New Warn Manual Hubs

[hoghappy]

I just finished installing the premium warn manual hubs on my 93 and have some dumb questions.

1. I couldn't find a purpose or place to put the large retaining rings ( small ones installed) so I left them off...is that going to be a problem?

2. How do I get the truck into 4 low?

3. What happens if I hit the push buttons now?

4. After I rotate the locks to free, do I have to back up to disengage the hubs back into 2 wheel drive like with the auto hubs?

They seem to work ok and look good but haven't had it in the mud yet. I wanted to ask these questions before I did that.

Thanks

Robert

 

[Yardape]

Stop...............

 

[Yardape]

You need those retaining rings, they go around the inner curcumferance of the hub. there is a groove in the hub that these rings slide into, if you cannot find the groove then you didnt install properly, if you have to remove one of the locking hub mechanisms and see what I mean.

 

[Yardape]

To put it into 4lo you must stop, put the truck in neutral, and put you selector to 4lo, if its push button do the same and push 4lo. Wait for a couple seconds you will hear a couple clicks and your 4 lo light should light up on the dash. You are now okay to put it in gear and go. To remove it is the same procedure.

 

[Yardape]

You dont always HAVE to back up to disengage them but it is a good practice to do so just in case.

 

[hoghappy]

Ok...I put the small "retaining" ring in the slot to hold the hub in. I still have the large "lock"ring that I had to use the needle nose to get off the old hubs. There is no apparent place to put it. These manual hubs don't have a groove around the out side like the autos did. The installation instructions I found here made no mention of putting it on.

My push buttons quit working....I just get a relay click under the dash but no sound under the truck of the motor.

So...are you telling me I won't be able to engage 4 low?

Will I just have 4 high and 2 high?

I already drove it 20 miles home this morning...hope I didn't do anything baaaad! :blink:

 

[Yardape]

If your 4hi works your 4lo should work too. If there is no groove for the larger ring then I would have to suspect that the hubs arent pushed in all the way. I am thinking that your style might have needed the adapter kit. How many screws held the cover onto your auto hubs?

 

[Roadkill]

Yardape is right, the groove for the outer ring didn't go anywhere. If it is no longer accessable, then something is not assembled right. I too suspect you may need the conversion kit. (consists of new locking nuts)

As for 4Lo, you have to be in 4Hi ("4X4" light on) before you push the 4Lo button. You cannot go directly from 2Hi to 4Lo. The is actually a computer in the system that checks for the proper conditions (vehicle completely stopped, transmision in neutral, t-case in 4Hi) before it will engage 4Lo.

 

[hoghappy]

I thought the whole reason for manual hubs was too forget about the push buttons? My hi and low buttons quit working...just get a relay click in the dash....no lights. That is why I replaced the autos with manuals.

The large ring held in the outer portion (drive ******, spring and oil slinger) of the auto hubs, the small ring held in the inside (body assembly) portion. The new manual hubs only have the body assembly portion and the small retaining ring appears to hold it all in.

I have the 6 bolt hubs.

 

[Yardape]

the old hubs had 6 bolts?

 

[bluesman17]

The reason for the manuals is to avoid the tendency for the auto hubs to fail. If youre not getting any lights and hearing the relay I would suspect that your shift motor isnt working.

Answers to your questions

1. Yes, you probably need the conversion kit.

2. Not moving faster than 3 mph, in neutral, and in 4 hi.

3. If hubs are locked in you can shift into 4hi up to 45 mph, if unlocked youre just turning the driveshafts but wont get anything from the front tires.

4. No, that when they are in the Free position thats where it is. The autos needed to be backed up to free them up.

 

[hoghappy]

my bad...the autos had 5 bolts...the new warns have 6 bolts.

 

[Yardape]

Thats what I thought. The 5 bolt hubs need a conversion kit, had it three bolts you would not. The kit comes with washers and a new nut for each side, I suspect the reason for this is just what you are experiencing, the bearing nut assembly that you have will not allow you to push the new manual hubs in far enough to expose the groove that you need to install the retaining ring

 

[Yardape]

Actually your going to have to find out which ones which. I think I might be backwards here

 

[hoghappy]

ok...I am not tring to be difficult. It's just that I know next to nothing about 4wd. Everthing I read says I do not need the conversion kit for a 5 bolt hub. I will open the hub and see if I can get the large outer ring in again. I didn't even try last time cause I didn't see a groove on the new hub body for it like on the old auto body. I'm sure the groove on the housing hasn't disappeared..lol

I still don't understand about the buttons. Are you telling me that 4 wheel drive will not work even if I dial it in the manual hubs, unless the lights come on?

Thanks

Robert

 

[Yardape]

Light bulbs do burn out, your transfer case is controlled by an electric motor, which very well could need to be replaced

 

[Roadkill]

I thought the whole reason for manual hubs was too forget about the push buttons? My hi and low buttons quit working...just get a relay click in the dash....no lights. That is why I replaced the autos with manuals.

Unfortunately, I think you may not have needed new hubs (you money was not wasted, though. Your new Warn Premiums are WAY more reliable than the stock auto-lockers) It sounds to me that your original problem lies in the shifting system; either the shiftmotor has gone bad, the wiring, or the control module. I don't have access to my manuals or schematics where I am, so I can't help you with an exact troubleshooting strategy. However, since you say you hear a relay clicking, I would crawl underneath the truck and check the electrical conector on the shift motor. Your problem could be as simple as a loose, dirty, or broken connector or wire.

As for wether or not you need the conversion kit, this site says you need it if your originals had 3 screws. I'm wondering if you are talking about a different piece than the lockring that Yardape and I think you are talking about?

Edit:

Posts #15 and #16, above, came up while I was typing the information above. On second though, I'm pretty sure we are talking about the same ring. I think if you push in on the hub a little, the ring will pop right in.

 

[hoghappy]

You guys are really nice....anyway I just got the large rings in...no problem and I bled on it properly so I know it will be good to go. No apparant damage from the drive home.

I think I get it now...the push buttons do more than just engage the hubs? They also engage the front differental...is that right?

Gee I should have known it wouldn't be that simple...lol

Ok...when I push the 4wd button, I hear a click in the dash....a relay? I get no light and hear nothing else. Any help will be appreciated on what to look for.

Thanks.

Robert

oh...I have the Haynes Manual but it is not much help for this problem

 

[Roadkill]

Like I said earlier, the first thing is to check the easy stuff. Check for a blown fuse. Crawl underneath and check the electric connector on the shift motor and the wires leading to it. You will be looking for physical damage to the wires or connector, that it is actually plugged in, and if the connection in loose, dirty or coroded. Sometimes you get lucky and the problem is real easy to solve. I have no access to my books right now so you will have to wait for someone else to help further. If you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual, they should also have a troubleshooting procedure for your problem.