manual lever position sensor

[Devil Dog08]

hey guys narrowed my trans shifting down to the manual lever position sensor . this is what the shop told me . they said no codes are stored in this sensor.and they are known to go bad and cause the problem of my 95 full size bronco feeling like the trans is trying to find a gear and banging when i am hitting the passing gear especially when i am going up hill. ford no longer makes this part for the 1995 and replaced it with something else, the shop wants 125 for the part and 75 for the install . where is this part located on my truck ? how hard is it to install ?and does this seem like a fair price. thanks guys

 

[miesk5]

YO DD!

That shop failed to mention that the MLPS is readily available.

Ford refers to da MLPS as da Transmission Range (TR) sensor; to help confuse us.. and that shop!...LOL

As of 1994, the Neutral Safety Switch or Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) is referred to as a Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) or Transmission Range (TR) Sensor or;

Part Name: Neutral Safety Switch

Manufactured By: Motorcraft Part Number: 7A247 (SW-5063) Part Number: F5TZ7A247B Price: $101.87 OR Select a dealer for their prices and availability [or if image isn't allowed here; see it at http://www.fordparts.com/PartImage.ashx?filename=F5TZ7A247B-ANG&dw=150&dh=150&type=JPG

-

or buy from AMAZON Ford Dealer (HIRES) or Rockauto MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5063 {#F5TZ7A247B}

More Info

$52.79 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,1106109,parttype,4584,d,1995_FORD_BRONCO_5.8L_351_cubic_inch_V8_MFI_H_OHV_Neutral_Safety_Switch.html

Here is the skinny;

E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; "... The powertrain control module sends voltage to the Transmission Range (TR) sensor. The TR sensor incorporates a series of step-down resistors which act as a voltage divider. The powertrain control module monitors this voltage which corresponds to the position of the gearshift selector lever (P, R, N, (D), 2 or 1). The powertrain control module uses this information to determine the desired gear and electronic pressure control pressure. The TR sensor is located on the outside of the transmission at the gearshift selector lever. Harsh engagements, firm shift feel.

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pic w/Alignment Marks (from a Mercury, but similar)

Source: by Steve83 @ http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/81709

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Installation pics in a 92

Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2896/72098

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Location pic by SGT TEX; http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/153632/fullsize/willhelp.jpg

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Typical Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are: 634, 654, 667, 668, and P0705, P0707, P0708, P1705 in the 96 Bronco

DTC 67 & DTC 634; "E4OD Nagging Neutral Nonsense & Pinpoint Test, Manual Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor. Some of the problems the MLPS can cause are wrong gear starts, TCC hunting, no 4th gear, engine stalling, high or erratic line pressure & a sudden neutral condition; The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS...This sensor is responsible for more malfunctions than any other sensor in the sys- tem, and the kicker is that it seldom stores a code 67 or 634..."

Source: by Pete L at http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/magazines/1998-10/Shift%20Pointers/index.html

Installation in 96 Bronco and F Series, from Workshop Manual

Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj7ea06.htm

Removal

Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

Raise and support the vehicle.

Remove the shift cable and bracket (7E395)from themanual control lever (7A256).

Place themanual control lever in neutral.

Disconnect electrical harness from TR sensor.

Remove two retaining bolts.

Remove transmission range (TR) sensor.

Installation

Ensure manual control lever is in the NEUTRAL position.

Install TR sensor and loosely install two retaining bolts.

Align TR sensor slots using Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH.

Tighten retaining bolts to 6-8 Nm (55-75 lb-in) for E4OD and to 7-10 Nm (62-89 lb-in) for 4R70W and remove tool.

Connect electrical harness to TR sensor.

Install nut retaining manual control lever to TR sensor. Tighten to 27-39 Nm (20-29 lb-ft) for E4OD and to 30-35 Nm (22-26 lb-ft) for 4R70W.

Install the shift cable and bracket on themanual control lever.

Lower the vehicle.

Connect battery ground cable.

