yo D,
It is a job that needs correct settings and practice on yard sections; see if you can find a Bronco or truck in yard and obtain the section; practice on it at home after cutting it up.
MIG Welder, Lincoln Electric, Setting for Body Panels pic; "this is the perfect setting for sheet metal work---with 35 CFM of Ar/CO2; he shows slightly less than 2 and on E in the pic..."
Source: by mickaila
I had a set of notes on other tools needed but it is lost on our old PC;
one to consider using is a flanger tool
Eastwood Panel Flanger
http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Panel-Flanger-Flanging-Tool/dp/B003IWREWY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VW2QDAHXXYCDZBBHXHW
How to Install a Quarter Panel Patch (Chevy Malibu, but gives some info on template, etc.)
https://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=A0LEVr0vd5lUChYAvIcPxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTBsa3ZzMnBvBHNlYwNzYwRjb2xvA2JmMQR2dGlkAw--?p=how+to+install+a+quarter+panel+patch+panel&tnr=21&vid=FC93A9452EB95BAB94F7FC93A9452EB95BAB94F7&l=569&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts4.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DUN.607998113447149923%26pid%3D15.1&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dt1ZsNhz8oV4&sigr=11b6mbqk4&tt=b&***=How+to+Install+a+Quarter+Panel+Patch&sigt=11416vlh4&back=https%3A%2F%2Fsearch.yahoo.com%2Fyhs%2Fsearch%3Fp%3Dhow%2Bto%2Binstall%2Ba%2Bquarter%2Bpanel%2Bpatch%2Bpanel%26ei%3DUTF-8%26type%3Dxx.11.w81.dsp.18-01.us.avg._._%26rs%3D0%26param1%3DrVHJbtwwDP2VXqybDW2W7IMOs9hFgKJImklytiTKcRsvlTzT9O9LT9r02kMBgXyiyEfyyQ3eZNqKUqtGszZX7V7m8ih2ed02h5wL2bRSHyhXu0x74g2TVDKllKwopcQns3v8SF66qTcwkRHZZKi4UgKEqoTUntfe0ZKxYKUPFZUi17oulWcguapCBbYSNQBYbutaK-d8YNYLy0qyIFvqAvTnLnqyRBMiuRhWFayoC13X5HCOEab1tuvh4csn87yuSya6jAc8488EXXTPRXfpCzePGFowL6H_85CW10wEN_hM-IyXev9PKmDiMeNqvJb9t2WRcRMRKWFC7BMiVBahm6-dcI3Votki4_J7ZrVE9CFuFQg4ZTKnKhcUp9wuqAbTaHiFGRfM-CveVnxleVcYI6l_o00dCul9WhB_R3SH7ytgG3vbTfCC_h7cOsw4qsUzDpC-leQe4gXizdGc9jw_fT7lT21DORkWo0XBNLYWouAlmZN5GiY__0gfMEasuWmIxY9lBSUOzCmegXxNb-AX0%26param2%3Dbrowser_search_provider%26param3%3Dxx.11.w81.dsp.18-01.us.avg._._%26hsimp%3Dyhs-fh_lsonsw%26hspart%3Davg&sigb=1o35ca6c0&hspart=avg&hsimp=yhs-fh_lsonsw
Another article @
http://secondchancegarage.com/public/718.cfm
Quarter Panel Replacement w/adhesive on an 86 by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=19605
Quarter Panel Section Replacement w/Ford part on a 94 by R94BroncoXLT (Ryan) at
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4853&s=21778
Wheel Well Repair & Patch Fabrication with Welding PICs in a 96
Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15991/55650
Wheel Arch Fabrication, Fiberglass in an 86 (left click mouse & drag over to view narrative)
Source: by Matt J at TheBronco.com via
http://classic-web.archive.org/web/20020813205037/http://www.thebronco.com/projects/pr0201.html
Matt gives good info on body putty and installation;
I'll insert most of Matt's 1/4 Panel Narrative here in case the archives can't retrieve the URL again (it has been lost twice so far, but I was able to get it back since I had saved the URL in my site)
"Fiberglass Repair Panel
The goal of this project is to find a permanent, yet cost effective, means to remove the typical Ford rust over the rear wheel well arch while maintaining the factory 80-86 look. A successful solution was found using fiberglass and no special tools. The final results exceeded my expectations.
Author: Matt Jones
Date: April 26, 2002
Part 1 - The Mold (
http://replay.web.archive.org/200503...ts/pr0201.html)
Objective: to create a negative image if an existing clean wheel arch to be used for creating a fiberglass panel.
