new to bronco looking at a 92 351
- Thread starter madmaysey
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When in doubt, keep shopping. The 92 Bronco will have the E4OD auto or the C6 auto (no OD=overdrive). While a C6 is $300-$400 a used E4OD is $600-up. The E4OD can also cost up to $3000 to rebuild at a tranny shop. It'll cost $300 labor just to pull the tranny. just my $0.02, JSM84
Broncobill78
New member
Man, gotta admit it's a little difficult to understand. Just what are the terms of the deal ? It sounds like this is some sort ot partial trade + cash deal. You're getting the truck & some cash in return for what ? Remembering once again that without all the details it's hard to figure things well but here it is as I see it. Book value on the truck is hard to determine because with 200K and a bad tranny I would have to consider it in "poor" condition rather than "fair" condition and Kelly & the others don't even attempt to appraise vehciles in poor condition, but having said, that a 92' Bronco in "fair" condition is deemed worth $2200 in a private transaction (yes, yes, yes, I know book value can be all over the place but sometimes it's the only yardstick we have) so I'm guessing that THIS truck is worth maybe $1500 to $1700 (with the $1700 value assuming the rest of the truck is freaking cherry and it ONLY needs a $2500 tranny rebuild) so as I'm seeing it this deal is worth about $4500-$4700 to you. I don't know what you're trading him but if it's worth $5K then you're getting hosed and if it's worth $3K you're making out.
This is one of those times when you need to look at the truck & decide what you want, how much you want it & how much work you want to put into the project. A 92' Bronco can be a sweet ride, especially if it's a clean truck that you picked up for cheap and were able to fix. I'm one of those guys who enjoys building the truck more than I enjoy driving it, so if I can pick up a good project for a great deal than I'm all over it (but yeah, this is coming from the guy with an OJ Simpson lawn ornament with a busted flywheel in his front yard). If you can use the tranny issue to low-ball him on the price (tell him you'll go $3750 AND his truck since it's such a basket case and whatever it is you're trading him is so freaking cherry it's worth the extra $750 and his truck needs so much work he should be happy anyone's even interested in it at all. That sort of thing) then sure, I'd run with it but like JSM said there are plenty of others out there so don't be afraid to keep looking. Everything will revolve around how much truck you want and how much work you're willing to put into the project. You may be looking for awhile if you want a turn-key truck but if you're willing to do some work (like swapping/rebuilding trannys) then you can frequently score a good truck an excellent price, granted you'll have some work to do but if you're capable of doing it yourself instead of writing checks to someone else then you can really score some deals by keeping your eyes open and negotiating strongly. This guy's gonna have trouble selling a 92' Bronco with a blown tranny for anything more than $1200-$1500 unless he finds himself a fool and he *knows* this, tell him $3750 + the truck and if he balks then politely tell him it just isn't worth any more than that to you considering just how much time & money will have to go into AND considering just how cherry the object you're trading him is but to keep your number and call if he changes his mind because you're not in a hurry and you think his truck can be salvaged with enough time, money & patience. If he doesn't have any reciepts or other proof that a rebuilt engine went in there 15K ago then as far as you should be concerned it DIDN'T, and you shouldn't be afraid to tell him as much, call his bluff, that scam is older than time itself. If he can't prove it then it didn't happen. Maybe AN engine went in there 15K ago but it was more than likely a $300 100K junkyard engine. If it had been a rebuild he would have KEPT the reciept just like any other sane individual. And as far as quoting Craigslist as a source of both parts and prices, well, have you ever MET any of the people who sell parts there ? Some of them are guys like the ones here on this forum who know what they're doing, what they're talking about & what they have, others are just guys with a hammer & torch who figured out how to remove a transfer case and want to be rewarded for that with money and then there are the guys who saw something that looked like a transmission to them and it happened to be in the driveway of a house that had a Bronco in the yard so after they stole it one night that's what they decided to sell it as. Craigslist is a freaking circus if you want to know what a used tranny for the truck will cost then call a local junkyard and ask them & then tell the clown quoting CL prices to do the same.
