Loss of power after upper end rebuild

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spdjunkie83

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Hi all.

I'm new to this forum but I thought I would ask you all.

I have a 1992 Bronco 302 with a E40D tranny. I recently did an upper end refresh (head gaskets, intake gaskets, egr gasket, valve seals) after i got it all put together and timed it to 10BTC it runs fine and idles fine but it throws a check engine light after only a couple of minuites on the road and when i get on the freeway i have a hard time doing 70MPH and when i stomp on it it has no power. I pulled the codes and i got 62, 74, 173, 332, I just can't figure it out. i have around 30 lbs fuel pressure and I tripple checked all electrical conections and vacuum lines. when sitting and revving or idling the truck runs fine. theres no wierd vibrations or anything just has little power. any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

miesk5

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yo spdjunkie83,

WELCOME!

In your 92 you should have just three-digit EEC IV codes.

DTC 173 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S; there's either an

DTC 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S Failure Or Fuse E Inoperative, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Inoperative, MIL On, Inadvertent Self-Test, Speedometer Inoperative & Trailer Battery Charge Relay Inoperative TSB 95-02-11 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series

by Ford via Chilton http://content.chiltonsonline.com/TSB/displayTSBHandler.ashx?assetID=36956&key=6kAUBD5BruOJf%2f3tgozUqjXM3RdbjcQqW4sVWiE%2fp2IojfpfKqM07dr61%2bQAWHtTZr4ceHaQGlj8NylACcNZ4qedMqy4JdYyAXN5akgfkpHUz4aCpJyaaA%3d%3d

any one Publication Date: MARCH 13, 1995

by Ford via Chilton

http://content.chiltonsonline.com/TSB/displayTSBHandler.ashx?assetID=37000&key=6kAUBD5BruOJf%2f3tgozUqjXM3RdbjcQqW4sVWiE%2fp2IojfpfKqM07dr61%2bQAWHtT%2bshJrOWtEbHwvhgsAZPzfPNEDgviKncqfc3mHkrzcEoEdL99Ph3Gujftuw%2f3sDBIxZEqFQle7s1xdai2HmgR%2bA%3d%3d

LIGHT TRUCK: 1992-1995 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES

See LOCATION DIAGRAM

ISSUE: On some vehicles the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions:

ABS light on

Speedometer inoperative

Back-up lamps inoperative

Daytime running lamps inoperative

Trailer battery charge relay inoperative

MIL on, displaying Codes: 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S failure

Inadvertent PCM Self-Test

ACTION: Replace the damaged wire harness and HO2S sensor. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the solenoid terminal and positive battery cable from the starter.

3. Pull the cable downward to inspect the 12A690 harness for chafing, pinholes, etc. If necessary, remove the convolute and tape from the 12A690 harness located next to the lower RH side engine mount.

4. If the 12A690 harness is damaged, replace the 14B060 assembly (F5TZ-14300-EA) and the HO2S sensor (F4UZ-9F472-A).

5. Inspect Fuse "E" and replace if necessary (D9ZZ-14526-D).

6. Clear all codes stored in memory.

7. Retest and verify the concern has been resolved.

PART NUMBER - PART NAME

D9ZZ-14526-D Fuse - 15 Amp

F5TZ-14300-EA Harness Assembly

F4UZ-9F472-A HO2S Sensor

Look for fault in the Oygen Sensor's heater element circuit on the purple/orange wire

Others have found this in their Broncos.

 

miesk5

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yo,

I had to post because Comcast was slowing dn to dead stop

DTC 332 "...Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."

Source: by greystreak92

"...Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation. Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."

Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed: EGR valve diaphragm leaks; EVR solenoid sticking closed; Loss of vacuum to or from EVR; Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits; Leak or restriction in DPFE signal hoses..."

by latechsho

"...CHECK YOUR VACUUM CANISTER; I had this issue for well over a year. I did all my proper checks using the blueprint that Meisk5 gave me. I went through the EVP, manually checked the EGR, all vacuum hose that was pertinent, ETC. removed my vacuum canister to install my new one and this is what I found underneath. I replaced it with this canister (rust bullet applied) from my donor truck and finished it with BlackShell..."

Source: by td 152

===========

Also, was SPOUT disconnected during timing adjustment?

I'd look for a Vacuum Leak first;

One possible symptom is that "...The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors in 92-96. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit..."