Plaster of Paris
Roll of 2" wide mesh drywall tape (not paper tape)
Vaseline
A suitable template of the repair area
Scissors
Mixing bucket & mixer
This is the most critical part of the project, yet done correctly will yield great results. An existing wheel arch must be obtained. I used a steel repair panel that I had planned on installing. (I chose not to use the steel panel because of the complexity of the project for someone without very good welding skills.) In all likelihood you don't have a repair panel sitting around. A friend's truck of the same style in good condition will also do. This part will be referred to the donor plate.
If the donor plate is another truck, remove all trim (if any) around the wheel arch.
Using Vaseline, apply a thin coat the area of the arch. Coat a few inches outward of the wheel well area to be used. Try to apply the Vaseline in a uniform condition. Smooth out thick spots or lines as best as possible.
Cut a variety of sections of the drywall tape. Make some short pieces and long pieces (4" - 12"). Cut plenty!
Mix the Plaster of Paris according to the directions on the box. Make sure you have a smooth uniform consistency. Note the work time on the box. This is how long you will have to create the mold. Apply a thin coat over the donor plate. Apply more plaster of paris to thicken the mold. As the mold over the donor plate thickens, add pieces of drywall tape randomly in the plaster. This will strengthen the mold helping it to remain in one piece during removal. Make the mold as think as possible while adding more drywall tape. Keep the edges thick as well, not just the center. Do not forget to cover the lower lip of the arch. It doesn't have to look pretty. Allow the plaster to sit up over night, or as long as suggested by the directions.
http://replay.web.archive.org/200503...pplication.jpg
Carefully remove the mold from the donor plate. Try to remove it in one piece. Supporting the heaviest areas are best. It may be hard to budge at first, but once one edge comes free from the Vaseline, the rest will tend pop off.
Lay the donor plate down on your work area with the clean side up. Shim the mold underneath so that it is level. Any rocking will allow the plaster to crack. Your mold is complete!
http://replay.web.archive.org/200503...pplication.jpg
similar plaster application for a fiberglass door repair done later - sorry no wheel arch application pic available
Part 2 - The Repair Panel
Objective: to create an identical fiberglass copy of the donor plate using the negative mold.
Roll of 2" wide fiberglass cloth (fine woven).
Fiberglass Epoxy Resin and Harder
Plastic gloves
Vaseline
Mixing bucket & mixer
Fiberglass Mat (optional)
Clean the mold of any plaster debris as best as possible. It is not necessary to remove any remaining Vaseline.
Fully coat the interior of the mold with a thin layer Vaseline. Although there may be Vaseline already on the mold, make sure there are no dry spots. Keep the layer as smooth and thin as possible.
Cut many pieces of the fiberglass tape of various lengths from 4" to 15" or more. If working alone, make sure to cut a lot. You probably will need more than you think. It will get messy later, so it also helps to have a friend with clean hands cut extras lengths for you as you need them.
Mix up some Epoxy according to the directions. Check to make sure you are within the suggested temperature or humidity requirements of the epoxy. Use a disposable bucket or bowl. Make sure the ratio of Resin to Hardener is correct. Again, it helps to have a friend around who can mix up more epoxy if needed, though it is not necessary.
With the gloves on, dip the fiberglass tape into the epoxy one piece at a time. Start with medium to longer lengths. The first layer should have plenty of epoxy. Lay out the fiberglass into the mold. Smooth out air bubbles with your fingers. Do not let the fiberglass fold or wrinkle once on the mold. Apply more pieces of the tape until the entire mold is covered. It is good to have overlaps. Use shorter lengths where needed around the bend. Make sure to add tape up the inner lip of the arch. Use shorter lengths and add additional layers of tape in a diagonal fashion. Three, four, or more layers overall should be sufficient. Add extra epoxy if desired.
Optional: If you have some cut pieces of fiberglass mat, add them now. Mat will help to thicken and straighten the new panel from flex, but it is not necessary. Many layers of the woven fiberglass tape will also work fine.
Allow the epoxy to fully harden overnight, or longer if needed. Do not even attempt to do anything if the epoxy is still tacky.
http://replay.web.archive.org/200502...fiberglass.jpg
Carefully remove the new fiberglass panel from the mold. It may be stuck to a few areas that did not get Vaseline. Cracking the mold may be required if the fiberglass panel is really stuck.
http://replay.web.archive.org/200502...iberglass2.jpg
Thoroughly clean off all the Vaseline from the new fiberglass panel. Any voids on the surface can be filled or smoothed out later. The fiberglass repair panel is complete!
http://replay.web.archive.org/200502...201/cutout.jpg
Part 3 - Installation
Epoxy or strong waterproof adhesive
Metal Snips
Rivets or other fastening device
Filler body putty
Sander
Hold up the new fiberglass panel to the rusty wheel arch that it will be replacing. Determine where and how much of the old wheel arch to cut out. Keep in mind that you will need at least an inch or more overlap of the fiberglass panel for bonding. I chose to cut the quarter panel behind the chrome XLT style trim. This way 90% of the seam would be covered by the trim when reinstalled.
