problem starting

[BDB]

Just wondering if any body has a clue as to what is going on with my truck, It started doing this a couple days ago. It runs great no problems at all, then last week it just decided to not start, would turn over and everything works (lights,radio,alarm,etc)just no fire. I can hear the fuel pump running when i turn the key on. Then i would try it again maybe an hour later, and boom fired right up ran for a day or so then decided to not start again. Replaced the ignition coil because i was checking the plugs wires and other typical easy to check items and found the tip of the distributor coil to be broke, thought to myself ( cool easy fix ) not the case. still will not start so i kept trying all day, nothing i could find. Then last night decided to try again and it started right up. Got up this morning to go to work and just turned over and over. Tired of having to call my 65 year old dad to borrow his truck. Any help would be great.

 

[Rons beast]

Hey BDB,

Help us out. What are the vitals on your truck?

Have you checked if you are getting spark when it won't start?

Any codes?

 

[Bully Bob]

What Ron said....! ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

A clue (best guess) would be the pick-up (forgot the actual name) inside the dizzy. Or, the ign. module

However, added info. would help us point you to a fix W/O buying a bunch-o-parts.

We recommend staying away fr. ChiCom parts stores on any part that can get you stuck.

Likely a fuel or electronics issue, as usual.

Filling in your sig. page really helps... (see mine below) >< <'>

 

[miesk5]

yo BDB,

Do you have a meter to check batty voltage w / eng off and while cranking?

If not, get it & charging sys checked for free somewhere; I had a bad cell in batty that did about same as your's.

Check battery connections for corrosion; grounds, and wiring.

Base Voltage, No-Load (voltage should be in the range of 14.1 to 14.7 volts; With the engine running at 2000 rpm, check the alternator output voltage. The voltage should be between 13.0 and 15.0 volts

Cranking voltage at the starter is at least 9.6 volts.

 

[Xxxyank]

If it is not throwing any codes and your ignition looks good... I'd check your fuel pressure, maybe your fuel filter is partly clogged... Seen it happen to a buddy's 1994 f150 & wouldn't throw any codes... Turned out he had a bunch of crap in his tank & once the pressure would settle... the filter would come partly unclogged and allow enough fuel to pass to fire it up & it would run around, then Sporadically it would just sit there turn over & no fire...

 

[BDB]

Ok update on the issue... I went to auto(crap)zone today and they checked my ignition control module. The reader said it was bad??? so i bought a new one $50.00 :angry: came home and put it in and first try wouldnt start. but the second try fired right up. and has started every time since. for some reason i dont think i fixed the entire problem. I dont have any of the tools needed to check codes or anything like that. I am in the middle of moving so all my tools are in storage. ( I am leaning towards taking my grounds and cleaning them and seeing were that gets me. have a two month old battery so i dont think thats the problem. i will try and fill in my truck stats like suggested to give more info.

 

[Bully Bob]

That's great.., Good Job.! /

ChinaZone is good for testing.., they can also read your codes for free.

Cleaning wire connections can't hurt a thing. AutoZone has conductive grease, while your at it.

Another good trick is Lime-away..., it cleans good, rinse/wipe & then coat with electrical grease.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

======

Grounds, see my post here @ http://broncozone.com/topic/20952-loose-ground/page__pid__109954__st__0entry109954

 

[BDB]

Thanks for all the replies so fast this is a great site. I will try the Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes in the a.m. and post here if anything shows up. Again thanks for all the replies. Oh yea the truck is starting great havnt had any problems yet / knock on wood. im still gonna clean all my grounds and put electrical grease on all the connections i can get to and clean.

 

[BDB]

Ok new update truck is going to the shop in the morning. ( Wont start again and i am tired of wasting my money on parts that arent fixing the problem. :angry: I found a local guy who retired from a local ford dealership and now has a small garage. So i will let yall know what he says.

 

[Bully Bob]

Back-atcha...! / Thank you for the reports, updates, feedback.

You wouldn't believe how much this helps others on this board.

Side note... I'm suspicious of that ChinaZone module... Did it have a brand name..?

 

[BDB]

Ok sorry for the delay in update. Got all moved in to our new house and got my truck back from the shop. Distributor went out??? If you remember i posted that i took my ignition control module to auto zone and they tested and said it was bad. I think they lied to me just to sell a part so i am very upset about that. The mechanic i used said that he has seen this problem many times were it was an electrical issue and it all came from the distributor, he also told me that the local auto zone would sell a new part to you even if your part was still ok. So i guess the morale of this story is dont come to Alvin Tx. and buy from auto zone or let your truck break down while you are in the middle of moving and all your tools are in storage. [-X

 

[Bully Bob]

YEP..!

(Like I said in post #3 above)

"A clue (best guess) would be the pick-up (forgot the actual name) inside the dizzy. Or, the ign. module

However, added info. would help us point you to a fix W/O buying a bunch-o-parts.

We recommend staying away fr. ChiCom parts stores on any part that can get you stuck."

The dizzy holds a reluctor & a pick-up coil. Reluctors don't fail however, the coil can--but even that's rare.

In defense of AZ

Any company/store can have a "bad-apple" employee. Just be picky what you buy there. M5 mentioned, even some of their "wiper blades" don't fit..!! You might be able to return that "new module" if you talk to the store mgr. OR save one for a spare.

Anyhoooo.., good to see you're up-n-runn'n..!

Thanks for the UPDATE..!

B