Sorry, didn't mean to drag that one out quite so badly. Hope that gives you something to work with. If you're *able* to do the work that this truck seems to need AND you can force the price down to something that makes it worthwhile then sure, I'd do it but those are a lot of big IF's, if you can't get your price or you aren't comfortable with doing what will need to be done then sure, walk away and find another one. Granted it can be harder to find something when it's a swap & partial pay deal but if you're patient you should be able to find something you're happy with and if you're hard-nosed about negotiating then you'll be that much happier with your score.
Just to add to what JSM said, the C6 IS a much easier tranny to find & much cheaper to rebuild BUT you're be a LOT happier with an E4OD with the overdrive because as a daily driver that overdrive will make a real difference at the pump (and in your wallet) but unfortunately as he said it can easily run from $2K to $3K for a complete rebuild if the thing is blown badly and even a *bench* rebuild will run you upwards of $1750. Before negotiating further ck with a couple local tranny rebuilders to see what they charge. It's not going to be any deal at all if this guy peels $1K off what he hands you in cash by slapping a $400 junkyard E4od in there that YOU wind up having to rebuild 15K down the road. I wouldn't trust a guy like this to do ANY work for me especially when it's going to be in his best interest to buy the cheapest parts available and he'll have NO incentive at all to do any sort of quality job on the instalation, he's just trying to get it done as quickly & cheaply as possible and then dump it on you. Make the best deal you can but buy it AS IS and never trust the seller to do major repairs like this. Buy it dirt cheap and do the work yourself, doing otherwise is really tempting fate.
This is one of those times when you need to look at the truck & decide what you want, how much you want it & how much work you want to put into the project. A 92' Bronco can be a sweet ride, especially if it's a clean truck that you picked up for cheap and were able to fix. I'm one of those guys who enjoys building the truck more than I enjoy driving it, so if I can pick up a good project for a great deal than I'm all over it (but yeah, this is coming from the guy with an OJ Simpson lawn ornament with a busted flywheel in his front yard). If you can use the tranny issue to low-ball him on the price (tell him you'll go $3750 AND his truck since it's such a basket case and whatever it is you're trading him is so freaking cherry it's worth the extra $750 and his truck needs so much work he should be happy anyone's even interested in it at all. That sort of thing) then sure, I'd run with it but like JSM said there are plenty of others out there so don't be afraid to keep looking. Everything will revolve around how much truck you want and how much work you're willing to put into the project. You may be looking for awhile if you want a turn-key truck but if you're willing to do some work (like swapping/rebuilding trannys) then you can frequently score a good truck an excellent price, granted you'll have some work to do but if you're capable of doing it yourself instead of writing checks to someone else then you can really score some deals by keeping your eyes open and negotiating strongly. This guy's gonna have trouble selling a 92' Bronco with a blown tranny for anything more than $1200-$1500 unless he finds himself a fool and he *knows* this, tell him $3750 + the truck and if he balks then politely tell him it just isn't worth any more than that to you considering just how much time & money will have to go into AND considering just how cherry the object you're trading him is but to keep your number and call if he changes his mind because you're not in a hurry and you think his truck can be salvaged with enough time, money & patience. If he doesn't have any reciepts or other proof that a rebuilt engine went in there 15K ago then as far as you should be concerned it DIDN'T, and you shouldn't be afraid to tell him as much, call his bluff, that scam is older than time itself. If he can't prove it then it didn't happen. Maybe AN engine went in there 15K ago but it was more than likely a $300 100K junkyard engine. If it had been a rebuild he would have KEPT the reciept just like any other sane individual. And as far as quoting Craigslist as a source of both parts and prices, well, have you ever MET any of the people who sell parts there ? Some of them are guys like the ones here on this forum who know what they're doing, what they're talking about & what they have, others are just guys with a hammer & torch who figured out how to remove a transfer case and want to be rewarded for that with money and then there are the guys who saw something that looked like a transmission to them and it happened to be in the driveway of a house that had a Bronco in the yard so after they stole it one night that's what they decided to sell it as. Craigslist is a freaking circus if you want to know what a used tranny for the truck will cost then call a local junkyard and ask them & then tell the clown quoting CL prices to do the same.
