Points to HEI conversion issue

[whoohoo111]

1969 Bronco, 302, performer 600 carb/intake combo, brand new HEI distributor/cap combo.

So, as the title says, I converted from standard points to one of those HEI conversion distributors that are floating around on many performance websites. After pulling old distributor, I made sure to just make sure I had it set the first valve at top level to have a starting point for rotor. However, the Bronco will not start now, and after about 2 seconds of cranking, a white puff of smoke will float spray out of the carbeurator. (It was starting before conversion)

I read elsewhere that the starter could be dying, but I pulled it, and it tested just fine. It just will not start. All plugs, wires, and whole ignition set-up is new. I bought at BAT/TAC pigtail combo to rewire the distributor straight from the ignition. I removed the resistor ballast and all the extra wiring that was needed for points. I'm currently running a brand new Centech wiring setup. The battery is brand new as well. I know it is firing because (don't blast me for this) I purposely set timing off by 30 degrees to see what would happen, and it backfired. I tested the link between the tac and battery terminals under the pop-up cover on ignition coil housing. It read .5 ohms. Also, at the igntion coil level, its receiving 12.4 volts from the battery when the key is in ON position. I'm at a loss, and am considering sending the distributor back. Any ideas friends?
 

Plugs are set up in this order clockwise, with 1 being TDC >  1, 8, 7, 3 ,6, 2, 4, 5.     Someone mentioned that I should try to rotate cap 180 degress, but I'm not home to try it yet.

It is definitely getting fuel, as I it has new tank/fuel pump/lines, and was starting before conversion. Solenoid and actual key ignition is new.

Edit:  After 2 seconds of cranking, the carb will send out a fuel mist, which is what that white **** is I'm assuming.  I tried pumping the gas one time, and it ignited lol.  So no more pumping gas to start.
 

Edit 2:  If ignition coil is receiving proper voltage, would using the Centech 14ga wire matter compared the 10ga it recommends?

 

[Bully Bob]

Best guess  (And it's an easy mistake)  you got the dizzy installed 180 off..., a tooth off, or somewhere inbetween.

You should (key off) set/rotate the crank 'til the timing mark is at "0"  top-dead-center.

Install dizzy so that the rotor points directly at #1 pin in the dizzy cap. The dizzy needs to drop all the way down

'til it's completely seated.

If not seated.., pull up & rotate the rotor a tooth at a time & try dropping/seated.  Sometimes takes a while

to get it to drop-in  while pointing to #1 (due to the angle of the dizzy gear teeth.)

It will run at "0"  then you can set the advance by ear or use your timing light to get it to 7deg. advanced

or whatever that eng. calls for.

 

[whoohoo111]

Okay, so I'm a first timer at doing ignition stuff, but could you explain what the "Dizzy" is?  I've seen that in a lot of posts.

I hand rotated the crank by hand to TDC, and when I dropped the distributor in, it seated flush in the hole.  I set the rotor facing parallel with the length of the vehicle and put the 1 pin on the cap right over where the rotor was pointing at.  I'm assuming that is all correct?

 

[miesk5]

Yo W,

Welcome!

dizzy is slang for the distributor.

Read http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/203969-how-install-hei-distributor-302-engine.html#/topics/203969?_k=ma1ync

And http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-12350.pdf

 

[whoohoo111]

Thanks guys!  I ended up pulling the whole thing, and starting all over again.  I watched a video on youtube that showed me how to find TDC using a bolt and a drilled out spark plug.  I broke the end off plug, drilled out what I could, and epoxied a bolt into it. Then I rotated crank clockwise and counter, created two marks.  Then I measured out middle, and that was my TDC.   BTW I had to do this timing with NO marks, as the timing chain cover had none and I changed the harmonic balancer.    Reinstalled, marked on carb where 1 probe was at, and put cap on. 

Same damn thing happened.  It wouldn't crank, and eventually backfired.   THEN I did what Bully Bob suggested, and switched wires to be 180.  Bam, it fired right up, and it sounds great. 

Thanks to you all, and props to Bully Bob.

 

[Bully Bob]

I know, I hate it when that happens....  :lol:   :lol:

Actually you deserve the credit..., You did the "hands-on" ..!

Thanks for the up-date & stay on board..., others could use your help... >< <'>