new truck - need help...

[monza]

so i took the plunge.

bought a '75 off ebay.

halled ass out to Las vegas and drove her back to los Angeles.

she's been faltless - and i need her to run all the while i am working on her.

i am new to these trucks - so i dont have the eyes you guys all have.

heres what i know:

bodywork is mostly beat up!

heavy rust in wheelarches - consequently the door posts and doors have sagged and fit v badly (1" drop) - and the whole front fender moves when i lift the door !

hood is fiberglass.

inside has been prof spray lined throughout - so cant tell what the floorpan is realy like.

full hard top - not bad cond

bikini sift top - great cond.

engine is a rebuilt (2500mls) 351 with the 302 rad, fan and hoses up front.

Wild Horses broncoScript covers (with the long T bolt things)

A fkng HUGE Holley street avenger carb - 670cfm

Holley fuel pump

MSD ignition system

power steering from 76 Bronco

HD desert 4 core rad

james Duff power brake

C4 auto rebuilt 4000mls

new BC bronco 3.5' coils

new WH 11pack rear leafs

WH steering stabilizer

all new WH bushings

33" goodrich all terrain - 8000mls

Dont know wheel make - polished alloys - 5 of them - nice

twin exhaust - side exit.

new 12 gal up front

stock 10 gal in back - both work.

also inc a front disc brake conversion - needs spindles to attach.

heres whats wrong:

Brakes pull right big time.

Power assist WAY too high - can do parking lot speeds with 1 finger ! way too sensitive at highway speeds!!

steering 'dead spot' - from 5 to 12 to 5 past twelve - nothing happens - - couple that with the power assist and it can be might worrying at 30+ mph. easy to get the truck 'wagging'.

SPRINGY!!! way too much boing for me - i can set this whole thing off like a jelly with one hand !!

rear lights unpredictable - maybe a new loom needed.

what i need:

recommends for a good shop to take her to in LA - to have her fully checked out.

how do i get the doors fixed - is it a complete new front end plus door posts all round ? - if so should i go fiberglass... ?

how do i **** the bounce ? - new shocks - new springs - lower it all ??

how do i reduce the power assist - is there a valve or something to ratchet down ?

any chance i can quieten her down - slightly - can i attach mufflers that wont choke her up ?

considering its a 351 with that huge Holley on there - she's sloooow - it like there is a slip diff soaking up all the push - anything i should be looking at ?

recommends for buying panels piecemeal - or just go for a new glass tub ?

erm - anything else you can tell me that'll help

any recommends greatly appreciated.

its gonna be a long haul...

will update when i make progress.

Monza

 

[Bully Bob]

WOW...!

The "good", the "bad", & the "ugly"...!

The good;

looks like a good start, ....all the aft. mkt. stuff sounds good.

The bad;

any good shop that can insp. & set that truck right is going to charge mega $$$$.

The ugly;

doing it yourself will make you the "expert" when you're thru.

Brakes is brakes, you just have to visually find the prob. & or step by step; clean, insp., test & replace.

Power assist.....? may have been installed for rock'n. May want to abandon it & go with just pwr. str.

Boing is prob. just shot shocks....that lift setup is fine.

Yah, "mufflers" good choice.

Sounds like there's still trannie issues.

Take all the front sheetmetal off & replace as needed. prob. much cheaper that way.

Door posts are another issue.....may want to "roadster" it.

Yep, ...down the line you may need a diff. body. Coating may be what's holding it together.

Wires can be repaired....locate the prob.

----"she's been faltless" ---- Huh...?

HTH

Bob

 

[Broncoholics]

Looks like a good starter rig to me. Most EB's will have some rust somewhere and will need replacement. Fiberglass is nice looking until it comes in contact with something.

Duff has a good 70/30 shock that does very well for the price. Sounds like you want more control so you should look into the Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks so you can dial in what you like. These get more spendy though.

I remember when I got new exhaust, sounded like a ricer. Say what? Out those came and in went Flow Masters. Guess what I'm saying is if you like it quiet its doable.