Sorry, didn't mean to drag that one out quite so badly. Hope that gives you something to work with. If you're *able* to do the work that this truck seems to need AND you can force the price down to something that makes it worthwhile then sure, I'd do it but those are a lot of big IF's, if you can't get your price or you aren't comfortable with doing what will need to be done then sure, walk away and find another one. Granted it can be harder to find something when it's a swap & partial pay deal but if you're patient you should be able to find something you're happy with and if you're hard-nosed about negotiating then you'll be that much happier with your score.
Just to add to what JSM said, the C6 IS a much easier tranny to find & much cheaper to rebuild BUT you're be a LOT happier with an E4OD with the overdrive because as a daily driver that overdrive will make a real difference at the pump (and in your wallet) but unfortunately as he said it can easily run from $2K to $3K for a complete rebuild if the thing is blown badly and even a *bench* rebuild will run you upwards of $1750. Before negotiating further ck with a couple local tranny rebuilders to see what they charge. It's not going to be any deal at all if this guy peels $1K off what he hands you in cash by slapping a $400 junkyard E4od in there that YOU wind up having to rebuild 15K down the road. I wouldn't trust a guy like this to do ANY work for me especially when it's going to be in his best interest to buy the cheapest parts available and he'll have NO incentive at all to do any sort of quality job on the instalation, he's just trying to get it done as quickly & cheaply as possible and then dump it on you. Make the best deal you can but buy it AS IS and never trust the seller to do major repairs like this. Buy it dirt cheap and do the work yourself, doing otherwise is really tempting fate.
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I am trying to trade a 1998 Prelude in almost mint condition. It KBB's at $8500 but im asking $7000 cash for it or trade for a 4x4 daily driver and cash(im buying a house and need cash)
he is offering me the Bronco and 2k - 3k...his asking price is $4500
P.S. if you pull the camper off the bronco how well does it work as a pick up truck for a day?
he is offering me the Bronco and 2k - 3k...his asking price is $4500
P.S. if you pull the camper off the bronco how well does it work as a pick up truck for a day?
$4500 is way too much for the 92 Bronco with a bad tranny. $1500 tops if the body is mint and there is no rust.
Broncobill78
New member
No way. Don't just walk away from this deal, RUN. I'm with JSM84 there's no way that truck is worth a dime over $1500 w/200K and a bad tranny *even if* the body & interior were perfect and it really DID get a *new* motor 15K back (but again, if he can't produce a reciept for it then I strongly doubt anything was done at all and even if it was it was most likely a used engine. If he feels saavy enough to offer to replace the tranny then he's also capable of changing an engine himself which is probably why he doesn't have any reciepts for the work claimed) He may reel in some poor sucker but don't let it be you. For this deal to be worth anything to you it should be the truck + $5500-$6000. Whomever winds up with that Bronco is going to have to dump $3K or more into it right off the bat just to *make* it a daily driver. I've seen a LOT of guys & trucks like this and he won't start getting ralistic about the price for another 8 or 9 months.
As for taking the cap off, sure Broncos work just fine as pickups. The rear seat has a latch on the back to remove it and the front mounts use cotter pins so the whole thing comes out in less than 5 minutes leaving you with a cargo bed that's roughly the same size as what you get with a step-side pickup only instead of a stepside pickup you have the much more desirable and attractive Bronco that the guy with the stepside looks at with envy every time you drive past.
You Honda is worth some good coin, you should be able to score a late-model Bronco and $4k-$5K in cash. Keep looking and don't be shy about posting again if you get another offer.
