new to Bronc Zone (just got one)

[Return To Glory]

Hello all! Well when I was 17 I had a 1989 Bronco which I loved but I sold it because I couldn't afford the gas but I have kicked myself for years so I finely went an got another on at the age of 36. I got a great deal on another 89. my question is the Bronco has 194,000 miles on it and the engine leaks oil from more than the pan and lacks oil pressure(more than just the gauge) and pick up. I can get a engine with half the miles and 3 month warranty for 400 should I just replace the engine? How hard is it to do? If I do what should I replace when the engine is already out? Everything else works on it and no rust (perfect Interior) for 1,000 I got a good deal. Thanks for any help[/size][/size][/size]

 

[miesk5]

yo Return To Glory,

WELCOME!!

For any kind of swap, I have a bunch of Swap LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=541

Such as;

5.0 to 460 Swap in an 88

Source: by Dustin S @ http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/460/index.html

5.0 to 5.8 Swap in a 90

Source: by Bob K (RLKBOB) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4605/17017

5.0 to 460 EFI Swap in an 89; I put a 1994 EFI 460 and the E4OD transmission it came with in my 89 Bronco. The Bronco came with an EFI 302 with AOD transmission and BW 13-56 T-case. The motor was supposed to go into a 1994 F-350 but the chassis was pulled off the assembly line for a QA inspection. Since the engine and transmission were already together, and the next truck on the assembly line wasn't an F-350, they dropped the engine/transmission onto a pallet, shipped it to Leanard Vasholtz of Pikes Peak Hillclimb fame (he races Bronco's up Pikes Peak every July 4) and I bought it from him for $4k. I used my original BW 13-56 t-case because it was the t-case they were using behind that combo in 1994, and it was a bolt on. Never had a problem with it and it has been beat to death offroad, towing, etc. Your best bet is to either find a complete donor vehicle from which to take all the parts out of, or check into your local FORD dealer and see if they have the EFI 460's for sale as a crate motor. I had to buy the ECM (460 computer), chassis wiring harness from a 1994 F-350 and splice it to the existing 1989 harness to get everything to work properly. The engine comes with a harness on it which includes all the wiring for the engine sensors. It connects to a weather tight plug that then connects the engine harness to the ECM. It's kind of modular. Same goes for the E4OD. It has a harness which is for the transmission and t-case sensors and it connects to a plug that then connects the transmission to the ECM. These can be seen if you look under the hood near the black plastic fuse box that sits on the wheel well on the drivers side. To make everything easier, I also bought the FORD EFI manual, the HELM wiring Schematics for both the 1994 and 1989 model year light trucks, and the HELM service manuals for the 1994 Light Trucks. The wiring schematics have all the circuit ID's and color codes for both model years, and most of them match exactly. All I did was splice the 1994 underhood harness to the 1989 harness where it meets the firewall. It's a lot of work, believe me. Took me 2 days to drop in the motor and transmission and 7 weekends to wire it all! I used L&L motor mounts, custom fabricated the shift linkage for the E4OD because it is a cable operated shifter and my 89's was a bell crank style. I had to fabricate a custom t-case mount support and cross member, and mounted the transmission to it also. I had to buy a 4 core Big Block radiator which was a bolt in, and added 2, B&M Transmission Coolers. I had to buy a remote oil filter kit from Transdapt because the stock filter hits the frame cross-member. The 460 air cleaner mounts in the same exact location as a stock 91 would. I ended up buying a K&N Filtercharger kit and it mounts in the same place also. If you find that getting all the parts is too hard, you might seriously consider a late model 460, build it mildly and then run the Holley EFI system on it to gain the EFI advantages. IMHO, carbs went the way of the Dinosaur. I'll never own another carb'd truck again. I use mine more offroad than 90% of the 4WD's out there and EFI is the way to go hands down, end of story, period... Keep in mind, the stock FORD EFI system on the 460 is Speed Density and it won't run on anything but a stock 460. You can get away with a K&N Filter, plugs, headers and plug wires, but just about any other mod to the engine i.e.: cam, heads, intake, etc. would cause the air flow into the engine to be out of the calculated ranges burnt into their PROM of the ECM, so it would attempt to run at the end of this scale and that's it... It might work, it might not. If the system were the Mass Air type, typically found on Mustangs and the newer trucks, the engine can be modified and the ECM can handle it. If you are looking to run a cam, or anything other than pretty much box stock, go the Holley EFI route... It works, is simple to install compared to a FORD EFI system swap, and offers all the benefits of EFI without nearly the cost and aggravation."