 

[monza]

well this helps for starters.

dont be too ******* the truck - she starts and runs great

just gotta get control of the damn wheels.

new shocks is a big help - that aint so xpensive.

will look at the Duff 70/30 shocks - i dont think i am so fussy i need to be able to dial the shocks - i just want to **** the bouncy castle - a firm ride is pref - any other shock recommends, what about WH kit - any good ? - can i just go into an autozone or do i need special bronco shops ?

i fig there might be new brake shoes in one of the front drums - causing the pull...

convert to discs should cure it i guess - is Duff the way to go for Disc brake conversions - or is there a better option ?

its mostly the slack in the steering and the bounce i need to tame

I just want a shop to check the steering, bearings, linkages an all that stuff

not nec fix it for me - - as i said i am learning as i go.

pretty sure i read somethin about a bleed valve to adjust power steering... somewhere... - i can always scrap the power steering and start over with anthr if needs be.

got the rear wiring working - no science just plain fiddling - bingo.

why u say sounds like tranny probs ?

where should i look for mufflers

i dont mind the noise - jus dont want to attract unnecessary attention from the blueboys.

i fig i am going to deal with the mechanicals

i can make out with a beat up body - but the lump and running gear have got to be sorted.

a new body can come down the line.

offer me a little hope

it'll keep me smiling.

thx so far,

monza.

 

[Bully Bob]

70/30 's aren't all they're cracked up to be...and yes, AZones shocks are good & are made by Gabriel...they (Gabriel) also make Monroe. Just don't get the cheapest one.

Don't mean to be so rough....just going by what you said.

Get it up on jack stands (on the frame) this allows the suspension to hang there....then start wiggling things. wheels back & forth, up & down. it's pretty obvious what should move & what shouldn't.

Do the same with the stands under the axle tubes...check the wheels & steering.

That's what they'll do (shop)

Just trying to save you $$$

Pull the drums & have a LOOK....could be something simple & cheap to get you by for a while.

Drums are great when set up correctly....& discs aren't a "be all/end all"

Not sure on your steering....sounds like you have reg. power steering with a "ram assist" as well, ... you didn't say. Most steering play is in the box....then the trac bar....& ball joints & tie-rod ends.

Ram assist can really be ******* steering components.

-----" it like there is a slip diff soaking up all the push - anything i should be looking at ?" ------

Don't think this is possible....that's why I'm suspecious of the trannie...

Most towns have a "Joes" muffler shop..... they can advise or add some inexpensive mufflers. Stay away fr. the National chain ****. shops.

You have a good start....just need to iron out the "safety issues"

 

[Broncoholics]

I've never run Wildhorsees shocks but I'd think they're fine. For a lifted Bronco I'd personally run one from a Bronco Vendor as they've been tested to work the best for the Bronco at that height. The biggest thing you need to figure out is how you want it to control. A 70/30 is going to soft and can still bounce so you might want dual shocks up front or just stay with a single stiff Rancho 5000 if you want to keep price down.

You can change to disc brakes by geting the spindles out from an 85 Blazer or go from the knuckle out on an F150 or 78-79 Bronco. You will need the steering as the F150 has a larger tie-rod.

Drums work well untell the get wet. Look around but you might just have air in the line which is the usual sign of a brake pull.

You can adjust the steering slop by loosening the nut on top of the box and turning the allen ***** 1/4 turn at a time and testing the steering after each time. You don't want to mess with this much as its meshing the gears closer together. If you get it too tight then it will wear the box out real quick.

Most times you don't need to adjust this ***** its all in the tie-rods, trac bar, wheel bearings and ball joints.

The best way I found is to keep the truck on the ground and have a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth (moving quickly & lots of movement) with engine off. This will show you if the trac bar bushings are shot. Look up at the frame where the bar is held in which the steering is moving. I bet this is where you will find lots of movement. If not look at where it connects to the axle. Then look at the tie-rods for movement.

Then you can jack up a wheel and see if you get a wobble. If so look to see if its a ball joint or the wheel bearing that is moving.

 

[walkercreekbronco]

I don't have MY Bronco on the road yet, but after replacing floor pans, rocker panels, 1 door post, inner fenders, front fenders, core support, and patching countless rust holes, I will say I won't do that again. I'd say seriously consider fiberglass tub unless you are an experienced body man with access to all the right tools (especially a sandblaster). I've done so much work, and I'm pretty sure I've missed some rust that'll show back up in a few years.

 

[monza]

...I'd say seriously consider fiberglass tub unless you are an experienced body man with access to all the right tools (especially a sandblaster). I've done so much work, and I'm pretty sure I've missed some rust that'll show back up in a few years.

interesting perspective

i had already decided to get the mechs sorted and live with the body.

if the mechs come good - then i will consider splashing on the body.

like you i dont have the toolset for serious metal work...

thx for the insight.

Monza

You can change to disc brakes by geting the spindles out from an 85 Blazer...

you might just have air in the line which is the usual sign of a brake pull.

You can adjust the steering slop by loosening the nut on top of the box and turning the allen ***** 1/4 turn at a time and testing the steering after each time.

thx,

this truck vame with a disc brake conversion - but is missing spindles - i remember the guy telling me i needed to pull the spindles from some chevy or other - looks like the blazer is the answer.

i have looked at the steering.

(for ref the power sterring is off 76 Bronco - there is no other 'assist'.)

from the wheel thru steer shaft to the junction at the steering box every millimeter is transmitted. its at the box that i have +- 5degrees play.

mbe the allen ***** adjust will reduce this.

thx for the tip.

Monza

AZones shocks are good & are made by Gabriel...they (Gabriel) also make Monroe. Just don't get the cheapest one.

Get it up on jack stands (on the frame) this allows the suspension to hang there....

Do the same with the stands under the axle tubes...check the wheels & steering.

Pull the drums & have a LOOK....

Not sure on your steering....sounds like you have reg. power steering with a "ram assist" as well, ... you didn't say. Most steering play is in the box....then the trac bar....& ball joints & tie-rod ends.

-----" it like there is a slip diff soaking up all the push - anything i should be looking at ?" ------

Don't think this is possible....that's why I'm suspecious of the trannie...

Most towns have a "Joes" muffler shop..... Stay away fr. the National chain ****. shops.

okay need to get some jack stnds.thx.

where are the axle tubes ?

steering is regular pwr steer from a 76 bronco.

movement from wheel thru shaft to box is fine. have +-5 degrees play at the box junction.

maybe i am just unuse to large capoacity engines with auto transmission

i am used to 2litre perfprmance engines with manual trans.

will look for joes Muffs. thx.

Monza

hey can i get any 3 point harness / seat belt to replace lap belt - or do i have to get them to fit an EB ?

Monza.

 

[Broncoholics]

I'd think any harness would work as long as its the correct length.

 

[monza]

okay time for action:

off to autozone...

jack stands

new shocks

they have rancho 5000 and 9000 for 3.5" lift.

they have a bunch of monroe shocks - which look pretty solid too

the monroes dont say whether they can be used on a 3.5" lift - any advice ?

will i need any special tools to swap out the old shocks with the new ??

thx again team,

Monza.

 

[monza]

i am worried that the truck has had a 'partial' lift.

prev owner tells me its a 3.5" lift.

BC coils

WH 11 pack

shocks are all crapped out (as discussed)

i cant find eveidence of any 'after lift' mods to deal with the extra 3.5"

reading the forums - there are a bunch of things that can go wrong...

for sure my pitman arm is flat (no drop)

since i am having steering and susp problems - i wondered if a bad lift could be part of the problem.

Where do i look to see if the body is lifted - i cant find a stack of 3.5" bushings enywhere.

i need to figure:

1. is the susp for a 3.5" lift (i think it is)

2. has the body been lifted

3. has the after lift work been done.

tell me where to look to assess the situation.

thx gang,

Monza.

 

[monza]

IYou can adjust the steering slop by loosening the nut on top of the box and turning the allen ***** 1/4 turn at a time and testing the steering after each time. You don't want to mess with this much as its meshing the gears closer together. If you get it too tight then it will wear the box out real quick...

hey BH,

i tweeked the hex ****** whilst twisting the shaft back and forth - i felt the gears tighten up.

its made a big difference. It also makes the power steer feel more connected to the road.

thx dude

now to get on with the rest...

monza