As for taking the cap off, sure Broncos work just fine as pickups. The rear seat has a latch on the back to remove it and the front mounts use cotter pins so the whole thing comes out in less than 5 minutes leaving you with a cargo bed that's roughly the same size as what you get with a step-side pickup only instead of a stepside pickup you have the much more desirable and attractive Bronco that the guy with the stepside looks at with envy every time you drive past.
You Honda is worth some good coin, you should be able to score a late-model Bronco and $4k-$5K in cash. Keep looking and don't be shy about posting again if you get another offer.
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check this one out...
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/516794806.html
and ideas on what i should ask/look out for?
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/516794806.html
and ideas on what i should ask/look out for?
Broncobill78
New member
That's a much better looking truck. $3K seems a little high for a 20yr old truck but it's not totally unreasonable considering what it has going for it. The seller is the original owner & guys who keep the same truck for 20yrs generally take pretty good care of it. In addition to the manual hubs it *also* has a manually shifted transfer case instead of the electric pushbutton case and that's a BIG plus. The body is straight and being an Az truck I'm sure there's not a spot of rust or rot anywhere on it & he had the entire thing reupholstered 2 yrs ago. I'd get over there to look at it. If it's as-advertised then it's well worth the asking price.
Broncobill78
New member
The majority of late model Broncos (probably 75% back in 88' & closer to 90% by 96') came with automatic hubs & transfer cases. Hubs come in two varities, manual & auto. Manual hubs are exactly that, manual. In order to lock them you have to manually turn the dial on each hub to lock or unlock it. Automatic hubs engage automatically thru centrifugal motion. As the wheel rotates the hub spins into the locked position. Auto hubs have the "advantage" of not requiring you to get out of the cab to lock them but this is outweighed by the DISadvantage of having them unlock themselves whenever the wheels change direction, so if you back up a few feet they'll *automatically* unlock themselvs. This is not always advantageous when you're stuck in the mud or deep snow and it makes rocking yourself out of a stuck pretty much impossible. Manual hubs are much more robust and rarely ever fail, automatic hubs die with obscene regularity. In prolonged poor weather, such as winter in New England, it's no big deal to just lock your hubs in October & leave them locked until March, but the marketing agencies for SUV mfg's convinced all the soccer mom's that auto hubs were the way to go because they wouldn't have to he hopping in & out of that big ole' truck all the time to lock & unlock the hubs. Nothing but propaganda to sell a more expensive option of course but a lot of people fell for it.
The auto transfer case is pretty much the same deal. Manual cases are pretty straightforward, you have a shift lever on the floor that allows you to shift between 2WD, neutral, 4WD-high gear & 4WD-low gear. The automatic case has an electric motor bolted to the case & 2 pushbuttons on the dash 1 for 4-wheel drive & 1 for Low range. Push the button & the electric motor shifts the transfer case onto the chosen gear. The reasons for doing this are pretty much the same but the disadvantages outweigh the advantages by an even greater margin. The only real advantage is that manual cases can sometimes be hard to shift if 4WD hasn't been used in awhile and 4lo can be difficult to shift in and out of on accasion. The electric shift eliminates that but it intoduces a whole new collection of failure modes. There are thousands & thousands of 4x4's out there that are 2WD because of electrical problems with the automatic shifter. When the switchs wear out you can't shift, when the motor burns out you can't shift, if the connectors corrode you can't shift, and it just goes on & on. Most 4x4 enthusiasts hate the things and want to swap over to full manual but the later the model year the fewer manual trucks were built so the parts can be hard to find and are becoming pricey. To complicate the problem the transfer cases are completely different so swapping from auto to manual requires you to find, purchase & install an entirely new xfer case.