Remove any trim if needed.
Cut out the rust! Note: Do only one side at a time. You will need the opposing side (or another truck) to help line up the panel later. Wherever possible, cut back to clean, rust free metal.
Test fit the fiberglass panel by sliding it up behind the quarter panel. It may be necessary to cut back some of the inner wheel arch if not already done. Trim the fiberglass panel as needed. Note: When test fitting, make sure that there is no valley created between the top of the fiberglass panel and the inside of the remaining quarter panel. A valley would create a water holding area defeating the purpose of removing the rust! If a valley cannot be avoided, trim as best as possible. It can be filled later.
http://replay.web.archive.org/200502...r0201/fit.jpgA good reference point for correctly lining up the fiberglass panel is the distance between the top of the arch and the top of the bedside. Use another truck or the opposite side for comparison. Try to get the seams as even and smooth as possible.
Once an ideal fit has been found, hold the panel in place and dill a few holes for rivets through the quarter to the fiberglass panel.
Mix up some epoxy (or other strong bonding adhesive). Apply the epoxy to the overlapping areas of the fiberglass panel and the inner quarter. If you have a valley or separation, a thin layer of saturated fiberglass mat can be helpful to fill any voids behind the quarter panel providing better adhesion.
Slide the panel into the quarter and line up the holes drilled earlier. Rivet the fiberglass panel in place using these hole. Be sure you (or someone else) have clean hands before loading the rivet gun. A drop of epoxy in the rivet gun will render it useless after it hardens.
Wipe away any drips from the new fiberglass panel. Check again before the epoxy gets tacky and wipe away drips. It is not necessary to watch it dry and get all the drips, but the more you get, the happier you will be later when it comes to finishing. Allow the epoxy or other adhesive to fully harden overnight.
Once fully dry, check for any interior voids or valleys along the seam. If necessary add more epoxy, adhesive, or a caulk sealer to fill as needed.
Depending on your preference, grind smooth or drill out and fill the rivets. Add a thin layer of body filler to the seams and allow to dry. Sand and fill as needed to feather in the seams. Sand smooth any remaining drips. Also fill any voids along the surface of the fiberglass panel. If desired, a thin layer of body filler can be applied to the entire panel to properly account for the slight thickness difference at the seams.
http://replay.web.archive.org/200502...r0201/sand.jpg
Finish and paint as desired. Done! You have successfully evicted the rust with a fiberglass replacement that can't rust!"
http://replay.web.archive.org/200502...201/finish.jpg
Conclusion
The results were outstanding. I am very pleased with how much the home made fiberglass fix looks like the factory original. After almost two years, the panel held up very well. Only a slight separation and discoloration was noted on the lower 2 inches of the seam in the front. Looking back, I think it would have been best to sand and clean the edges of the inner quarter panel along the overlap that meet the fiberglass.
This procedure of molding a fiberglass panel has many other applications. I have since replaced the underside of both doors with fiberglass..."
---
Also consider; Eastwood No-Weld Panel Repair Kit
http://www.eastwood.com/panel-repair-eastwood-s-no-weld-panel-repair-kit
"...Your Eastwood No-weld Panel Kit Contains the following items.
• 5/8" Panel Flanger
• 1 Dimpling Pliers
• 1 Compression Pliers
• 20 1/8" Blind Holders
• 3 Side Grips
•1 Panel Adhesive with caulk gun adapter (fits any standard caulk gun.)
STEP 1: Remove all paint from damaged area to expose bare metal. Keep removing paint to expose 1-2" of corrosion-free metal around damage, using our 5" stripping disc (Item-no #31095) and mandrel (Item-no #13064) or "DA" sander with 180 grit paper. Scribe cut lines at least 2" from damage or near panel edges or parting lines.
TECH TIP: Cut lines can also be made under wide side molding or trim, if available.
STEP 2: Feather paint 2-3" around cut lines for later blending. Cut out on scribe lines using our Drill Nibbler or Pneumatic Nibbler. A hand nibbler or shear can be used, but will be a little more difficult.
STEP 3: Begin using the panel flanger to neatly and accurately ****** around the opening of the cutout section. Adjust the vise grip to produce a deep enough ****** for a flush repair. Check ****** with a piece of scrap metal of the same gauge to make sure the ****** is correct and both pieces form a level surface.