Check for proper operation with parking brake engaged. The engine should start only in park or neutral.

===============

Now instead of using that costly Alignment Tool(about $60.00 a few yrs ago)

Adjustment Info in a 92 by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055'>http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055

Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055

Connector Re-Pining; "...The new style Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor comes with a matching vehicle harness connector. The problem is that you have to remove the pins and their wires from the old vehicle harness connector. What ever you do don't pull all the pins out at the same time because you will never figure out were they go. Easiest thing to do is remove one pin at a time and re-install it into the new connector..."

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10964&st=0#entry56940

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Water Intrusion of Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor TSB 95-2-12 for 89-94 Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc

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Suggest you do a Self test for Codes;

SELF TEST - COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location pics, Bronco & Ford; miesk5 NOTE, The Self-Test Output (STO) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14269&st=0

 

[Devil Dog08]

hey Miesk5 thanks for this great info .you are the best. this job does look a little complicated . whats your opinon on the average joe doing this job himself considering the electrical work involved . ? or should i leave it to the pros. he quoted me a 100.00 for the part and 75 for the install. thanks again

 

[miesk5]

yo DOG!

YW, and the thx also goes to those who posted their tech info on-line so we can learn from their experiences.

Suggest you call your most friendly Ford Service Manager & get a quote since that "shop" isn't with da program on the MLPS availabilty from Ford.

or better, stop in w/a copy of this thread. They tend to estimate better in person

I know that was a lot of info, but I really think that shop is iffy based on the info you have posted here and I think, in the past.

I think you can replace it yourself and save over $120.00; If you have a multimeter and have used it to check the Bronco ckts for voltage and resistance, etc.

can do that self-test procedure to check for Codes in cast that shop "guessed" wrong.

and can see how the "new" MLPS design (that prevents water intrusion & resultant corrosion, etc.) has a different connector lay-out but can be adapted to your existing connector as I described above.

So, think about it... call Ford local dealer .

I'm away again, so take a look in my broncolinks.com site under Shop & Tool Tips and look for a Repair Price Estimate link or something called like that; the MLP may be in there.

GL

 

[Devil Dog08]

thanks Miesk 5 . i will take your advice and keep everything posted

 

[miesk5]

yo DD,

yw

I capice. and good! Keep us informed.

btw, call around some local parts stores and see if they will run the KOEO & KOER Scans for Free.

Get 2 scans; one from AAMCO and one from whoever else will do it for free. Such as Bill DeFalco, 2751 Bristol Pike • Bensalem, PA 19020-5336

 

[Devil Dog08]

well put in the MLPS yesterday. still having the same problem . the only good thing is i would like to keep this truck forever and later down the road its one less thing i have to deal with.no one can figure out whats wrong with my truck.maybe its internal trans problem .going to have to stay on the back burner cant afford to deal with this problem

 

[Devil Dog08]

well put in the MLPS yesterday. still having the same problem . the only good thing is i would like to keep this truck forever and later down the road its one less thing i have to deal with.no one can figure out whats wrong with my truck.maybe its internal trans problem .going to have to stay on the back burner cant afford to deal with this problem

 

[bobstrat]

have you verified your TPS good?

 

[BroncoJoe19]

After you installeed the MLPS did you adjust it?

miesk5 pointed to a thread that gave instructions on how to do just that.

Otherwise, if you did, then please share with us what your shifting issues are.

 

[Heavymetal21192]

I have a 94 bronco 351w with the E4OD. Ran a code reader and popped up with the 654 code. Before I change out the mlps, I went ahead and shot the pins on the connector. Through all positions, it reads 5.05 volts, with the resistance check for the signal return. In park it's showing just fine, in reverse it's showing about 1650ohms... as well for N,D,2, and 1. I'm stumped on my next step. Any help fellas?

 

[Heavymetal21192]

Forgot to mention, the truck drives just fine besides stalling in reverse when warm, and a rare what seems to be popping out of gear during downshift going up a grade on the highway.