Source: by Steve D at http://ford.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/converting-a-bronco-to-big-block-power-18947.html

etc.

and in my V8 section @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=182

351W Removal & Rebuild Instructions & pics in an 84 351W

Source: by Michael G at http://www.angelfire.com/ok5/84bronco/engine.html

357 (351W) Installation in an 89

Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/1725/14615

357 (351W) Installation Finishing in an 89

Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/1725/14625

Installation Tips

Source: by fordcobraengines.com @ http://www.fordcobraengines.com/installation.asp

SAFETY IS THE NUMBER 1 PRIORITY & THIS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY

Always have Work Area organized, Well Ventilated & properly Lit.

1 START BY DISCONNECTING YOUR BATTERY CABLES AND REMOVING BATTERY FROM YOUR VEHICLE, THIS ELIMINATES ANY POSSIBILITY OF SHORTING OUT ANY WIRES.

2 DISCONNECT FUEL LINES AS NECESSARY AND IMMEDIATELY CAP OFF. A WELL KNOWN METHOD IS TO INSERT A BOLT IN THE RUBBER FUEL LINE AND INSTALL A MINI CLAMP TO SEAL OFF LEAKING FUEL. USE EXTRA CAUTION ON FUEL INJECTED SYSTEMS, THE PRESSURE CAN BE 10 TIMES THE PRESSURE OF A CARBURETED SYSTEM. NEVER USE A DROP LIGHT WHEN WORKING NEAR GASOLINE OR FUMES, IF THE DROP LIGHT FALLS AND THE BULB BREAKS THE GLOWING FILAMENT CAN IGNITE THE GAS OR FUMES CAUSING AND INSTANT FIRE.

3 NEVER DISCONNECT ANY AIR CONDITION LINES ! THEY HAVE HIGH PRESSURE REFRIGERANT WHICH CAN CAUSE SEVERE BURNS OR EYE DAMAGE. IF THE AIR CONDITION COMPRESSOR MUST BE REMOVED LEAVE LINES ON COMPRESSOR, UNBOLT WITH THE LINES ATTACHED AND TIE COMPRESSOR UP OUT OF THE WAY WITH A PIECE OF ROPE TO THE INSIDE FENDER.

4 REMOVE HOOD BEING CAREFUL WITH HOOD SPRINGS AND HINGES MANY FINGERS HAVE BEEN LOST HERE. BEFORE LOOSENING HINGE BOLTS SCRIBE THEIR LOCATION FOR EASIER HOOD ALIGNMENT WHEN REINSTALLING HOOD.

5 TAG ANY WIRES AND VACUUM LINES FOR PROPER LOCATION ON REASSEMBLY.

6 KEEP ALL TOOLS CLEAN, AND USE PROPER SIZE SOCKETS.

7 USE SMALL PLASTIC BAGS AND A MAGIC MARKER TO PROPERLY IDENTIFY BOLTS THAT YOU TAKE OFF SO THEY CAN BE INSTALLED CORRECTLY IN THE PROPER LOCATION UPON REASSEMBLY.

8 ANY PARTS REMOVED SHOULD BE INSPECTED FOR WEAR OR FLAWS. KEEP A LIST OF NEW PARTS TO BE ORDERED.

9 WHEN IT TIME TO JACK UP YOUR VEHICLE TO DISCONNECT UNDER THE VEHICLE YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING—A JACK THAT HAS THE PROPER CAPACITY TO LIFT THE VEHICLE, JACK STANDS THAT HAVE THE PROPER CAPACITY TO SUPPORT THE VEHICLE ---- NEVER GO UNDER A VEHICLE THAT IS ONLY HELD UP BY A JACK. THE BEST WAY IS TO START OUT ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND CEMENT IS BEST, LIFT THE VEHICLE WITH THE JACK AT THE PROPER LIFTING POINTS THEN PROPERLY SET THE JACK STAND AND LOWER THE VEHICLE ON TO STAND. ONCE VEHICLE IS SAFELY LIFTED AND SECURED THEN USE A CREEPER TO GO UNDER IT. YOU WILL NEED SAFETY GLASSES BECAUSE ANYTHING YOU DISCONNECT UNDER VEHICLE WILL HAVE A LOT OF RUST AND ROAD DIRT ON IT.

