Power missing

[Weazel]

I am rebuilding a 1989 Ford Bronco xlt. I had a 302 crate engine installed and the transmission rebuilt. I was told I would need to replace the throttle cable as it would cause issues with shifting. My question really being that with all these upgrades I have no power. I hooked to my father in laws tractor to pull it and instead of the Bronco spinning the tires it just bogs down. Would the throttle cable be an issue here, or should I look at the rear end/ transfer case issues?

 

[NaturalRampage]

Heya! Lets do some tests. when you shift it into drive, does the rear drive shaft spin, but no movement? If so, its the rear axle.

If you have a second pair of hands, have someone shift gears while you're underneath (Note: It's best if you don't have the engine running), if you see movement from the shifter to the transmission then the cable is good.

If both tests are fine, then the problem lies within the transmission and or transfer case. Let us know the results!

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Confirm trans is AOD;

Identification; E4OD, AOD & C6 Pan Identification & Driver Side pics by Kenneth. Shift Indicator Patterns & Indicator pics (AOD, C6 & E4OD); AOD have 14 pan bolts, P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D) - pic by trigger; C6 have 17 pan bolts, P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern - pic by miesk5; E4OD have 20 pan bolts; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern - pic by Chris A.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/22732-1990-bronco-351/page__gopid__118561#entry118561

Throttle Valve (TV) Cable pic in a 90 at throttle body



Source: by Jim Brown (Green Gynt) at SuperMotors.net

If the Throttle Valve (TV) Cable is disconnected the transmission should default to full TV pressure which will make the transmission shift as if it were at Wide Open Throttle all the time. It is also possible that the TV valve in the valve body is stuck in the high pressure position. The easiest way to see if this is the case is to perform a TV pressure test

Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment & Diagrams; Using a 100 psi pressure gauge to the TV port on transmission; "...WARNING: Adjust and check the transmission shift linkage as outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual. Adjustment must be done in Drive. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE WILL VOID THE WARRANTY AND CAN AFFECT THE SERVICE LIFE OF THE TRANSMISSION. For complete TV pressure set procedures, see appropriate Workshop Manual. NOTE: To achieve a correct TV adjustment, it is critical that an accurate pressure gauge (0–60 psi) with hose, Ford Motor Company part number T86L-70002-A or equivalent, be used. Also required is gauge tool D84P-70332-A or T86L-70332-A or equivalent. A. Install the pressure gauge T86L-70002-A or equivalent into the TV Pressure Port located on the right side of the transmission between the Direct and Forward pressure ports (Figure 1). Start engine, with parking brake applied, the transmission in NEUTRAL not Par k, and the fluid at operating temperature, continue with adjustment procedure. B1. For carbureted engines, install gauge tool D84P-70332-A or equivalent as shown, between the carburetor throttle lever and the TV linkage lever (refer to Figure 2). B2. For fuel-injected engines, install gauge tool T86L-70332-A or equivalent between the crimped lug on the end of the TV cable and the plastic fitting on the end of the throttle cable. Make sure the gauge tool is pushed in as far as it will go (refer to Figure 3). C. The pressure gauge must read a TV pressure of 35 PSI (+/- 5 PSI). D. Removing the gauge tool will return the throttle lever and TV linkage lever to the idle position. The transmission remains in NEUTRAL. The TV pressure reading must fall to 5 PSI or less, 0 PSI is preferable. E. If TV pressure of 0 to 5 PSI cannot be obtained, put the transmission in the park position with the engine running and move the TV linkage lever (Figure 2) back and forth 5 to 10 times to eliminate any internal friction within the TV valve assembly. Return the transmission to the neutral position and check TV idle pressure. If the TV pressure is still not in the 0 to 5 PSI range, repeat the process until 0 to 5 PSI is obtained..."

