Just bought this 1986 Bronco 5.0l with manual trans, UPDATE - Couple more questions, Help!

[Smafugula]

Hey Folks! I am new here, but not new to forums.

I recently purchased this 1986 Bronco XLT. What do you think? It has the 5.0l 302 EFI motor w/ manual transmission. I really know nothing about this truck, other then that I think I overpaid a little for it. It is rust free all around except for the hood (surface) and the tailgate which is ate through a little bit from seal failure on the back window. Truck is all original except the rims, thought Ford had manual locking hubs in the 1980s but I guess not?

I am the 3rd owner (first two were family) and I was told it sat around for awhile. ****, it had a Ford Oil filter on it. Now that it is home I will concur with that statement, it needs some help under the hood. I bought it because I felt that the interior was fantastic for being 35 years old, and it had the manual transmission, which I've never seen in a Bronco of this area (Are these rare?).

It does have a problem with the motor which I am really hoping doesn't constitute a top end job. It is backfiring, loud usually but its at random sometimes and usually around 1st and 2nd, have gotten it to do it in idle as well somewhat. I haven't drove it a whole lot.. I am worried about breaking the motor. I did do an oil change and sub'd a quart of MMO which seemed to remove an intermittent ticking noise that was coming from motor (prob lifters?). Now its just the backfiring which sounds like a gun shot. Scares the **** outta the neighbors!

I did find a vacuum leak on the intake, when plugged drops RPM idle from 1100 to about 900. Does anyone have the schematics or know where this hooks up too? I just want to make sure everything I do, I do correctly. Could this backfire have anything to do with PCV valve or MAP sensors? Smog/Emissions stuff? Last time me and my buddy drove it we went around for prob 30 min with no backfiring at all. Sounded great. Then by the time we got back in the neighborhood we got some significant backfiring.

Also, Coolant sensor was replaced with a new one, fixed gauge, then later gauge stopped working again, blown sensor again? Bad ground? All other gauges work, All interior lights work, headlights/tail lights, tag lights all that works. Back window motor bearings went out a week ago. Watched some videos on that, looks like a good way to learn how to loose a finger!

Oh, and can anyone tell me if these belts look like they are done right? I am trying to figure out how the AC belt goes on, owner said it snapped off while he was driving down the road. (previous owner inherited this truck and didn't drive it but 2 miles up and down the road) I feel like I saw somewhere online where there was one continuous belt?

Anyways I know that was a lot but I am really hoping for anyone's insight on this truck and what I got here. I am young (26) and am just trying to learn and enjoy the classics. Thank you for your time!

 

[Skitter302]

I recently purchased this 1986 Bronco XLT. What do you think?

Doesn't look bad at all. Paint the Hood black, deep clean the interior with your favorite cleaner and a vacuum, change all the fluids, and take care of the maintenance items.

Truck is all original except the rims, thought Ford had manual locking hubs in the 1980s but I guess not?

Good news the rims are still Ford wheels. They were optional but could be ordered with the Bronco. Feel free to do your homework and ditch the Auto hubs for reliable manual ones.

I did do an oil change and sub'd a quart of MMO which seemed to remove an intermittent ticking noise that was coming from motor (prob lifters?).

Clean oil does wonders for helping cure odd engine noises.

It is backfiring, loud usually but its at random sometimes and usually around 1st and 2nd,

Performing a ignition maintenance and upgrade will help. This could also be caused by dirty injectors that just need some cleaner run thru the fuel. Also check timing. needs to be set for 10-13° BTDC.

Coolant sensor was replaced with a new one, fixed gauge, then later gauge stopped working again, blown sensor again? Bad ground? All other gauges work,

Wont lie, these gauges are known to randomly crap out and tend to do what they want. Don't use them as fact of what your engine is doing.

 

[johnnyreb]

Doesn't look bad at all. Paint the Hood black, deep clean the interior with your favorite cleaner and a vacuum, change all the fluids, and take care of the maintenance items.


Good news the rims are still Ford wheels. They were optional but could be ordered with the Bronco. Feel free to do your homework and ditch the Auto hubs for reliable manual ones.


Clean oil does wonders for helping cure odd engine noises.



Performing a ignition maintenance and upgrade will help. This could also be caused by dirty injectors that just need some cleaner run thru the fuel. Also check timing. needs to be set for 10-13° BTDC.


Wont lie, these gauges are known to randomly crap out and tend to do what they want. Don't use them as fact of what your engine is doing.

Sounds like since it sat around for awhile. The cap and rotor need cleaned carbon off of them. I,d tune it up and start with the timing. Sometimes after wear .You have to go buy ear--. Check for vaccum leaks loose wires,bad wires. Start it up at night and raise the hood. in darkness. You might see a busy highway on the plug wires.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Smafugula,
Welcome!
Suggest you post each issue seperately in 80-96 Ford Bronco Tech Support so that others can dwell on them, such as me who usually receives error messages because I exceed image or letter restrictions.
I'll help you here on the vacuum:

For now;



See Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...2382-replace-plastic-vacuum-hoses-rubber.html

"Get the Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Engine Dress Up Kit and then an additional 10' of 4mm vacuum hose in the color of your choice. I used wire loom to protect the hose through the Intake Manifold, to the Diverter Valve and where it rubs on the Intake to the EVP. "
Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose

●
Here's the 86 Bronco Dealer Brochure at 1983 Ford Bronco 86 Bronco Brochure Photos pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
To discuss any issues, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie section. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories that require 50 posts to buy, sell or trade due to scammers who preyed on our members too many times.

1986 EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible) by Ford via Gary

1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments by Ford via Gary

1986 Bronco Operating Guide by Ford via Gary @ 1983 Ford Bronco Manuals & Pamphlets (Scanned) picture | SuperMotors.net

1986 Owner Guide by Ford via Gary

1986 Exterior Colors by Ford via Gary

1986 Bronco Accessories Catalog by Ford via Gary. @ 1986 Ford Light Truck Accessories Brochure

1980-86 Pickup Fasteners by Ford via Gary, but mostly for front clip

1986 Bronco Rapid Specs Guide by Ford via Gary @ 1986 Ford Light Truck Accessories Brochure

1986 Color & Trim Selection Options by Ford via Gary

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf. via BroncMom
Enjoy it!
Al

 

[miesk5]

Yo, part 2,

Note:
Quick Test is tge Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader

PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD 1 Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

See vacuum Location in Self Test Video in an 86; the "right side" (passenger) near the AC/Ventilation Systems Vacuum Tank
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
●
In the 86 EVTM;

 

[Tiha]

Nice find, I am kinda looking for one with that same interior.

Pretty good suggestions already posted.

tune up, plugs, wires, cap rotor.
Maybe fuel filter.
Run some type of cleaner through the tank and fuel system.

See what it sounds like then. Belts look fine.

 

[Jasgeer]

Congrats! Nice find!
I enjoyed my first year Bronco with the TTB axle and lifted it just the 2" limit with new springs and spaced out the bumper so it didn't rub the tires. The variable venturi carb sucked so glad you have the FI. I replaced the auto hubs with ones I could manually lock. I would bet the LS Ford diff is shot so you may want to consider an Eaton gear drive which was far superior to the 4X4 I do here in CA. Another repair I needed was that the double cardone rear driveshaft U-joint was worn and I needed to have a driveshaft shop rebuild/replace it to get rid of the vibration and snapping under load.
Good luck!

 

[johnnyreb]

Hey Folks! I am new here, but not new to forums.

I recently purchased this 1986 Bronco XLT. What do you think? It has the 5.0l 302 EFI motor w/ manual transmission. I really know nothing about this truck, other then that I think I overpaid a little for it. It is rust free all around except for the hood (surface) and the tailgate which is ate through a little bit from seal failure on the back window. Truck is all original except the rims, thought Ford had manual locking hubs in the 1980s but I guess not?

I am the 3rd owner (first two were family) and I was told it sat around for awhile. ****, it had a Ford Oil filter on it. Now that it is home I will concur with that statement, it needs some help under the hood. I bought it because I felt that the interior was fantastic for being 35 years old, and it had the manual transmission, which I've never seen in a Bronco of this area (Are these rare?).

It does have a problem with the motor which I am really hoping doesn't constitute a top end job. It is backfiring, loud usually but its at random sometimes and usually around 1st and 2nd, have gotten it to do it in idle as well somewhat. I haven't drove it a whole lot.. I am worried about breaking the motor. I did do an oil change and sub'd a quart of MMO which seemed to remove an intermittent ticking noise that was coming from motor (prob lifters?). Now its just the backfiring which sounds like a gun shot. Scares the **** outta the neighbors!

I did find a vacuum leak on the intake, when plugged drops RPM idle from 1100 to about 900. Does anyone have the schematics or know where this hooks up too? I just want to make sure everything I do, I do correctly. Could this backfire have anything to do with PCV valve or MAP sensors? Smog/Emissions stuff? Last time me and my buddy drove it we went around for prob 30 min with no backfiring at all. Sounded great. Then by the time we got back in the neighborhood we got some significant backfiring.

Also, Coolant sensor was replaced with a new one, fixed gauge, then later gauge stopped working again, blown sensor again? Bad ground? All other gauges work, All interior lights work, headlights/tail lights, tag lights all that works. Back window motor bearings went out a week ago. Watched some videos on that, looks like a good way to learn how to loose a finger!

Oh, and can anyone tell me if these belts look like they are done right? I am trying to figure out how the AC belt goes on, owner said it snapped off while he was driving down the road. (previous owner inherited this truck and didn't drive it but 2 miles up and down the road) I feel like I saw somewhere online where there was one continuous belt?

