I have a 92 eddie bauer that has 3.55 rear end 3L55 88 1 J16 trying to find a replacement rear end at a salvage yard everyone seems to have a open rear. If im not mistaken mine has a trak lok rear where both wheels pull.Not sure exactly how it works but i believe it's better than a open rear for offroading.Could anyone tell me what vehicles and years i would be able to get a rear end out of. The rear thats in the truck now has a broken spider gear and looks like it may have marred up the ring gear from the broken spider gear. I would try to rebuild rear end myself but hear its a tough job. I have many years as a mechanic but never tackled a rear end rebuild have swapped rears before and lot of motor work. When i took it apart it looks pretty basic if i can't find a salvage yard rear may have to try rebuild.I checked bronco graveyard looks like they have all parts i will need to do rebuild.Need to get this done a.s.a.p so i can have some fun wheeling
Need Info
- Thread starter gngbronco
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Broncobill78
New member
Well, truth be told I've never attempted a rear-end rebuild on my own. I have enough experience as a machinist to not want the hassles of setting pinion depth (admittedly not difficult but time consuming) and the gear contact pattern (just a tad more difficult). I have the dial & depth gauges but I've seen a couple, three friends try it only to destroy the ring & pinion 1200 miles down the road. I've never gotten into the guts of an 8.8" either, preferring to stay with the 9". Last time I did one I had a Detroit Locker & 4.56 gears installed in a spare center section by my local dealer for $350. Seemed like a good enuf deal to me 
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
At any rate, here's a good writeup on an 8.8 rebuild to maybe give you an idea:
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
Nothing but respect for the guys who can crank one out and have it last. All I can say is that *I* can't do it /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />At any rate, here's a good writeup on an 8.8 rebuild to maybe give you an idea:
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
Nothing but respect for the guys who can crank one out and have it last. All I can say is that *I* can't do it
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
Last edited by a moderator:
gngbronco, you are correct about the factory limited slip being a trak-Loc with 3.55 gears according to your tag info. The trak'Loc limited slip uses clutches to split power to both wheels when one slips. These 3 little clutches often wear out, and need to be replaced when doing a gear swap or repair if you have high mileage (over 100K miles) or are having traction problems. I recently posted a page full of links from Miesk5's website in a thread on the F0rd 8.8", and will look for it to post a link. There are some good videos on how to fix the rear axle.
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...8.8\\
AS for the fullsize bronco, the 8.8" was offered from 1983 to 96. THe previous 9" axle was finally discontinued after 1986. Since your 92 is fuel injected and has a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) in the rear axle, you'll want one from 1987-up. The F-150 pick-ups also used the 8.8" for those same years, plus after that up to present day. The Explorers also have the 8.8", but it may be harder to find one with the 3L55 code. All of the bronco and F-150 axles are 31-spline, and I believe the Explorers are too. The Explorers came with disc brakes on some years that might be a good time to upgrade.
Back to repairing the 8.8" yourself. I usually recommend having a shop do the work if replacing gears, as it is critical to get the right backlash, gear mesh and pinion bearing pre-load. It will cost you a few hundred bucks to get the proper tools needed to set these, like dial indicator gauges, inch-pound torque wrench, and a bearing puller for the carrier. It's often easier and wuicker to replace the whole rearend with another used one. The limited slip and open carriers are different, so they can't be swapped over; but it won't hurt to swap to an axle with the open 3.55's, except for when you get stuck and need the traction. I've been helping my brother with his 05 Mustang do a gear swap about once a month, adding a trak-Loc and then recently swapping out the whole rearend for one form an 08 GT model. If you decide to do the gears yourself, it's critical to thoroughly clean out the housing of any metal bits. Use a magnet to check the little nooks and crannies after a thorough cleaning. We've had no problems with any of the gear installs, just trying to find the right ratio for a faster E.T.
You should be able to find a used 8.8" for about $200-$300. I would at least pull the rear cover off and inspect the gears, as well as confirm the gear ratio. Check the pinion yoke for any play or slop, as well as the axleshafts. If you have a shop fix your current axle, it should run about $400 labor plus parts. that's what most shops in my area charger for a gear swap. You can save some money by pulling the rearend and taking it in, if that's possible. Good luck, JSM84
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...8.8\\
AS for the fullsize bronco, the 8.8" was offered from 1983 to 96. THe previous 9" axle was finally discontinued after 1986. Since your 92 is fuel injected and has a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) in the rear axle, you'll want one from 1987-up. The F-150 pick-ups also used the 8.8" for those same years, plus after that up to present day. The Explorers also have the 8.8", but it may be harder to find one with the 3L55 code. All of the bronco and F-150 axles are 31-spline, and I believe the Explorers are too. The Explorers came with disc brakes on some years that might be a good time to upgrade.
Back to repairing the 8.8" yourself. I usually recommend having a shop do the work if replacing gears, as it is critical to get the right backlash, gear mesh and pinion bearing pre-load. It will cost you a few hundred bucks to get the proper tools needed to set these, like dial indicator gauges, inch-pound torque wrench, and a bearing puller for the carrier. It's often easier and wuicker to replace the whole rearend with another used one. The limited slip and open carriers are different, so they can't be swapped over; but it won't hurt to swap to an axle with the open 3.55's, except for when you get stuck and need the traction. I've been helping my brother with his 05 Mustang do a gear swap about once a month, adding a trak-Loc and then recently swapping out the whole rearend for one form an 08 GT model. If you decide to do the gears yourself, it's critical to thoroughly clean out the housing of any metal bits. Use a magnet to check the little nooks and crannies after a thorough cleaning. We've had no problems with any of the gear installs, just trying to find the right ratio for a faster E.T.
You should be able to find a used 8.8" for about $200-$300. I would at least pull the rear cover off and inspect the gears, as well as confirm the gear ratio. Check the pinion yoke for any play or slop, as well as the axleshafts. If you have a shop fix your current axle, it should run about $400 labor plus parts. that's what most shops in my area charger for a gear swap. You can save some money by pulling the rearend and taking it in, if that's possible. Good luck, JSM84
Last edited by a moderator:
