No Start Problem?

[cpratt1999]

Ok I've had numerous problems this last year with my Bronco and I'm at my wit's end here. My current problem is that when I crank the ignition it causes the starter to "click" once. I had an old battery and OEM Starter so I replaced both (high torque starter) and this seemed to clear things up. My engine is newly rebuilt and I have barely had it running for more than 20-30 minutes twice. It also had this starter/click problem prior to the engine swap and it was always reliable with this exception.

I tried the pound with hammer trick, and no go. Tried pulling the new starter to bench test it, and it engages/disengages properly.

Thought the flywheel might be bad; however, all the teeth look fine and uniform. Tried to manually turn the motor and it turned with some difficulty (prob from compression), but it turned nonetheless.

Thought it might even be the neutral safety switch (and still may be) so I tried to see if I could unlock whatever by rolling the truck back. When I popped it into reverse, neutral, then drive all acted as if the parking brake was stuck on (truck's parked on my driveway/hill). It flat out wouldn't budge. This may or may not be a related problem, but I have yet to figure this out. I've spent several hours today in the snow working on this.

Not sure if I have a bad torque converter, or solenoid, battery cables, or even the neutral safety switch, but before I rush out and spend any more $ I thought I'd try getting some feedback.

Here is the specs of my Bronco and the engine rebuild:

1993 EFI Bronco XLT 210k miles

Ex/Retired State Patrol Vehicle

351W Rebuilt w/0 miles.

E4OD tranny-(allegedly) replaced prior to my purchase from State Patrol.

-351W Rebuild Specs:

-Machined 30 over

-Professional Products Typhoon Intake/Plenum

-Prof. Prod. Throttle Body

-Accel 24 lbs./hr Injectors

-Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers

-Crane Cam (#444232) Computer Compatible Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Specs:

Intake/Exh. Lift @.000: 280/290 Duation 268/276 Int/Exh @ .050: 109/119 Duration: 206

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Try putting 12 volts to little pole of the fender mounted starter relay.

Make sure the relay is well grounded. Clean and tight.

Check that your ground cable is clean and tight to the enginen and frame.

Check that the cable terminals are well connected to the cables.

If you are getting a click, you probably have a crappy connection that is not allowing engough amperage to get through.

Thought it might even be the neutral safety switch (and still may be) so I tried to see if I could unlock whatever by rolling the truck back. When I popped it into reverse, neutral, then drive all acted as if the parking brake was stuck on (truck's parked on my driveway/hill). It flat out wouldn't budge.

I'm not absolutely clear on this, but it should have no effect on the NSS. You likely have a jammed transfercase.

See info here.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13576

 

[cpratt1999]

Okay, sorry for the long delay. Been busy as all he**

So now I've replaced the battery, starter and solenoid, terminals, and it get's consistent juice through the solenoid switch when cranked. It actually had 12.5V and the battery had been slightly drained from trying to crank it. Still just "clicks" once when I turn it over, almost as if the battery is dead or the starter is toast.

I took out mny breaker-bar thinking the engine might have locked up, but it turns when I manually rotate the engine. I've got a kid on the way and a wedding around the corner, and I need the truck asap. My 99 Trans-Am's radiator cracked so now I've been reduced to driving her mazda....God it's depressing.

I guess the next step may be the ignition switch, or the ignition/lock cylinder. I don't know what else to do at this point.

Thanks for your input from earlier gang!

 

[cpratt1999]

Well the solenoid switch didn't do a damn thing either.

 

[bobstrat]

if you try to start it, it clicks? what happens if you try it again? does it click every time you turn the key to start? have you tried jumping the solenoid?

 

[TennesseeBroncBoy]

I don't know if this will help you or not, but mine did the same thing. I was going to replace the starter on it and a little piece of paper came in the new starter box saying that the old style post where the wire terminal slid on gets corroded and causes a bad electrical connectin and it won't fire off. I pulled te wire and wire brushed the crap out of th post and the wire terminal and it fires up first time everytime. Give that a try. Hope it works for you.

 

[cpratt1999]

I've replaced everything! Re-wired the battery cables (both +/-), brand new high-torque starter, new starter/solenoid switch, and all It does is click! It acts like there is a dead spot in the starter, but I've bench tested it since replacing it, and it's good. Only options left are the ignition switch, brake switch, or the neutral safety switch.

It had this problem intermittently prior to the engine swap so I'm certain it's nothing to do with my rebuild.

 

[cpratt1999]

Ok so I tore everything all apart, redid all the wiring AGAIN and still nothing. When I pulled the starter the teeth on the ring gear looked fine. I manualy rotated the engine a few times and it cranked. NOW it wont flippin run. I have had so many damn problems with this truck since I swapped the motor...I'm just ready to part it out.

I go in for surgery on both hands on X-mas week. I do not have time for this anymore.

While adjusting my roller rockers I realized that the castings on the heads were different. I'm wondering if the heads have something to do with all of my problems. I'm also thinking the Typhoon manifold I swapped with the OEM truck/efi manifold is a problem. The typhoon is similar to the mustang intake/plenum.

 

[Rons beast]

Ok so I tore everything all apart, redid all the wiring AGAIN and still nothing. When I pulled the starter the teeth on the ring gear looked fine. I manualy rotated the engine a few times and it cranked. NOW it wont flippin run. I have had so many damn problems with this truck since I swapped the motor...I'm just ready to part it out.
I go in for surgery on both hands on X-mas week. I do not have time for this anymore.

While adjusting my roller rockers I realized that the castings on the heads were different. I'm wondering if the heads have something to do with all of my problems. I'm also thinking the Typhoon manifold I swapped with the OEM truck/efi manifold is a problem. The typhoon is similar to the mustang intake/plenum.

