EGRcolor.jpg

see info LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=414

EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR); also called EGR Vacuum Solenoid, near coil & TAB\TAD Solenoids http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/booba5/EGRcolor2.jpg

see info LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=911

==========

13 Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check.

PCM could not lower idle speed below normal idle during KOER low rpm idle check.

Suspect problems in Idle Air Control (IAC); also called, Idle Air Bypass (IAB), Idle Speed Control (ISC), Throttle Bypass Air, Idle Bypass, Inlet Air Controller, Inlet Air Bypass, Intake Air Bypass, Intake Air Control

DTC 13 Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test, low RPM & Possible Causes; "...vacuum leak, use garden hose section to listen for leak noise; TB base idle off- Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; air bypass valve dirty or bad..."

Source: by miesk5

see info LINKS in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=397

==========

74 ®: BOO (Brake on/off) action not observed during self test test. IGNORE

=======

you should have an exact vac diagram as shown in the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal;

Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.

On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel;

Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."

Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).

Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.

Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window

Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com

http://www.motorcraftservice.com

Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. MIESK5 NOTE; Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc.... where applicable; (combined w/ Steve83's info, thnx) BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE

"...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/910741

click Next for more...

Overview, Parts Break-Out Diagram & Testing; "...First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years: Idle Air Bypass, Idle Air Control, Idle Speed Control, Throttle Bypass Air, Idle Bypass, Inlet Air Controller, Inlet Air Bypass, Intake Air Bypass, Intake Air Control; This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection. The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39

 

[Jorge Goncalves]

many thanks Miesk5

thants a big job I have here , I will do my best to test all

I will need some help from you about some of the names of parts you use

current English its ok but technical English we don't learn at school .

just for you to know how difficult its for me some times

a lot of times I read " manifold " , so I have to look what is that ? in a dictionary it doesn't came , I take 1 hour to know what is a manifold but now I know

just for you to know , we cal it "admissão"

One question , from this codes , do you think that some of this is the responsable for the problem on "trany" ( also new word for me :-" )

if so , wich one ? I will attack this one first h34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

thanks

JG

 

[miesk5]

yo JORGE,

I capice

do DTC 67 first

 

[ruddy]

just came across this post as I myself am just starting a 85 Bronco II restoration in Portugal.

great information guys, I just hope my transmission works .