Maybe be a silly question

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ken0275

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This maybe a silly question for you people, but I have been scratching my head and trying to come up with an answer.

I have a 76 bronco and I am dropping in a remanned 86 302.

The old motor I pulled out would start and the factory oil pressure gauge appeared to work.

I am planning on purchasing a good set of mechanical gauges in order to monitor the new motor.

And now the silly question:

Is there a way I can keep the factory gauge working and install the aftermarket mechanical gauge??? :blink:

I don't know if I could put a tee on the end of the oil pressure sending unit extension and then connect both gauges to that or not.

I would be worried that the gauges would both be off.

:blush: Like I said its a silly question.

I would like to keep the factory gauge working, because it would bug the crap out of me that every time I looked at gauge cluster there would be one not working :angry:

Me

 

Bully Bob

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Common question & yes..!

I have the same set-up on my oil pressure. One stock & one mechanical tee'd off the block.

There will be no slack in readings on either. ;) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Adding a volt meter will give you a constant read on the batt. condition.

Leave the stock amp meter.

Aft. mkt temp. gage, I think, would req. a seperate sender. B)

Bob

 

Seabronc

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I would like to keep the factory gauge working, because it would bug the crap out of me that every time I looked at gauge cluster there would be one not working :angry: Me

24368[/snapback]

The factory gauge is not very reliable. The sender units **** and the reading is often way off. That is why so many people install a real gauge rather than the factory glorified idiot light. You might want to install a real Engine Temperature gauge while you are at it and a real Volt meter.

Good luck,

:)>-

 
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ken0275

ken0275

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The factory gauge is not very reliable.  The sender units **** and the reading is often way off.  That is why so many people install a real gauge rather than the factory glorified idiot light.  You might want to install a real Engine Temperature gauge while you are at it and a real Volt meter.
Good luck,

:)>-

24390[/snapback]

Ok thanks, I was planning on buying water temp, oil pressure and volt gauges.

I have two spots where I can install a water temp sending unit

Volt gauge I never installed, but I should be able to figure it out.

Thanks

Me

 

Bully Bob

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"The factory gauge is not very reliable" :eek: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> :eek: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> :huh:

"That is why so many people install a real gauge rather than the factory glorified idiot light" :huh: :huh: :eek: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

NAW,

I've had 6 EB's & all the gages worked fine...they have no "idiot lights"

Leave yours alone if they're working...clean them up if they're not...

The aftermarket gages are a good back-up & look good if installed correctly. B)

The volt gage comes with directions...real easy..!

 

Seabronc

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I've had 6 EB's & all the gages worked fine...they have no "idiot lights"

24392[/snapback]

Ford Oil pressusre gagues have a reputation of being inaccurate due to sucky sending units. They often read low when in fact the pressure is good. On the other hand, I would rather have it read low than high but that is still annoying :blink: .

As far as glorified idiot lights, that is what I refer to the Ford gagues as because they don't actually give you any real information like PSI, degrees, and actual voltage output, vacuum level, etc. :angry: Perhaps it's just a personal preference :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Of course, there is no point in good gauges if you don't know what the information means to the overall operation of the vehicle or what to do with it once you get it. :ph34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

:)>-

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Bronc,

My gages read (in increments) 120-230 temp...0-80 PSI ...-60 to +60 Amps. (all 6 vehicles)

My hard line oil press. gage reads the same as the stock one. (60+ cold & 40 warm) Obviously, being 40 yrs. old, the sending unit(s) have been replaced.

Not sure what you're refering to..? :blink:

Did you use air press., as I suggested, to remove your valve springs..?

One other point, when one goes, there may be others...

Enjoy,

Bob

 

Seabronc

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Hi Bronc,My gages read (in increments) 120-230 temp...0-80 PSI ...-60 to +60 Amps. (all 6 vehicles)

My hard line oil press. gage reads the same as the stock one. (60+ cold & 40 warm) Obviously, being 40 yrs. old, the sending unit(s) have been replaced.

Not sure what you're refering to..?
 
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