OK so you replaced the positive and negative battery cables, the starter, the starter solenoid, AND the battery right?

Ground cable on a clean bare metal face of the engine block? (paint on a new rebuild is a good insulator.)

If you jump the starter solenoid the starter still just clicks?

If you jump both heavy #2 guage posts on the start relay does the starter still just click?

If so forget the neutral switch and everything back to the key that starts the darn thing.

You say you replaced the battery. If you replaced the original with the same CCA rating your battery may not be strong enough to crank the new rebuilt engine, even if it is new. You didn't mention if the new motor is bigger,(cubic inches)

I have encountered brand new batteries that would test at 12volts but have very little cranking amps, or were just plain bad. Most new batteries sit on the shelf for awhile and don't get charged prior to being given to customers. They may start the car once and then get charged as the car is driven. If you started the Bronco once and the battery was week , and didn't get to drive and charge it the battery may be too week to crank a new engine. I have seen this happen more times than you might think.

If it's not a battery problem after everything else, I think your motor is "tight" try and see if it will crank with all the plugs out, (and the coil disconnected to be safe).

Good luck

 

[cpratt1999]

OK so you replaced the positive and negative battery cables, the starter, the starter solenoid, AND the battery right? Yes.
Ground cable on a clean bare metal face of the engine block? (paint on a new rebuild is a good insulator.) This I may have to dive into some more. I've tossed the ground strap concept around a bit too.

If you jump the starter solenoid the starter still just clicks? yes, I've also replaced it with a new one.

If you jump both heavy #2 guage posts on the start relay does the starter still just click? Works just fine. The old OE one was totally seized

You say you replaced the battery. If you replaced the original with the same CCA rating your battery may not be strong enough to crank the new rebuilt engine, even if it is new. You didn't mention if the new motor is bigger,(cubic inches)

I have encountered brand new batteries that would test at 12volts but have very little cranking amps, or were just plain bad. Most new batteries sit on the shelf for awhile and don't get charged prior to being given to customers. They may start the car once and then get charged as the car is driven. If you started the Bronco once and the battery was week , and didn't get to drive and charge it the battery may be too week to crank a new engine. I have seen this happen more times than you might think. It's a 351 windsor, mildly built (specs above) and I've charged the battery. You were right, the battery was slightly drawn, but this did nothing to alleviate the problem.

If it's not a battery problem after everything else, I think your motor is "tight" try and see if it will crank with all the plugs out, (and the coil disconnected to be safe). Did this as well. The motor turns fine. After pulling the starter again I inspected all of the teeth on the ring-gear and the starter, both looked fine. I managed to get it to crank over a few times, and now it's not starting again. I ordered a new distributor today. The wires were warm for some reason and I noticed some smoke, but no apparent damage underneath the wiring harness.

Good luck

 

[Rons beast]

You say the wires were warm? What wires?

Sounds like a ground fault. The grounds from the neg bat MUST be tight on the terminal and at the motor block, the frame and the body.

A weak ground will cause high resistence and HEAT.

 

[Rons beast]

Another thought...is the starter solenoid mounted on an inner fender or fender wall that is loose or rusted? Fords have been very bad about grounding. Try to get a #8 guage wire direct from the battery ground to the mounting bolts of the solenoid, This assures the solenoid is grounded fully.

 

[cpratt1999]

Another thought...is the starter solenoid mounted on an inner fender or fender wall that is loose or rusted? Fords have been very bad about grounding. Try to get a #8 guage wire direct from the battery ground to the mounting bolts of the solenoid, This assures the solenoid is grounded fully.

These wires (see attachment)

No, my firewall is in tip-top shape. I even cleaned the terminals and post connectors to ensure they would connect efficiently. I think I may try to run another engine ground just to see what happens.

 

[cpratt1999]

well the new alternator didnt do the trick. Are my injectors too big? Are the roller rockers a problem? I adjust them til the pushrod has no lash and tighten the set screws. If i go a hair over it seems like it has 0 compression. If I go under then I have too much compression.....grrrr

 

[muddrivermike]

Something nobody said but It sounds like you have a bad starter.It may spin freely on a bench with no load on it but turning a engine is a different story.A cooked starter will click and also will heat up the cables due to it drawing more amps, trying to turn the engine.You obviously are getting the power to the starter when you turn the key so it leaves the possibilty of the starter being bad. :mellow:

 

[cpratt1999]

Something nobody said but It sounds like you have a bad starter.It may spin freely on a bench with no load on it but turning a engine is a different story.A cooked starter will click and also will heat up the cables due to it drawing more amps, trying to turn the engine.You obviously are getting the power to the starter when you turn the key so it leaves the possibilty of the starter being bad. :mellow:

Just replaced it with a high torque starter. I finally got it to turn over, but it still wont start

 

[muddrivermike]

Oh Ok,I took it as you have a high torque starter and have this problem,So you had this problem with the old starter also?

 

[muddrivermike]

I was just re-reading everything.Id hate to think that you have an engine problem.It does still seem to show symptoms of a bad battery,It had enough power to click the starter but not turn it,Have you tried to jump start it,or try a different battery?Im just throwing out options here even though it looks like im going in circles.It kinda sounds like not enough juice.What about this,when you try to crank it does everything in your dash dim down?That would be a bad battery.

 

[Rons beast]

Just replaced it with a high torque starter. I finally got it to turn over, but it still wont start

WAIT! Does that mean that the engine cranks, but won't start and run?

I thought we were still on a problem of the starter just clicking.