PCM Module

[doitnowkid]

Hi everyone!

Now I know what's wrong with my '95 Bronco, with the 302 5.0L Engine. I need a new PCM Module. Anyone knows where to get it? I was quoted $550.00 by Ford to rebuild it???? Whatever that means. And, the worst part to it, it would take 3 weeks.

Three weeks without the Bronco?! :blink:

Thanks for all the help!

P.S. JSM84, Thanks for all your help so far! I guess all the work I did on the fuel pump wasn't the problem. Well, anyway I have a new fuel pump.

Doitnowkid

 

[doitnowkid]

Hi everyone!
Now I know what's wrong with my '95 Bronco, with the 302 5.0L Engine. I need a new PCM Module. Anyone knows where to get it? I was quoted $550.00 by Ford to rebuild it???? Whatever that means. And, the worst part to it, it would take 3 weeks.

Three weeks without the Bronco?! :blink:

Thanks for all the help!

P.S. JSM84, Thanks for all your help so far! I guess all the work I did on the fuel pump wasn't the problem. Well, anyway I have a new fuel pump.

Doitnowkid

Never mind, I got the PCM Module. If you ever need it, just try your local salvage yard, if they don't have it they know where to get it. Just make sure you get the right one. For instance the '94 is different than the '95, (for the same engine). It cost me $150.00, a far cry from the $550.00 that Ford wanted. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[bobstrat]

some of them are transmission specific as well. for example a computer for a 5.0/aod will not work in a bronco with a 5.0/e4od

 

[doitnowkid]

Hmm!

I didn't know that, hope that the one I ordered will work with my truck. I am not even sure what transmission is in the truck.

But the WIN code is N for the type of engne. The bronco is all stock with the 302 5.0 engine do you know the transmission that came with this one?

Doitnowkid

 

[bobstrat]

no off the top of my head i dont know.

i think normally if your overdrive button is on the dash, you have the e4od.

if its on the end of the shifter you have an aod.

both of these pcms are different than the one youd find behind a manual trans. while you might get away with putting the pcm for the 5.0/e40d into a 5.0/aod, i know for a fact you cannot switch them the other way. tried it. the e4od relies on the computer for shift info and overdrive engagement.

the aod transmission is not computer controlled.

 

[doitnowkid]

no off the top of my head i dont know. i think normally if your overdrive button is on the dash, you have the e4od.

if its on the end of the shifter you have an aod.

both of these pcms are different than the one youd find behind a manual trans. while you might get away with putting the pcm for the 5.0/e40d into a 5.0/aod, i know for a fact you cannot switch them the other way. tried it. the e4od relies on the computer for shift info and overdrive engagement.

the aod transmission is not computer controlled.

Hi bobstrat,

I guess I have an aod transmission. I have installed the module and the truck runs again. I am not sure, but it seems to shift differently than before. Nothing wrong about it, it shifts smooth and steady but it's not as agressive as before. I have not tried the overdrive yet.

Thanks for your help!

doitnowkid

 

[miesk5]

you have an E4OD in the Bronco if not swapped by a prev owner;

The E4OD four speed automatic transmission is used in BRONCO, F and E series trucks, as well as AOD and AOD-E/4R70W four speed automatic transmissions. To determine which is used in your vehicle, follow these guidelines:

If the shifter has a P-R-N-OD-D-1 pattern, the transmission must be an AOD (applicable to 1980-1993 vehicles).

If a 1989-1993 truck has an Overdrive Cancel Switch and a P-R-N-OD-2-1 shifter pattern, then it is equipped with an E4OD transmission. With the possible exception of some 4R70W equipped 1993 E-150 vans with 5.0L SFI engines (The existence of a 1993 4R70W van is unsubstantiated).

1994 and later vehicles with four speed automatic transmissions will all have an Overdrive Cancel Switch (@ end of column shifter; see depiction below) and a P-R-N-OD-2-1 shifter pattern, but may have either an E4OD or a 4R70W transmission. All 4.2L, 4.6L and some 5.0L engines use the 4R70W transmission, while diesel, 4.9L, 5.4L, 5.8L, 6.8L and 7.5L vehicles always use E4OD

 

[doitnowkid]

Well Miesk5,

That was a very detailed description. I read it twice and I'm still unsure what I have. My pan is 20" (at least), The shift lever markings are: P R N D 2 1 and I have an Overdrirve Cancell button on the end of the shift lever. I put the used module in and everything works and it shifts smoothly, but my Overdirve doesn't work, or at least the cancell button doesn't.

My cruse contnrol works and everything else seems to work.

In the mean time I have found a website where you can send in your bad PCM and they rebuild it and ship it back free. The rebuild costs $209.00. I think I might do that. The existing module is good, but as I said, it's not as agressive as the one I had before. It's always good to have the extra Module, just in case.

One thing, I was told by Ford that the module has to be calibared right or it will not work or not work well. The caliberation Code is on the Door Frame on a sticker.

My code is: 4-54L-ROO and my PCM is F4TF-12A650-AAA

Here is the website for those of you who have a PCM problem: Ecudirect.com I have , have noticed that a lot of people posted, that they have a problems with the truck stalling or not running at all, they might want to look at their PCM, since after I installed a brand new fuel pump I found out that my module was bad.

Bobstrat and Miesk5, thanks for your help and advise. This is why this place soooooo.... great, everyone is nice and ready to help the Newbees, like myself.

> > >

Doitnowkid

 

[bobstrat]

hey sorry for the bad info on the tranny id.

it sounds like you might have the wrong computer. when i put the wrong one in mine it did the same thing.

still shifted but not like it did before and no overdrive. the button cancels overdrive, by default its always on.

 

[bobstrat]

i was also told that it was bad for the trans to run it like that.

i dont know the validity of that info, but the guy who told was me the guy who rebuilt my tranny in my pickup.

 

[doitnowkid]

hey sorry for the bad info on the tranny id. it sounds like you might have the wrong computer. when i put the wrong one in mine it did the same thing.

still shifted but not like it did before and no overdrive. the button cancels overdrive, by default its always on.

No Prob. bobstrat. I am getting used to it. Anyway, it's good news that the overdrive is always on because it saves gas.

Like I said before I will have the original modul rebuilt, than I will put back in. It's not too difficult, one has to remove the drivers side wheel cover shroud. It's behind the front fender.

Now I just have have the a new compressor installed, (it went bad before all the other things, but it wasn't a priority). I already have a compressor, but I don't want to do it myself, since I don't have any Air Cond. equipment and I guess one has to recover the stuff and not just let it out into the air.

Thanks again!

Doitnowkid

 

[doitnowkid]

Hey Bobstrat,

Guess what, I was wrong. My Overdrive shut off is working just fine. I took it out on the highway and it runs beautifully. So I guess I bought the right PCM after all. As I said in the earlier posting the truck runs different but much better and the shifting seems to be smoother.

I also have to say, that I replaced all the sparkplugs with Bosch Platinum +2, and I also replaced the wires on all 8 plugs and the distributor. Some of the plugs were just rusted and the gaps were huge. The wires were old, to say the least. I am surprised that the truck ran at all?

Now the only thing remaining is to fix the airconditioning, (compressor) and add the K&N Cold Air Intake I bought off E-Bay.

That should also make a bit of a difference. Have a great weekend everyone! :-"

Doitnowkid

 

[miesk5]

gl KID!..you do have the E4OD.

btw, on da Plug Wires; make sure that they are "routed correctly" from Distributor to each spk plug;

"From my expenence, this problem is due to an induction crossfire condition setting up between the No. 7 and No. 8 cylinders, due to the plug wires of those two cylinders sitting too closely together Induction crossfire causes the No. 8 spark plug to fire twice, the first time about 45 deg sooner than it should. This leads to severe erosion of the electrodes, with subsequent detonation and related engine damage. The secret to preventing a recurrence is to route the wires for these two cylinders far apart via the separator brackets on the valve cover."

Spark Plug Wire Routing for 1994-and on 5.0L & 5.8L

ISSUE: Engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns may be caused by induction crossfire. This occurs because of improperly routed spark plug wires.

ACTION: If spark plug replacement is performed, the correct firing order and spark plug wire routing is essential to prevent the possibility of induction crossfire between cylinders. Refer to the following procedures for inspection of the spark plug wire routing and firing order. Properly reroute the spark plug wires if required.

FIRING ORDER

The firing order for 1987-1993 vehicles is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.

The firing order for 1994 vehicles is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire.

To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.

Should have diagram of routing on radiator support. top, between battery and hood latch

 

[doitnowkid]

gl KID!..you do have the E4OD.btw, on da Plug Wires; make sure that they are "routed correctly" from Distributor to each spk plug;

"From my expenence, this problem is due to an induction crossfire condition setting up between the No. 7 and No. 8 cylinders, due to the plug wires of those two cylinders sitting too closely together Induction crossfire causes the No. 8 spark plug to fire twice, the first time about 45 deg sooner than it should. This leads to severe erosion of the electrodes, with subsequent detonation and related engine damage. The secret to preventing a recurrence is to route the wires for these two cylinders far apart via the separator brackets on the valve cover."

Spark Plug Wire Routing for 1994-and on 5.0L & 5.8L

ISSUE: Engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns may be caused by induction crossfire. This occurs because of improperly routed spark plug wires.

ACTION: If spark plug replacement is performed, the correct firing order and spark plug wire routing is essential to prevent the possibility of induction crossfire between cylinders. Refer to the following procedures for inspection of the spark plug wire routing and firing order. Properly reroute the spark plug wires if required.

FIRING ORDER

The firing order for 1987-1993 vehicles is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.

The firing order for 1994 vehicles is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire.

To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.

Should have diagram of routing on radiator support. top, between battery and hood latch

Thanks Miesk5,

I have separator brackets on all the wires in 3 different palces. The engine is running very smoothly. When I replaced the wires I have done it one at a time, (including the plug), so I didn't mix up the cylinders. Thaks for your tip and help!

doitnowkid