yo,
This is what Ric did;
Here's what a mostly-cracked pintle cap looks like. Napa sells replacements, part 2-15018, for $0.39. It beats buying new injectors.
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As for a FI rebuild & that manifold bolt;
by JoelB
Ok, this is my first write-up, so there is bound to be a lot of edits and please, let me know if it is too much info. This was done on a 1994 351W.
I got a lot of my info from fordfuelinjection.com and Haynes manual.
I ordered the rebuild kit off ebay from user bjcda ...
This is a good kit (he sends extra parts in case you ***** up) and a good vendor.
You will need a long T40 torx to remove the one bolt on the middle of the passengers side of the intake and a 3/8 and 1/2 fuel rail disconnect tool.
MIESK5 NOTE; See Malcolm's DIY tool Link at end of this reply...
Remove the fuel rail bolts, and disconnect the ruel rail using the special tools. Now rock the rail back and forth to remove.
Remove injectors from the fuel rail by rocking them back and forth. Some of the rubber seals may stick in the rail. Make sure you remove them before you replace injectors.
Now wire up your a test injector circuit. I got my connector from Carquest. Oreilly's and Advance couldn't find one. This is a simple circuit that I wired to the battery. I wired the negative and left the positive loose. I plugged in the injector and touched the positive wire to the + battery terminal. You should hear a click. I did on 7 of 8 injectors. On the other injector, I could hear that it was trying, but it did not open/shut.
Miesk5 NOTE; The Ryan M (Fireguy50) at
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82
Link I gave you in last post described how to make this ckt up.
Remove the filter in the injector by screwing a #10 machine ***** into the filter (according to fordfuelinjection.com). I didn't have a #10 machine ****** so I found one that worked. If you use a longer ***** like I did, make sure you do not ***** it in too far or you could probably damage the injector. I put the ***** in a vise, twisted the injector onto the ****** then rocked the injector back and forth while pulling it out. And pay not attention to all the crap in the background.
To remove the pintle cap, use either a hard plastic or wood dowl and push firmly on the back side of the cap. If you are like me, you will probably break them before the actually come off. That is why you shouldn't use a ***** driver. Remove the upper and lower rubber seal.
a comment by Stangmata..."I wasn't able to get the pintle caps off this way. I used a razor and put a small slice in the caps and then pulled them off with a small pair of needle-nose pliers...."
After soaking, reconnect the injector to your test circuit (I hard wired + this time) and blow out the injector from the bottom. Make sure you point it away from anything or anyone of value.
Rebuild the injectors with your new parts. I pressed the filter and pintel cap on by firmly pressing them into a wood block.
Lubricate the seals with a little grease before you reinstall. That helped a lot. I also recommend putting the injectors into the block first, then slipping on the fuel rail.
Now put everything back together.
pictures can be found on my supermotors account.
http://www.supermotors.org/mygarage/vehicles/content.php?id=8824&sID=26017
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back to that intake man bolt;
Removal, Upper Intake Tip & Tool in an 86 5.0 Source: by my Canadian pal, Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
"...This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center ***** out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing. I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all..."
see hot link above for pics