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ok so i got an email saying this from this seller
the bronco has a v8 302 the only real problem it has is that the ac does not work but u would need a new compresser to fix it also the tread is maybe 50% but other than that the bronco is fine it has its minor problems but u would have to come see it and will maybe be able to make a deal
that sort of raises a little concern for me to be weary of other things.
what is the price range for ac repair assuming he doesn't know quite whats wrong with the ac and it might be more than just the compressor going out?
the bronco has a v8 302 the only real problem it has is that the ac does not work but u would need a new compresser to fix it also the tread is maybe 50% but other than that the bronco is fine it has its minor problems but u would have to come see it and will maybe be able to make a deal
that sort of raises a little concern for me to be weary of other things.
what is the price range for ac repair assuming he doesn't know quite whats wrong with the ac and it might be more than just the compressor going out?
That is a clean-looking Bronco, and perhaps a fair price if nothing major is wrong. One aspect of the 87 and early-88 Broncos is a unique design of the front hubs. ASk the owner or look for the build date, as well as what type of hubs it has. If they're the "hat style" or unique 1-piece design, it's very difficult to find replacement or upgrade parts for it, like aftermarket locking hubs. You might do some searching on the forums for the 87/88 hubs before buying, My 88 Bronc had the normal type hubs found on other 80-96 broncos, JSM84
here's a conversion kit sold by Bronco Graveyard:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32136_..._conversion.htm
Quote, "Manual hubs are much more robust and rarely ever fail, automatic hubs die with obscene regularity." I like the way you put that BB78, and it's quite true!!! Word...
here's a conversion kit sold by Bronco Graveyard:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32136_..._conversion.htm
Quote, "Manual hubs are much more robust and rarely ever fail, automatic hubs die with obscene regularity." I like the way you put that BB78, and it's quite true!!! Word...
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Broncobill78
New member
It sounds to me like he's already willing to come down off his price. I know that out in Pheonix the AC will be a major issue. A new compressor will run you $209 from the Graveyard http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30685_..._compressor.htm I have no idea what a shop would charge you. One thing to ask the owner about is if he's converted it from R12 to R134a. If he *hasn't* converted it then you'll have to. It's not a terribly big deal, you need to evacuate the system, change all the O-rings (the R12 O-rings aren't compatable with R134a), eveacuate it again and then dump in the R134a, somewhere in there you'll also replace the compressor. I'd call a local AC shop & ask them for a ballpark quote, tell them you're looking at an 88' Bronco with a bad compressor & want to know what it will run you to replace the compressor & convert to R134a. Chances are you can get it done more cheaply if you buy the compressor yourself and have your own mechanic do the installation/conversion but the quote fromthe AC shop will give you leverage when you haggle. I'd take a guess that you'd be looking at $350 or so to replace just the compressor (assuming you get the compressor yourself for $200 or so and don't let a shop charge you $400 for the same thing) and maybe $600-$750 to convert from R12 to R134a but those are just guesses and maybe someone who's actually had it done will chime in.
Arm yourself with some quotes & info and go take a look at it. He sounds like he's ready to come down on his price right off the bat and if you can tell him you've already gotten quotes to have the work done you may well be able to get him down into the $2K neighborhood. No doubt it will have other problems, but again it ALREADY has manual hubs & a manual T-case which are big steps in the right direction and as the original owner I'd be surprised if he *didn't* take care of it, especially considering how good it looks. If you can get him down around $2K I'd say it's a very good truck, **** it's not a bad truck at $3K as long as the AC is the only significant issue, $3K is top dollar for an 88' but this one looks to be worth it, just need to go & see it for yourself. Tires are tires & you can't expect too much as far as those go & you can usually pickup a decent set of replacements off Craigslist anyways but again you can use that as a bargaining tool. If you get a quote for say $800 for the AC then offer him $1800 & justify it by saying you'll need to put at least $1200 into it between tires & AC. Chances are you can get him down to at least $2500, maybe $2250. Don't get me wrong, That's one of the cleanest looking 88's I've seen and with the *entire* interior redone just 2yrs ago it's a VERY nice truck and someone who treats his truck like AND bought it new & hung onto it for 20yrs has almost *got* to be the sort of guy who changes the oil every 3K and fixes things when they break instead of driving it for a year & a half before getting around to it. I suspect that you'll find it to be in very good shape $3K is not outrageous for a very clean/well cared for truck but if you *can* get it for less you should certainly try to.