STEP 4:Layout the dimensions of your cutout area on a piece of cardboard, cut to exact shape and transfer to you patch panel, measuring from the outside of your ******. Cut to shape and check for correct fit, using a straight edge, as shown. Adjust patch panel by carefully trimming to fit level and flush all around ****** area.
NOTE: Patch panel should be same gauge as original panel.
STEP 5:Now layout the rivet pattern on patch panel, keeping rivet holes centered in overlap area: this kit is setup to utilize #4 flush rivets. You should start the rivet layout at a corner to assure it lays flat when completed, space rivets about 3/4" to 1" apart. This will depend on the area of the patch. If the patch is only 5" long by 3" high, then use a spacing of 3/4"; if the patch is larger, then use the 1" spacing. You will have to use your judgment on rivet placement when nearing edges or opposite corners.
TECH TIP: Use only aluminum rivets and patch panels on aluminum, and steel rivets and patch panels on steel.
(Item-no #31020) No. 4 Aluminum countersunk rivets box of 500
(Item-no #31019) No. 4 Steel countersunk rivets box of 500
STEP 6:After the rivet pattern is laid out accurately, clamp the patch panel in place using supplied edge clamps and c-clamps if needed. Make sure to check for flush (level) positioning of panels using the straight edge as before. Start drilling the rivet holes, with a 1/8" bit, beginning in a corner, using supplied blind holders in drilled holes to help secure panel. Once holes are drilled, remove clamps and patch panels and deburr all holes; this will assure a flush repair in the end.
STEP 7:Use the dimpling pliers to countersink (dimple) all holes in both the patch panel and also the original. If you're not familiar with dimpling pliers, drill a few 1/8" holes on a scrap piece and practice to get the feel. After dimpling holes in small panels, you may have to straighten the edges. This can be done with a hammer and dolly in the original panel, and a hammer and anvil on the patch panel.
STEP 8:Once all the holes are dimpled, install patch panel using the blind holders and test fit. The panel should be flush with the surrounding area and follow any contours on the original panel. If the panel does not fit flush, the edges could be deformed, or the original panel holes may not be correctly dimpled. Straighten the edges as mentioned above or increase the depth of the dimpling tool, and reform lower or original panel dimples.
IMPORTANT NOTE: THE SUPPLIED PANEL ADHESIVE HAS ONLY 30 MINUTES WORKING TIME AND THE MIXING TIP IS NOT REUSABLE.
STEP 9:Remove the blind holders and clean flanged area on both panels with
PRE(Item-no #10041Z) or a quality lacquer thinner, wipe panels with clean cloth or paper towels to completely dry. Remove cap from two part panel adhesive tube and install mixing tip, slide adhesive tube into clear caulk gun adapter, and install blue adapter onto caulk gun plunger. The panel adhesive system utilizes a conventional caulk gun.
STEP 10: Squeeze a small amount onto a scrap piece of cardboard and check for an even mix, which should be a dark gray color without streaks of white.
STEP 11:Apply adhesive onto original panel along center of rivet line in a 1/4" bead, as shown here.
STEP 12:Install patch panel using the blind holders in every hole, make sure panel is flush by using a straight edge. Adhesive will be squeezed out along ****** area. This can be smoothed with a body filler spreader after rivets are set. Remove all the blind holders one at a time, replacing it with a rivet. Soak the blind holders in thinner before adhesive has a chance to set up, failure to do this will render them inoperable. Begin riveting (using #4 flush rivets) at a corner or radius first to keep panel flush. Continue installing rivets working evenly from the start point until all rivets are set.
Now use a spreader to smooth the adhesive: this is where the corrosion protection takes place as the entire ****** area and seam are protected with the adhesive on both sides of repair.
FINAL STEP:Let the repair sit at least 4 hours for the adhesive to set up before sanding level. After set up time, sand just as you would conventional filler.
ADHESIVE SHOULD CURE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING FILLERS, PRIMERS OR TOPCOATS. Sand area smooth and apply a filler if needed to produce a flush and professional repair. Use our Self-Etch Primer (Item-no #16014Z) on the repaired area and finish as you would any spot repair.
TECH TIP: Spray backside of patch panels with cold galvanizing compound (Item-no #16006Z Aerosol) to protect from corrosion.
SMC and fiberglass can be bonded with the use of the panel adhesive alone.
Accessories
Eastwood Fast Etch (Item-no #19418ZP) 1 gallon
Our 2 1/2" flanger will speed the job on larger repairs (Item-no #31090)
Plastic Filler Mixing Board/Spreader (Item-no #31013)
Slick Sand (Item-no #31108ZP) 1 quart ..."
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