10 MANY MECHANICS WILL TRY TO REMOVE THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION AS AN ASSEMBLY, THIS IS A JUDGMENT CALL. IF POSSIBLE IT MAY BE EASIER TO LINE UP THE TRANS & ENGINE WHEN IT IS OUT OF THE CHASSIS AS AN ASSEMBLY. BUT BE SURE THAT THE HOIST YOU’RE USING IS CAPABLE OF THE COMBINED WEIGHT OF ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY. IF YOU CHOOSE TO LEAVE THE TRANSMISSION IN THE CHASSIS, THEN PROPERLY SUPPORT IT BEFORE REMOVING ENGINE. BE SURE TO USE COMMON SENSE AT THIS POINT, YOU’LL BE LIFTING A LOT OF WEIGHT SO NEVER WORK UNDER AN ENGINE THAT IS UP IN THE AIR, LOWER IT FIRST, ALWAYS THINK OF IT THIS WAY, IF IT SLIPS OR FALLS WHERE WILL YOU BE. ALWAYS STAY CLEAR.

ITEMS THAT SHOULD BE REPLACED DURING INSTALLATION.

1. Many Times a Radiator Looks Acceptable. But the Truth of the Matter is the Tiny Little Tubes that the Coolant Flows through can be Partially Restricted and Cause Overheating & Engine Damage. You’ve made a Considerable Investment in an engine-Protect It! We recommend replacing the original Radiator with a 4 core Heavy Duty Radiator.

2. HOSES AND CLAMPS: HOSES CAN COLLAPSE, LEAK, OR **** AIR INTO SYSTEM, REPLACE ALL HOSES. CAUTION LOWER RADIATOR HOSE MUST CONTAIN A COIL SPRING INSIDE IT OR IT CAN COLLAPSE AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND STARVE BLOCK FOR COOLANT.

3. FAN SHROUD HELPS THE FAN PULL COOL AIR THROUGH THE RADIATOR, CHECK FOR CRACKS OR MISSING PIECES.

4. RADIATOR CAP --- MOST MODERN ENGINES REQUIRE A 14 LB. CAP. FOR EVERY LB. OF PRESSURE THAT YOU RAISE YOUR COOLING SYSTEM YOU RAISE YOUR BOILING POINT 2 DEGREES. EXAMPLE NORMAL BOILING POINT IS 212 DEGREES WITH A 14 LB. CAP YOUR BOILING POINT NOW BECOMES 240 DEGREES.

5. FAN AND OR FAN CLUTCH---- THIS IS IMPORTANT FOR PROPER COOLING. AN EASY WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF THE FAN IS PULLING THE PROPER AMOUNT OF AIR THROUGH THE RADIATOR, PLACE A PIECE OF NEWSPAPER ON THE FRONT OF THE RADIATOR IF THE FAN IS WORKING PROPERLY IT WILL PULL THE NEWSPAPER TIGHTLY AGAINST THE RADIATOR.

6. REPLACE FAN BELTS AND CHECK PULLEYS FOR CRACKS OR DAMAGE, A BROKEN $ 5.00 BELT COULD WASTE A $5,000 ENGINE.

7. MOTOR MOUNTS, A BROKEN OR SAGGED MOUNT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS VIBRATIONS.

8. CHECK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR ANY RUSTED OUT PARTS.

9. CHECK CLUTCH DISC, PRESSURE PLATE, THROW OUT AND PILOT BEARING FOR WEAR.

10. CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANS FOR LEAKS, BROKEN MOUNTS, OR LEAKY MODULATOR.

11. DRIVESHAFT--- CHECK UNIVERSAL JOINTS FOR WEAR

12. Look Over any Special Sensors or Switches. Replace as Necessary

READ MORE...---==

ID w/tags all electircal connectors 9take pis too)

ID all vacuum lines and components that need to be removed;

ID and bag all parts small parts, bolts, nuts and washers

for vac line diagrams see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=907

5.0 Parts Break-Out Diagram, Internal & External w/ Nomenclature

5.8 Parts Break-Out Diagram, Internal w/ Nomenclature

ETC.

---

Also, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyardhas offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.

One more..Forgot to mention soon in your profile, include your year, engine, trans, Xfer case & locking hub type (auto or manual) and any major mods such as body or suspension lift, etc. or in any question post. You'll get more accurate replies

 

[Return To Glory]

any tips on disconnecting the auto trans from the engine? this is the only thing I am nervous about.

 

[Krafty]

removing the engine from the trans is the easy part, its putting it back together that gets tricky, you just pull the motor to bellhousing bolts out, have something under the trans to support it when you start moving the motor. the engine block will have alignment pins that have to slide out of the trans before its completely out, if you use a pry bar between the block and bellhousing you can usually pop it apart. then out she goes flywheel, torque converter and all.

now the tricky part is you HAVE to have the torque converter in the TRANS when you put the motor back in, the TC will lock onto the splines of the input shaft but sometimes you think its in all the way then you turn and push a little more and it slides in further, so as a guide the TC MUST be into the bellhousing far enough that its almost right up against the body of the transmission, only then it is fully seated.

once the motor and flywheel are back in and bolted to the bellhousing ( this is where a floor jack under the trans helps for alignment) you remove the inspection cover off the bottom of the engine right in front of the flyweel, align the TC bolts with the flywheel bolt holes by turning the engine with a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley. with a couple of prybars or screwdrivers and alot of patience slide the TC forward through the bolt holes and put the nuts on, tighten the nuts accross from each other to pull the tc in the rest of the way.

you can only access one or two bolts at a time so a fair amount of turning the motor is required to do it right. it helps to keep the starter out], keep the bolts out of the lower dust cover, and remove the spark plugs.

just to be safe it is a good thing to try to have the flywheel holes and tc bolts lined up half assed when the motor goes in one less thing to do on the ground on your back.

oh and having an extra set of hands helps out alot, ive done complete swaps by myself a couple of times but it sucks.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Need to ID tranny n4ext

see Shift Indicator Patterns & Indicator pics (AOD, C6 & E4OD); "...Shifter w/a P-R-N-(D)-D-1 pattern, it is an AOD, note, OD is actually a (D) in a white circle, w/ Trans code T, pic by trigger

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/21070-shifting-problems/

ASSuming it is AOD

see my AOD section @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=59

Scroll down to Removal

for C6

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=786

Scroll down to Removal

And for the E4OD (never know id a po or shop made the swap w/EEC and sensors..

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=63

 

[Return To Glory]

thanks this is going to start on Sunday so I mite ask some more questions later THANKS

 

[DNBELOWBRONCO]

thanks this is going to start on Sunday so I mite ask some more questions later THANKS

Hey Glory good luck tomorrow, actually today. Like Krafty said the T.C. will pop in 2 or 3 times till it's flush inside the bell housing. Depending on the size of your hands, you should barely be able to slip the tips of your fingers between the T.C. and the bell housing when it's all the way inside. The 4 studs that go through the flywheel shouldn't stick out past the edge of the bell housing where it bolts to the back of the engine. Sometimes you have to rock the T.C. back & forth and slightly lift it to slide it along the front pump shaft. If you're installing a new one pour a qt or two of trans fluid in to help fill it. I just threw mine in about 2-3 months ago. Remember to remove the starter and the plugs so it turns over easy when you remove the T.C. nuts. You should put a little anti-seize on the threads of anything you want to come off easier next time & remember to put the four T.C. nuts on before you bolt up the bell housing. Sounds stupid, but when you're stabbing the motor sometimes you get caught up in the big things and overlook the little ones. I almost put my motor in without the flywheel, noticed it at the last second before I started wheeling the hoist into the engine compartment.....lol. Another thing. If you're doing this alone, done my fair share that way, put a 15/16ths I believe, socket & 4" extension on the harmonic balancer bolt and break down your jack handle, if you don't have a long breaker bar, and slip it over the ratchet so you can rest it on the frame. That way when you're under there taking the T.C. nuts off the motor won't spin. You can slip the handle off when you need to move to the next nut & the handle will keep it in place in between! I put a jack stand, with a piece of short 2x4 on top, under the bell housing so the trans would stay at the same height to make it easier when I put the engine back in. I also used a truck tie down ratchet strap, the keep the engine level on the hoist when installing it, so the 4 T.C. studs were flush with the flywheel holes while clearing the motor mount studs too. '96's have a stud that comes out of the motor mount and goes through the crossmember and is secured with a nut and washer! I think yours has a bolt that goes through the crossmember and into the motor mount? Either way good luck sir and if you have a digital camera click off a bunch of pics so you can go back and look at them for reference if you need to on the install......-Kevin-

**I left these pics big so you could reference them close up. You can see how far my old T.C. was in by looking at the rubber inspection/drain hole plug on the bottom! ** Hope this helps......