JSM84, man, now you've got me all worked up over my *own* hubs. I have no idea if it's an early or late 88' (still wrangling with Ford for the build sheet) and I really hadn't paid much attention to the hubs other than to know they were autos and figured I'd be swapping them out. I was planning to go with Warns but wanted to look into the MileMarker conversion kit first. Are you telling me these hubs are the red-headed stepchild of the Ford family ? Here's a photo of what I've got (pls excuse the nasty wagon wheels) any info will be appreciated.
Arm yourself with some quotes & info and go take a look at it. He sounds like he's ready to come down on his price right off the bat and if you can tell him you've already gotten quotes to have the work done you may well be able to get him down into the $2K neighborhood. No doubt it will have other problems, but again it ALREADY has manual hubs & a manual T-case which are big steps in the right direction and as the original owner I'd be surprised if he *didn't* take care of it, especially considering how good it looks. If you can get him down around $2K I'd say it's a very good truck, **** it's not a bad truck at $3K as long as the AC is the only significant issue, $3K is top dollar for an 88' but this one looks to be worth it, just need to go & see it for yourself. Tires are tires & you can't expect too much as far as those go & you can usually pickup a decent set of replacements off Craigslist anyways but again you can use that as a bargaining tool. If you get a quote for say $800 for the AC then offer him $1800 & justify it by saying you'll need to put at least $1200 into it between tires & AC. Chances are you can get him down to at least $2500, maybe $2250. Don't get me wrong, That's one of the cleanest looking 88's I've seen and with the *entire* interior redone just 2yrs ago it's a VERY nice truck and someone who treats his truck like AND bought it new & hung onto it for 20yrs has almost *got* to be the sort of guy who changes the oil every 3K and fixes things when they break instead of driving it for a year & a half before getting around to it. I suspect that you'll find it to be in very good shape $3K is not outrageous for a very clean/well cared for truck but if you *can* get it for less you should certainly try to.
JSM84, man, now you've got me all worked up over my *own* hubs. I have no idea if it's an early or late 88' (still wrangling with Ford for the build sheet) and I really hadn't paid much attention to the hubs other than to know they were autos and figured I'd be swapping them out. I was planning to go with Warns but wanted to look into the MileMarker conversion kit first. Are you telling me these hubs are the red-headed stepchild of the Ford family ? Here's a photo of what I've got (pls excuse the nasty wagon wheels) any info will be appreciated.
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check out these bikes he is trying to sweeten the deal with...
msg:
This is for sale on two bikes!
They may be purchased both for $3000 or individually.
The top picture is of a 2001 Yamaha TTR 250 for $2100
and the bottom picture is of a 1990 Suzuki DRZ-350 for $900.
<br>I am the 2nd owner of this TTR 250.
It has served my son well over the years and now he has grown up and is looking for extra money for a car.
The bike is a great bike for big bike beginners or someone just looking to go trail riding.
The bike has six gears and rides strong through sand and hard pack.
It glides over rutes smoothly with its soft suspension.
The bike has and electric start and has never failed to start.
The gas tank has some scratches do to the previous rider because he wore knee braces.
<a href="http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00342.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00343.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00344.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00345.jpg" border="0"></a>
<br>
<br>
<br>
The Suzuki DRZ is an older bike!! Year 1990 but runs very strong.
It use to be street legal but
the owner before me rebuilt the bike and made it stickly for dirt use only!
The bike has a FMF exhaust kit, a Z45 Mikuni carburator on it,and a 6 speed transmission!The bike has a desert 5 gal. gas tank for good distance riding.
The paint is flaking off from the years and the carb might need some work done to it but this bike is well worth it.
<br><big><big><big>Caution</big></big></big>
<br>
This bike is not for beginners!!!!!
The bike might look old! But still Kicks Ass!!!
This bike for experienced riders!
It has enormous power and is very heavy!
The bike was built to ride on highways at highway speeds originally but this bike is now only for use off road. It can reach those highway speeds on dirt very fast!!!!
The bike is well built and should last for many years to come!
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00338.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00339.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00340.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00341.jpg" border="0"></a>
msg:
This is for sale on two bikes!
They may be purchased both for $3000 or individually.
The top picture is of a 2001 Yamaha TTR 250 for $2100
and the bottom picture is of a 1990 Suzuki DRZ-350 for $900.
<br>I am the 2nd owner of this TTR 250.
It has served my son well over the years and now he has grown up and is looking for extra money for a car.
The bike is a great bike for big bike beginners or someone just looking to go trail riding.
The bike has six gears and rides strong through sand and hard pack.
It glides over rutes smoothly with its soft suspension.
The bike has and electric start and has never failed to start.
The gas tank has some scratches do to the previous rider because he wore knee braces.
<a href="http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com"'>http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/psychoholiday_911/DVC00342.jpg" border="0"></a>
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The Suzuki DRZ is an older bike!! Year 1990 but runs very strong.
It use to be street legal but
the owner before me rebuilt the bike and made it stickly for dirt use only!
The bike has a FMF exhaust kit, a Z45 Mikuni carburator on it,and a 6 speed transmission!The bike has a desert 5 gal. gas tank for good distance riding.
The paint is flaking off from the years and the carb might need some work done to it but this bike is well worth it.
<br><big><big><big>Caution</big></big></big>
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This bike is not for beginners!!!!!
The bike might look old! But still Kicks Ass!!!
This bike for experienced riders!
It has enormous power and is very heavy!
The bike was built to ride on highways at highway speeds originally but this bike is now only for use off road. It can reach those highway speeds on dirt very fast!!!!
The bike is well built and should last for many years to come!
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Broncobill78
New member
What, is he throwing in the bikes & trying to offer a package deal ? Really don't know much about them myself, had a Kawasaki KZ250 as a young'un but figured out real quick it that it was just a faster way to get my a$$ to the hospital, besides pulling out my hair (that's why I have so little now) trying to sync a triple carb setup. Anyways, dunno if the bikes make the deal any more attractive to you personally or not but I think they make offer some insight into how he used the Bronco. He mentions in the ad that it's great in sand and with a couple of trail-only bikes he probably used it to tow them back & forth to the trailhead. That's probably why he had the foresight to buy a manual shift 4x4 and install manual hubs. It will be worth cking the dashboard on the lower right-hand side of the steering wheel to see if there are 2 pushbuttons for 4WD, if there *are* this would indicate that the truck originally came with an auto-shift transfer case and he upgraded it to a manual as well as upgrading the hubs to manuals. If he did any towing in the sand these would be modifications an intelligent man would make. Chances are you'll also find a trailer hitch on the truck if he towed with it. Two bikes & a trailer don't weigh very much but I'd also take a look to see if there's an aux transmission cooler because that would be a sensible upgrade if you're towing with an automatic. Also take a look at the transmission fluid, it should be nice & pink and not smell burnt. If you DO see a trailer hitch but *don't* see an aux cooler AND the tranny fluid is brownish & smells burnt then he's been towing a lot without the cooler and you should at the very least use that to drive the price down and depending on how it shifts possibly reconsider the purchase. As long as the trailer & bikes weren't *too* heavy there's a good chance the tranny will be fine with a fluid & filter change but again, use it to drive down the price.
yea it has a hitch and the wiring to control the breaks and stuff...how do i look for the aux, i will try to bring my mechanic(who also happens to be my best friend) with me and he will probably know what to look for but just incase what are the signs i need to see?
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