Just got an 1984 Bronco

[AKYAR]

Just bought a 1984 Bronco for my summer project, this is my "learn to do" experiment this summer seeing I have little experience with vehicle maintenance. So a run down on what I bought

1984 Bronco

302 5.0L

C6 Transmission

70K miles

This guy runs great and the transmission is in great shape. The brakes however, are pretty much not there. I replaced the brake booster, and am about to replace the calipers and brake pads this weekend in hopes it will fix it. Tailgate window has a problem with the regulator arm on one side being bent back, and it slips out of the "slider"? Also The exhaust system is gone, it is cut off after the Y-Pipe. I brought it to a mechanic to look at the carburator because it needs a lot of gas to start up, and while warming up, I have to keep my foot on the pedal for a couple minutes. He said there was no issue, but even while driving away, when accelerating from a stop I push the gas down and it feels like it takes a second or two to get gas delivered. I plan on making quite a few repairs this summer, I just want to know if there are any tips out there for the existing problems? and maybe some tips for me for improving it all around, some must dos!? I've played with the idea of ordering a crate turn-key engine and installing it, so any comments on that would be great.

Also what can I do to get this running up to 14-15 mpgs? would ordering a newer engine do that?

What type of custom engines could I put into it?

What type of upgraded transmissions could I put into it?

 

[miesk5]

yo AKYAR,

WELCOME!

Fuel Saving Tips

I have always factored in any cost to improve MPG in the overall $ "savings".

Free:

Reduce weight of the Bronco and tools, accessories and ... passengers; driver's get a pass; also, grille guards, side steps, etc.

Ensure that brakes are not dragging

Driving style/ light foot - Foot on da Pedal too much while accelerating and high speed driving over speed limit

proper tire pressure - Under inflated tires Increase rolling resistance 1-2 mpg;

Dirty air filter Causes excessively rich fuel/air mixture 2.0 mpg;

Worn spark plugs Cause inefficient combustion, wasted fuel 2.0 mpg;

Worn O2 sensor Unable to detect and adjust air/fuel mixture 3 mpg (not it your year);

Dirty or substandard engine oil Increases internal engine friction 0.4 mpg;

Loose gas cap Allows fuel to evaporate 2.0 mpg; P

Potential loss in fuel economy if all of the above were neglected 11.4 mpg

Check Timing

& more Items that Cost $:

alignment

tune-up. plugs - pull and check/re-gap, replace if nec, same for plug wires (check for insualtion cracks, and resistance (more on this later), distributor cap and rotor

brake parts - always $ WELL SPENT

For future mods;

see;

Project M.P.G. in a Centurion 460; miesk5 Note, Results are Comparable to Tests in other Ford Engines

Source: by performanceunlimited.com @

http://performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/

& take time to read this it is by Ford;

Fuel Economy Tech Tips TSB 99-26-09 for 90-96 Bronco, 90-97 F Series, Aerostar, F 350; 90-92 Ranger & Econoline; 91-2000 Explorer; 95-2000 Windstar; 97-2000 Expedition & Many Others

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/992609.pdf

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BRAKES; This is a job that requires tools, and removal of Locking Hubs

Suggest you obtain a Haynes Manual via e bay or store, etc. ensure it includes your year;

a Ford Service Manual is a great reference.

Here is an overview (HELMS IS FORD's PUBLISHER of manuals, owners guides, etc.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=FRD&Model=BRON&Year=1984&Category=&class%5F2=FRD&mk=Ford&yr=1984&md=Full%2DSize+Bronco&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=1202184A&itemtype=N

1984 F-Series/Bronco/Econoline Do-It-Yourself

Price: $18.00

Out of Stock.

Click here if you would like to be notified when this item becomes available.

Pkg Qty: 1

Media: Paper

Language: English

Item/Part #: 1202184A

Models and Years Covered 1984 F-Series/Bronco/Econoline Do-It-Yourself

Developed by Ford Motor Company, this shop manual provides detailed repair instruction written by the manufacterer. Information contained in each body type specific manual has been developed to aid technicians in diagnosing and repairing vehicle components and systems. Each manual covers the entire vehicle bumper to bumper including specifications, diagnosis and testing, in vehicle repairs, component removal and installation and complete engine and transmission rebuilding.

Description:

Geared For The Weekend Mechanic: Instructions And Procedures For Routine Repair Adjustment Maintenance Work Removal/Installation Of Parts For Various Vehicle Systems.

LOOK ON E BAY for it; ensure it by FOD and not another source

=========

Here is a Brake and Locking Hub Replacement in 80-92 & 93-96

Source: by Steve @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12739

Use it to see what is involved and what you need to obtain and get more info for.

=====

TAILGATE

re yor "regulator arm on one side being bent back, and it slips out of the "slider""

I have info on repairs/replacement in my site; but my off-shore data base HOST froze it and they take their sweet time restoring info despite accepting payments around the clock; so here is an archived copy;

http://web.archive.org/web/20110818162609/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478

such as;

Replacement in an 88 (many photos) BEST PROCESS!

Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) @ http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/tailgate.html

DUSTIN HAS SOME GREAT TIPS in his TG replacement; esp. for the regulator!

This is what the complete regulator looks like once you have pulled it out. One of the reasons why my window wouldn't go up or down was because the regulator was so rusty. The arms wouldn't move freely because of the lack of lubrication and lots of friction. I could barely move the arms by hand once the motor was taken out. I got another one from a junkyard for $50 and the problem has been cured. If your regulator is still in good shape, you should prevent the arms from moving before taking out the motor. I used a bolt and a bracket I found around the garage to secure the arms from snapping together.

&

Regulator, Window, Arm Repairs in a 94

Source: by R94BroncoXLT (Ryan) http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4853/19157

Regulator, Window, Arm; "... I used a piece of high strength ss wire to hold the "bear trap" in place so I could remove the motor..." see pics

Source: by woolf

Glass Roller (Dorman Universal Window Roller 74402) Installation in an 85

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) http://www.supermotors.net/registry/18028/66512

==

I suggest you ask Qs on specific repairs in a seperate Post in the future to get better responses

You did vg to incl your year, engine, trans types in your first Post!

GL

 

[Rons beast]

Hey Akyar,

Welcome.

You said "This guy runs great and the transmission is in great shape." So why replace the engine?

If you do the math the cost of a new engine will not be recovered in gas savings for many many years.

If the engine is good internally, ( and I would not expect the statement above if it wasn't.) just change the support equipment. Plugs cap rotor wires, airfilter fuel filter, etc.

The symptoms you describe indicate that the carb needs some work. Sounds like the choke and fast idle need adjustment, and sure sounds like the accelerator pump, and associated passages need work. In a nutshell you need a carb rebuild. If you don't feel confident to rebuild yourself,take it to someone that is familier with older Motorcraft carbs. It doesn't sound like your mechanic was one of those guys.

Brakes...a Bronc that old should have the solid brake lines inspected closely, and the flexable lines replaced. take a good look at the wheel cylinders. Any signs of seepage means replace them. Ditto with the calipers. Don't try to rebuild them when they are that old. With only 70k on the clock that truck did alot of sitting.

A Bronco in good tune with no extra unneeded weight, and good proper tires will get you the milage you desire when driven right. But remember they are big boxy beasts, and were not produced to be a milage leader in Fords fleet.

Whatever you do with your ride, enjoy it, and Good Luck.

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone

>

A rebuild kit only provides new gaskets and a accelerator pump diaphragm, it does not take care of wear problems which cause vacuum leaks. If you do rebuild there are several fuel passages you need to take particular care to unclog. I will guarantee you that a carb that old will have blockages in those areas. There are several small fuel passages that are there to aid in the smooth transition from idle to cruise and from cruise to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and they are not easy to clear out even after soaking it in a bucket of carb cleaner. Then you will need to properly adjust the cold idle, choke plate control, accelerator pump, fuel reservoir level, and hot idle.

I would suggest that you buy a re-manufactured carb.

The brakes on a FSB have never been that great. The rear brakes are difficult to keep in adjustment which shows up with some nasty steering problems when applying brakes on a slippery surface. So keep an eye on that. You might want to consider a rear disc conversion. Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has a kit http://www,broncograveyard .

Sounds like you know what you need to do with the rear window.

If you intend to learn by doing most of your own wrenching, do your self a favor and invest in a set of factory Ford Service manuals, NOT CHILTONS OR HAYNES. Chilton's and Haynes ar readers digest versions of the real thing, better than nothing, YES, but not much, and their electrical diagrams will give you instant head ache. I searched eBay and came up with the following. This is a bargain for these books.

http://www.ebay.com/...f7b3775&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/...f1abcff&vxp=mtr

Good luck and have fun. If you want to learn more about carbs, you can usually find a Holley carb book at some place like Barns and Nobel.

 

[AKYAR]

Man... thanks for the help guys, I did order one of those factory manuals. And I probably will go with a re-manufactored carb, seeing as I found one @:

http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com

For only $188 which is not bad at all from some of the other prices I've seen. Any feedback on that website?

 

[miesk5]

yo A,

Guaranteed Carburetor BBB Business Review

http://www.bbb.org/west-florida/business-reviews/carburetors-dealers/guaranteed-carburetors-in-largo-fl-90024081

not ba considering the company has been in business for Many years

A quick gOOgle indicates positive comments such as;

" used Guaranteed Carburetors to throw in a new rebuilt carburetor. It might be better to get one that is already rebuilt rather than attempting to rebuild it yourself if you don't have any prior experience. They aren't cheap, but a lot cheaper than buying a Holley Carb."

http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7963

 

[AKYAR]

So I was trying to replace a rotor, is there another tool you can you to get the insides of the hub assembly out? I saw a youtube video on it, and he used a "4-pin" wrench? a hub locknut socket wrench I guess... Any success with anything else?

 

[miesk5]

So I was trying to replace a rotor, is there another tool you can you to get the insides of the hub assembly out? I saw a youtube video on it, and he used a "4-pin" wrench? a hub locknut socket wrench I guess... Any success with anything else?

Yo, See my reply to your Rotor Replacement post @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23818-rotor-replacement/