LETS TALK FRAME PROTECTION

[DonLawson84]

A few months ago (as i was searching random sheet on the internet) I came across a write up saying that frames should never be coated with a hardened paint or epoxy, claiming that it would cause frame rot. In the write up they were using some kind of spray that stuck on, but was a soft coating that.

Any opinions on this from those that have a un-garaged / salt belt vehicle?

I am back in the game, just picked up a 95 XLT after my 6 year hiatus of not having a Bronco. I plan to remove any loose rust and put somekind of protectant on the frame, but unsure what to use.

Donny in Delaware

 

[miesk5]

Yo Donny,
Following from;

Section 02-01: Frame

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Workshop Manual​

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

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Frame​

The F-Series and Bronco frames are made of all steel channel with replaceable steel crossmembers.
-&

Section 02-01: Frame

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Workshop Manual​

SERVICE PROCEDURES

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Frame Inspection​

Misalignment of frame (5005) is the result of damaged components.

Before checking frame alignment, inspect all frame members for damage, cracks, twists, or bends.

Check all welded connections for cracks. Inspect all rivets, bolts, and body support brackets for looseness.

Make all necessary repairs or replacements.

---

See more information @ https://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjs210l.htm

 

[miesk5]

Part 2;
Congratulations on acquiring your 95!

ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEH0⁰⁰⁰ICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."

FYI, here is;:
1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1995 Ford Bronco

1995 Bronco/F Series Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
The eight Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
02 - Engine and Transmission Mounting
03 - Engine
05 - Driveline
07 - Transmission
08 - Clutch
09 - Exhaust System
10 - Fuel System
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the Section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.
&
1995 Bronco/F Series Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver
The twelve Groups found in this manual are:
00 - Service Information
01 - Body
02 - Frame and Mounting (Body)
04 - Suspension
06 - Brake System
11 - Steering System
12 - Climate Control System
13 - Instrumentation and Warning Systems
14 - Battery and Charging System
15 - Audio Systems
17 - Lighting
18 - Electrical Distribution
Each Section covers a component or system. The second set of numbers on each page
indicates the section.
If the vehicle has more than one type of component, such as two types of engines or power
steering systems, alphabetical suffixes are used.

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via my friend, BroncMom!

See my mostly recovered site by my friend, schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources

 

[Tiha]

It depends on how the frame is prepped and the product you are using.

Products like over rust, or por15, the rust treatment products, they do not work properly unless there is rust to adhere to and convert.

Epoxy coatings they are saying is the best now but the frame has to be blasted and spotless.

Brushing it on or even spraying any product inherently leaves a wholes or a thin spots somewhere for moisture to get in behind the product. Or a loose joint at a cross member or spring hanger will wear through the coating leaving an opening.

So one hand they are correct.

But coating the frame with yearly inspection and touch up is the best answer.

Seems like woolwax is the latest craze and lots of guys seem to be happy with it. The demo videos show it going right over rust, but in my mind that is trapping moisture in against the steel making it worse.

I have one truck that has old school rubberized undercoating on it for the last 20 years and it has held up great. But I do touch it up at least once a year.

But if you can, park it in a warm dry spot for the winter. Rust will eventually come get you.

This is one of the reasons I dumped a bunch of projects. Spending so much time every year just to keep them from rotting into the ground.

 

[paul rondelli]

I'm in the mindset that anything is better than nothing.

Not treating a surface rusted frame ... because it might rot from the inside .... is like saying I'm still going to eat greasy foods because I might get heart disease anyway.

Prevention is the only option.

I'm a POR 15 fan. I coat that stuff on every surface I can get to.

Just for a test ... A few years ago .. I coated the underneath on my push mower deck with POR 15. Now I use this push mower as a QUASI bush hog. I run through Kudzo .... beer bottles.... cans .... stumps ... medium sized rocks.... branches up in 1/2 thick. It has a 6hp Briggs motor that is a beast.

So far the POR 15 has held up great .... nowhere underneath the deck has it chipped or broken off. That stuff is amazing

 

[chrlsful]

common practice/observation:
I live in ‘the salt zone’. Worse now w/the rd ‘pre-spray'. Horrible as frames/entire under carriages go in several, 5 yrs. Esp trucks.
Frame off rest0 no better. They use poly-paints like truck bed liner (or ‘rubberized undercoat). The chit gets under, U dont C it, it rots. This yr I’m tryin a combo (my own rig only) of ‘reformer', naval jelly , rust conversion - what ever U wanna call it AND my usual (nxt paragraph).

For few bucks I do under coats. I have equip now. Some I pound w/a hammer (Descale) all I pressure wash (if 1st treatment) get off lift’n roll outside 2 dry. Back up nxt day’n spray w/fluid film. (some use wax wool or other). Anything that can rust but exhaust, breaks, electrical. 1 Rx, fall. Some swear by an immediate run over dirt rd to get dust up there, I dont. May B one car wash under spray (or 2) per winter? But deffinatly an under coat again in fall. May B one during summer? I dont.

This has turned around my “disappearing cars” from this major nemesis of the age (ol daze we’d just pack it down’n rid up on top. “F” a plow). **** in mud season when it all melted tho~

 

[Weasel]

A few months ago (as i was searching random sheet on the internet) I came across a write up saying that frames should never be coated with a hardened paint or epoxy, claiming that it would cause frame rot. In the write up they were using some kind of spray that stuck on, but was a soft coating that.

Any opinions on this from those that have a un-garaged / salt belt vehicle?

I am back in the game, just picked up a 95 XLT after my 6 year hiatus of not having a Bronco. I plan to remove any loose rust and put somekind of protectant on the frame, but unsure what to use.

Donny in Delaware

100% true. I have learned after 20+ years of owning Broncos that hard undercoating ONLY leads to rot in time. Sure, the first year may look perfect but as soon as there is a chip, crack, or bubble (which WILL happen), that moisture and often salt will seep under the paint layer and be trapped there, accelerating corrosion and hiding it from you in the process. While you frame is rotting away, it will LOOK like it's perfect on the outside. I've seen that on two of my Broncos and an old YJ Jeep.

The best option that I am aware of at current time is lanolin-based undercoating spray. It is a natural sheep's wool grease by-product that is non-toxic, no real odor, and it never fully dries or cures. This means any rock that hits it cannot chip/crack the surface. The grease is self-healing. It can be removed down the line with a pressure washer and de-greaser also, but I don't see why you would ever remove it.

Repair Geek on YouTube has an annual update on his cars using lanolin spray. He lives in the rust belt and puts tens of thousands of miles on his vehicles. The proof is there.

Tiha makes a good point about "trapping" rust under the product but the thing is, grease will not allow air to touch the frame either, and you need AIR + MOISTURE to produce rust. It is a super-adhesive, viscous fluid that essentially traps and smothers rust, and even seems to loosen it over time so it can be brushed off. I did my truck and a buddy's truck a few years back and there is ZERO evidence of corrosion.

 

[Whipsaw]

I've had plenty of success with the old school approach of rust removal (drill mounted wire wheels), high pressure hose down, dry, treatment with OSPHO rust converter, then Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer followed by Rustoleum top coat. It does take two days as the OSPHO has to cure overnight. Rust Never Sleeps.