Source: by fordparts.com

Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment Video; This is a short clip compressed video clip; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window

Source: by Kenneth C (badshoeproductions) at youtube.com

Cable Removal in an 89 5.0

Source: by Waltman at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10222/55357

excerpts;

here I am prying upward on the throttle cable with the ***** driver to remove it and I will next pry upwards at the throttle body and move the throttle cable out of the way.

using the screwdriver again I pull the cable towards myself to slide the cable off the clip. Then using a pair of slip joint plyers I will squeeze the plastic clip on the sides which will allow me to slide the cable through the bracket

 

[Weazel]

Sorry yes it is an automatic, E4OD... My throttle cable is currently being held on with #9 wire and a couple zip ties, new one is on the way as we speak. Im hoping its something to do with the TV or throttle control. Like I said I had a new crate engine installed but they did use some of my old engine parts, mainly on the top end and I just had the transmission rebuilt. When I run the Bronco in drive it runs great but if I run it in OD it seems to be having issues, no pulling power in any configuration. I know its not the catalytic converter as it has been removed. Im not sure if the transfer case has any bearing on torque or lack of pulling power as it would be. Like I said if I hook weight to it it just bogs down, doesnt seem to be able to get the RPMS to increase. I would think the tires would break loose and spin or something would break...I really love my Bronco and have tooo much money invested in it as it is...just wanna get it to the point where the ol' lady will leave me alone about it LOL...

 

[miesk5]

yo, OK, the E4OD does not have that TV cable.

Is the trans rebuild warranty still in effect?

Regardless, take it back and ask for an opinion; speak w/shop owner.

If shop said it was the cable...

Shift Cable and Bracket Replacement in a 96;Removal

From under instrument panel, remove shift cable and bracket (7E395) from steering column.

Remove cable plastic terminal from gear shift lever pivot ball by prying with a screwdriver between cable plastic terminal and gearshift lever (7210).

Remove transmission shift cable from transmission shift cable bracket (7B229) by carefully lifting on the locking tab while pulling up on the fitting.

From engine compartment, pry cable grommet from dash panel.

Remove the plastic slide adjuster from manual lever pivot ball, prying with a screwdriver between the slide adjuster and manual control lever (7A256).

Remove transmission shift cable from transmission shift cable bracket by carefully lifting on the locking tab while pulling up on the fitting.

From engine compartment, pull cable through the instrument panel opening.

Installation

From instrument panel, feed plastic terminal end of cable through opening in dash panel to engine compartment.

Press cable grommet on transmission shift cable into dash panel.

From engine compartment, install transmission shift cable into transmission shift cable bracket and make sure locking ears are properly located and seated into bracket.

Place transmission shift cable on manual lever pivot ball and press into place.

From the passenger compartment, install cable-to-steering column transmission shift cable bracket onto transmission shift cable and make sure locking tab is fully seated and locked into place.

Snap cable plastic terminal to shift control selector lever pivot ball on steering column.

--

Adjust transmission shift cable.

From inside the vehicle, place the gearshift lever (7210) in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (4R70W and E4OD). Hang a three-pound weight on the gearshift lever.

Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.

Remove the shift cable from the transmission lever ball stud.

Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.

Position the gearshift lever in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.

Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.

Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.

Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the gearshift lever.

CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than D (drive) for the C6 automatic transmission or (D) (overdrive) for the E4OD automatic transmission.

After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the gearshift lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure correct detent/transmission actions. Readjust if necessary.

----------

Shift Cable Pin-Point Tests

Actuate shift linkage in all ranges.

Observe all linkage during operation.

Is shift cable and bracket properly installed?

Does indicator match gear selection?

Transmission Shift Cable and Bracket



Item Part Number Description

1 7E395 Shift Cable and Bracket

2 7B229 Transmission Shift Cable Bracket

3 56137-S100 Bolt, 3/8-16 x .62

4 N801555-S2 Nut and Washer, M8-1.25

A � Tighten to 22-30 Lb-Ft

B � Tighten to 13-17 Lb-Ft

_

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER