Now I am stumped...

[Bully Bob]

"I no longer see the resistor- but I see two wires temporarily twisted together. Any idea what that resistor is for??"

All older ign. coils run on "6V" ..not 12V. The "resistor" does that..i.e. cuts the voltage to 6 volts.

Newer E.B.'s used a "resistor-wire" it's fat & usually red & gets a bit ugly over time. :-&

W/O these resisters, the coil won't last/live very long.

Having said that.., that may not be your only problem....so do inspect all other ign. wires for shorts, etc.

BTW, the white resistor is supposed to get "hot" that's how it works. In total dark. you may even see it glow.

 

[77bronco77]

Im not sure if when you cheaked the spark if you took all the wires off or not. but trace the wires down, just from stupid mistake experience i had a wire mixed up and that was part of my back firing through the carb problem, the rest was timing.

Good Luck

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

My plan of action is to run a new wire off the ignition switch to the resistor and then to the coil.

One of my questions are to what side of the coil does the ignition switch wire need to be ran?

And do new coils require only 6v as well?

I intend to carry out this plan Sunday, since I did not get to it today. Why does life have to be so busy??!

I would like to transfer plates and get this thing out on the road Monday!!

~J

 

[Bully Bob]

My plan of action is to run a new wire off the ignition switch to the resistor and then to the coil.That's fine

One of my questions are to what side of the coil does the ignition switch wire need to be ran?

To the + side.

And do new coils require only 6v as well?

Yes... save late model coil per cylinder electronic stuff these days...I have no idea what they run @ voltage.

Why does life have to be so busy??!

It's all fun..... B)

I would like to transfer plates and get this thing out on the road Monday!!

Me too.......... :lol:

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

I ran a new wire, changed the points twice, messed with the timing so many times I lost track, but she is running. Running very poopy but running. There are three firing orders that I know of for 302's. This motor will fire on all three- and behave differently for all three. This motor will also run decent on only four cylinders!

Order 1:

Misses every once in a while.

Has a "lope" to it.

Timing light is sporatic.

Very easy to start (with ether).

Order 2:

Little to no miss.

Sporaticness goes away.

Hard as heck to start- when it does (with ether), it runs awesome.

Does not idle for more than a few seconds, somewhere around 30-45 seconds.

Order 3: (the one its on now)

Misses every once in a while.

Did not check with timing light.

Dies when put into gear.

When it finally goes into gear and stays running its not the greatest.

Keeps loading up.

I have to use ether to start it every time. EVERY time.

Timing way advanced to start, ******** to idle well.

Pings lightly at idle, but seems to only do so on the passenger side.

Pings loudly at full throttle, but again, only on the passenger side.

I THINK the ether problem is lack of fuel at start-up. I remember needing to choke the heck out of this motor to get her started even on warm days. It has a different carb on her now than before with the same problem, so I do not think it is the carb. Any ideas on this one??

I think a set of wires and plugs will clear up the miss. Should I go a step hotter than stock?

I have no idea what causes the timing light to be so sporatic. Its reallly bad.

I have a vacuum leak to fix with the brake booster. -It goes away when the brakes are held to the floor.

On a positive note:

It's running.

It's loud.

It's snappy.

I wonder if it has a performance cam in it...

I wonder if I can get this thing to get better than 8 mpg...

I wonder if I can get it to be as reliable as my interceptor...

~ J

PS

Done rambling!!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

When you get this baby running properly, we are all going to go through a couple of verses of chum-by-ah, and have a group beer!

Autozone has a tool rental policy (for certain tools) that you pay for the tool and use it. If you return it within a month, you get your money back. Perhaps they have a fuel pressure tester for rent.

I suggest that becuase it may be worthwhile to test your fuel pump.

Use carb cleaner on the carb,

check your float level, and make sure that the float doesn't have any fuel in it. (sometimes the float can become pourous, and with time it will sink to the bottom of the bowl.)

a funky carb can give one a loping idle

Regarding the flaky timing light.

The light may be bad... OR

the spark plug wire that you connect it to may be bad... (that would also cause an irratic miss)

In changing from one fireing order to another did you ever change/move the number one plug wire? If you ever use a different wire and teh timing light works better, then it is the wire. A bad condensor could give an erratic spark, and if there was an erratic spark to cyl one, then the light would be erratic.

Idleing with a lope, is very often due to a vacuum leak.

Changing the plugs and wires should help, but finiding the correct fireing order might be the challenge. I guess if all else fails one could pull off the valve covers, and determine the order that the intake valves open.

Well Jimmy... I hope you are having fun /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

joe

 

[Bully Bob]

289-302 only (one) firing order....15426378

351 W, M, & 400 is diff. ....13726548 Maybe it's a 351 eng. in your rig..?

 

[oleguy74]

ONE THING!!!MOST NEW COILS DONT NEED A RESISTOR.ALTHOUGH SOME STILL DO.WHEN YOU BUY A COIL THE SPEC.SHEET SHOULD SAY WETHER YOU NEED A RESISTOR OR NOT.THEY ARE ONLY ABOUT 1 OHM OR SO.IGN SW WILL GO TO THE + SIDE OF THE COIL,POINTS GO TO NEG.IF YOUR MOTOR IS ORIG.15426378 IS FIREING ORDER.IF YOUR MANIFOLD IS STOCK WILL BE STAMPED.AGAIN CHECK COIL SPEC.AND SEE IF IT NEEDS A RES.OR NOT.SET TIMMING AT 8-10 DEG BTDC,WITH VAC ADV DISC. 28-32 DEG OF DWELL IS FINE.WHAT KIND OF CARB DO YOU HAVE?ALSO THERE IS A GROUND WIRE INSIDE THE DIST THIS GROUNDS THE DIST BREAKER PLATE SO CONDENSER HAS A PATH TO GROUND TOCHARGE.MAKE SURE IT IS IN PLACE.

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

I don't even drink and a beer is sounding good at this point!

I will look into buying a fuel pressure gauge- I am going to need one when I transfer this motor over into the new chassis anyway. I think it is a good idea. I will get a temp gauge at the same time... I have no idea how cool or hot this puppy was running.

I have cleaned the carb once, but I will pull it off and clean it again- and check out the float situation... it may be time for a re-build.

I do not think the timing light itself is bad, so I will be replacing the plugs and wires in the next few weeks. I have run out of funds available and patience for this vehicle for now.

I really do not want to spend time, effort, and money on swapping the brake booster out with the one that I have in the garage... I do not plan on driving this bronco in this chassis for very long... a few months

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

I am not 100% sure that it is a 71... not after all the timing issues.

I am not sure if it has a cam in it or not...

I am not sure of much of anything.

I am sure that it requires ether to start

I am sure that it will not stay running.

I am sure that the timing is pretty much maxed out as far as advanced adjustment with the current firing order.

I am sure that the timing needed to be adjusted to different locations for each firing order in order to run.

 

[Bully Bob]

It appears we're going from back to front on this one..!!!

We, who try to help..assume the owner has some sort of history & knowledge of what he has.

Otherwise, it's an "exercize in futility"

"What are the tell-tale signs of a 302 vs. a 351??"

Dist., waterpump, head thickness, etc. ......don't remember & I'm loosing interest...

"I am getting pretty frustrated!! Tired of chasing down "what if's"

Folks on this board can't help W/O a correct starting point....

You need to find out what eng. you have, what year, & what it came out of...etc.

Good luck.... @-)

 

[BroncoJoe19]

As for pulling the valve covers- great thinking! I will do two things at once: make sure they are adjusted correctly and check out the timing. Can anyone show or tell me what valves are what??

According to Haynes on the V8 engines the valve arraingment on the left bank is E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I

and on the right bank is I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E

I did notice that when I started it to go to work this morning, there were sparks between the fuel filter and the surrounding metals... I did not have a chance to look elsewhere for any other stray sparks.

Well LOL... I am pretty sure THAT is NOT suppossed to be happining!

Obviously you have a bad wire jumping juice to the fuel line, or filter.

 

[aqua_wonder]

Every think about switching over to electronic ignition? Few different venders out there that convert points to electronic. I bought Crane's it has a built in rev limiter set it to 4000, 6000 or 8000. I paid under 70 bucks with shipping.

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

I have no reason to not believe that it is a '71 Bronco 302. Every part that I have ordered has been correct, and that is what the fella said it was from when I purchased the Bronco. And there are not any reinforcing ribs at the distributor. I would think they would have wanted to tell me if they spent the money on a new cam, so I am thinking the cam is stock. Next time I work on it, I will plug the vacuum leak for the brake booster so at least I do not have that to contend with! I too, am finding it hard not knowing exactly what it is I am working with. I am only going by what I have been told and what little I know. This is another reason why I am planning on doing a tear down once I change this running gear into the other chassis. I will freshen the motor up with a mild re-build and then all internal questions should be answered!!

I have thought of switching over to electronic ignition now, the funds are just not available for this vehicle. I am working on my Mach 1 as well... and since that gets way better mpg, it comes first. I realize that the system mentioned is only $70, but I feel if I am going to spend anything on EI, it should be on the system that I want to run from here on out... not just a temporary fix. I will be starting my next wave of mechanics on my vehicles either in the beginning of next week or the week after that. The next items for the Bronco are plugs and wires. That should stop the sparking that I saw, but I will check (as always) for the sparks after the install.

Thanks for the information, Bronco Joe!!

I cannot express enough my appreciation of all the help, tips, and tricks that you fellas have provided for me!!

I appoligize for my frustration.

It fires and works, then dies and doesn't start.

Why does it this?

Tinker, tinker, tinker...

It fires and works, then dies and doesn't start.

Why does it that?

Tinker, tinker, tinker...

It is the cycle I am mad at!!

Friends at work suggested a one-way valve on the fuel line.

They think that there is no fuel in the carb for start-up, or that the injector pump is not holding a charge.

This is their suggestion to solve the ether problem. Once the money is there, I will get one of these installed along with the plugs and wires, unless there are any objections/suggestions. It is you fellas that have the experiance with these motors!!

Until next time!

~J

 

[oleguy74]

18436572 is chevy firing order 283-327 ect.just dont let your frustration get to, you takeyour

time.dist turns counter clockwise.start with #1 and make sure wires are in the right place.as you said plug vacume leaks,check ign wireing. it is a good idea to put a clear fuel filter between carb and pump.that way you keep dirt out and you can see if you have fuel getting to carb.a one way valve in fuel line is not nessary,your fuel pump has one built in.take off air cleaner ,operate throtle by hand ,see if fuel squirts into carb,if it shoots a good stream,accelerator pump should be ok.if you have an orig 2-barrel carb ,it should have a metal fuel filter,replace it.as for distributors,i would go with pertronics ignitor-2 .i use one .mine is 6 years old and no trouble,the crane mentioned is probably ok,but you dont need a rev limiter.keep us posted on progress.rember my friend ONE THING AT A TIME!!!YOUR FIREING ORDER IS 15426378.

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

I will take your suggestion of the clear fuel filter... I like it.

I cannot see any fuel being squirt into the carb--

but then again the Bronco sits so high I cannot see into the carb, and I am 6' 4"!!

I will check into that... so if no fuel squirts, carb needs a rebuild??

I will replace the wires again. They were given to me, all fired a plug, but I think I should replace them with new.

I will replace the plugs with hotter ones. They were not too bad, but a little beat up.

I will investigate the firing order by removal of tappits. This will allow me to make sure that they are adjusted correctly as well. They look like they are really cranked down too far.

Thanks again for all the help!!

~J

 

[Crude dude]

If you are just trying to get the engine running you dont need hotter expensive plugs. I have always used Bosch Platinums. As far as plug wires go, if you have an ohm meter you can check the resistance on the wires. I forget the standards but I recall 2 ohms per foot of plug wire??? I would do this before buying the RIGHT plug wires which are not very cheap. Put your money towards a Duraspark box and distributor. Not very expensive and very reliable. If you do not have a working accelerator pump in your carburetor it can be very tough to start if your engine is not in perfect time. If you have an aftermarket camshaft in your 302 , it may be ground for the 351 firing order. This is to relieve stress on the crankshaft and most aftermarket cam grinders have gone to this. Are you sure that you have the rocker arms too tight? Most 302s do not have adjustable valve lash and just require the rocker arms to be tightened down all the way.

 

[mustangtoby]

For what it's worth, I had a 390 in an old f-100 that would die and stay dead for awhile then start and run fine indefinetly. After months of frustration, I replaced the wire from the coil to the points. The wire was broken inside the housing, usually making connection well enough to run, most times pretty well. Sometimes it would die completely, and wouldn't run until I had gotten under the hood and wiggled every wire I could find. After I changed the wire, I stripped the sheathing off the wire and found the broken wire. Once again, for what it's worth. Hope it helps!

Oh, and by the way: 15426378 is the correct fireing order, unless you have the newer ** cam (5.0), or the newer windsor cam. They are 13726548. These are the only two fireing orders Ford used from the early 60 through modern times. I'm not sure, but I think all the new triton engines use the second one, but I may be wrong. Good luck.