See my Vacuum Leak Test @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22770-low-idle/

 
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spdjunkie83

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So when I had the heads off i TDC the #1 piston using a dial indicator and ensured that my marks on my the harmonic balancer were correct. I did not rotate the engine until i had dropped in the distributor. i checked all rocker arms torqued with valves closed. i checked the timing with the spout connector disconnected.

as for having 2 and 3 digit codes at the same time i checked it with 2 other code readers and got the same thing.

i'm clueless here. so i think i'm going to spend a few bucks and redo all my vacuum lines with soft line instead of the brittle formed lines they have on there. don't know. maybe i just have a cracked line.

I will check my wiring harness for any damage especially the O2 sensors.

some additional info is before i blew the head gasket the truck would not accelerate under load and would sputter a lot on bank one. it did not overheat. i had the heads and block checked to ensure they were still true.

any other help would be greatly appreciated in fact i appreciate all the help.

 

miesk5

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yo spdjunkie83,

OK. on the timing, and mech work!

======

On the 2 & 3 digit Codes; All the official Ford info I have states that your 92 will have only 3 digit codes.

In past, some have gotten 2 digit codes in a 94, but this was due to an EEC swap from an earlier year vehicle along w/an engine swap/trans swap.

Have you owned this Bronco since new?

if so and EEC was not swapped, ignore following;

Are you sure it has the original EEC in it?

We can try and confirm that a shop or previous owner did not swap the EEC;

Do me a favor and look @ your Driver's Side B Pillar Label (Certification Label, also referred to as the Patent Plate, Data Plate & the Warranty Plate)

Here is a pic in a 94 5.0 & E4OD

94-302-e4od-door-sticker.jpg

Source: by Adrianspeeder

Look @ date in upper right corner

post date

And look @ VIN

use this decoder to see Model Year

is Model Year 92?

and look @ Calibration Code on Driver's B Pillar

Post cal #

Identification, Bronco & Ford. Program Code; "Every computer has a main sticker on the 60-pin connector that identifies the computer and holds the most information about the computer. If you have an EEC in your hands and wonder what it came out of this list is for you. If you are looking for an EEC in a junkyard or swap meets this is for you too. If you just wondered what computers Ford used in which vehicle this is also for you. I would not be upset if you printed this page off for your records, in fact I recommend taking it with you so you have an advantage finding that special EEC..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=17

Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI), PUK (49 States) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number (also called catch code) from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window

Source: by Ford @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/retail/default.asp?pageid=&gutsid=&kevin=rules

Compare Calibration to Number on the EEC

==

Do the Codes readers list Codes or give flashes?

...

Most Code Test Problems are related to a scan tool not being able to preform the test; here are some tips that may apply to your issue;

Electronicly controled automatic computers need an operational Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS)

Check aftermarket devices like alarm system connected to engine or computer components.

Restore engine and computer system to original configuration.

Check aftermarket computer chips and other plug in controls. Any chips or controls that impede basic engine and computer function need to be removed.

Restore computer and harness to original configuration.

Don't do this yet: Disconnect computer and inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires. Replace computer if visually damaged, repair any damaged pins in harness. Visually inspect the ENTIRE engine and computer wiring harness and connections for corrosion, ground faults, shorts, physical damage, and general condition.

But do inspect the DLC and STI connector for above.

---

Vac Line

it is good that you are swapping them for new; since you did all that work; consider spending a few $ more for silicone hose

"...Get the Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Engine Dress Up Kit and then an additional 10' of 4mm vacuum hose in the color of your choice. I used wire loom to protect the hose through the Intake Manifold, to the Diverter Valve and where it rubs on the Intake to the EVP: Silicone Intake Systems. miesk5 Note, Seattle wrote in another thread; I had no issues directly connecting the 4mm silicone lines. I did not reuse any old vacuum line or connectors and connected directly to the appropriate vacuum tree and *******...While you are at it, access the Vacuum Reservior mounting bolts from under the wheel well and remove it to inspect for holes or leaks. Using a vacuum tester is advised for the reservoir and all of the new lines. "

silicone 4mm - siliconeintakes.com or local parts store

Source: by Seattle FSB

 
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spdjunkie83

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thanks miesk5 for all the info. i took a look at it and it is the original ECU. I ran into a friend of mine that is a ford mechanic and asked him about it and he found my problem and yes it was all a vacuum problem. i also asked him about the 2 digit codes and he said that some readers don't know the replacement code for all the 2 digit codes so they show 2 digits even though the ecu is giving 3. depends on the quality and age of the reader. he helped me out a lot as well as all of you. i am so glad i have you guys to bounce ideas off of. now to replace all those other crappy molded lines that are brittle from the heat and age. the thing runs like a champ now. and no i have only had this bronco about 2 years now. i bought it from someone who only put 25k on it in 6 years and before that it was a well maintained toy for some guy in arizona. Now on to finishing the new motor for it. thanks a lot for all the help guys

 

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