Anyways I know that was a lot but I am really hoping for anyone's insight on this truck and what I got here. I am young (26) and am just trying to learn and enjoy the classics. Thank you for your time!

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Looking at the back seat to the rear window. Their doesn,t to seem like any room compared to the 78-79 models. In the 89-79 you could sleep back their. Was the seat moved back buy someone or I wonder if it came from the factory like that? Nice looking bronco. Get the hood taken care of shouldn,t be hard of a job and not cost a arm and a leg at a reason place.Good luck.Welcome to the club.

 

[Smafugula]

Looking at the back seat to the rear window. Their doesn,t to seem like any room compared to the 78-79 models. In the 89-79 you could sleep back their. Was the seat moved back buy someone or I wonder if it came from the factory like that? Nice looking bronco. Get the hood taken care of shouldn,t be hard of a job and not cost a arm and a leg at a reason place.Good luck.Welcome to the club.

No indication that the backseat or anything has been altered. It’s all original in the inside beside the shifter ****.

 

[Smafugula]

Thanks guys for your input! Lots of great info. I will have to dive into what y’all shared when I get home.

wondering if this manual trans is rare for this year model? I heard it was a customer order only option. Not sure if that’s true or not

 

[Smafugula]

Also, I feel like I overpaid for this. I paid 5,200 for it. How bad did I do?

 

[Smafugula]

Congrats! Nice find!
I enjoyed my first year Bronco with the TTB axle and lifted it just the 2" limit with new springs and spaced out the bumper so it didn't rub the tires. The variable venturi carb sucked so glad you have the FI. I replaced the auto hubs with ones I could manually lock. I would bet the LS Ford diff is shot so you may want to consider an Eaton gear drive which was far superior to the 4X4 I do here in CA. Another repair I needed was that the double cardone rear driveshaft U-joint was worn and I needed to have a driveshaft shop rebuild/replace it to get rid of the vibration and snapping under load.
Good luck!

Wonder how much manually locking hubs would be? I’m focused on just getting the motor right for now. I feel like it can be made right, it starts right up and idles everytime and can be driven, just the damn backfire that’s gunna have to be taken care of

 

[johnnyreb]

Wonder how much manually locking hubs would be? I’m focused on just getting the motor right for now. I feel like it can be made right, it starts right up and idles everytime and can be driven, just the damn backfire that’s gunna have to be taken care of

 

[paul rondelli]

You did fine at 5,000. This is the first year of fuel injection so you have a OBD1 computer. I would pull codes to help troubleshoot ... isyour check engine light on.

I'm up in Suwanee and constantly work on my Broncos on the weekend. Always willing to get dirty and help

 

[johnnyreb]

Check the timing. Then cap.rotor,plugs,vaccuum hoses for cracks,breaks,wires. Park it in the dark and start it up. Raise the hood and watch for the electric fire on plug wires. Look at the coil and distributor connections for spark. Welcome to the club. Its how you feel about what you paid for it. Everyone has a different idea and different areas have different prices. Mine has had alot of new parts put in it.and I,m not about to give it away and its a 78. Plus my time. If garages can OVER CHARGE people. They can pay me for my time too. Good luck and welcome to the club. I read today where Ford had only 1 (ONE) recall on the 86. I find it hard to believe and they never mentioned what it was.

 

[johnnyreb]

No indication that the backseat or anything has been altered. It’s all original in the inside beside the shifter ****.

You might have a rare one. Mine(78) you can sleep in it. I,ll measure it today .

 

[johnnyreb]

You might have a rare one. Mine(78) you can sleep in it. I,ll measure it today .

Hope you do. hahahaha Mine is 38 inches.I measured from the rear of the seat to the tailgate.

 

[johnnyreb]

A few years ago I paid about $125 for a Warren set. Now the change over from auto to manual .It might cost a good bit more. I don,t know.Go on line and look and don,t rush it. Theirs places that you can save. Part stores won,t. They order from the net too and add more and you have to wait--just like if you order from the internet. Also check around different junk yards. The front ends are also the same as under GM AND CHRYSLER PRODUCTS. Its how they are mounted that may be different and gear ratios. On the 78-79 Fords.They have the REVERSE GEAR. Its the only 2 years like that.

 

[Smafugula]

You did fine at 5,000. This is the first year of fuel injection so you have a OBD1 computer. I would pull codes to help troubleshoot ... isyour check engine light on.

I'm up in Suwanee and constantly work on my Broncos on the weekend. Always willing to get dirty and help

I’m going to send you a PM man. I’m down here in Newnan!

 

[Smafugula]

Hope you do. hahahaha Mine is 38 inches.I measured from the rear of the seat to the tailgate.

I’ll go measure now. Got my order in today from LMC Truck. Got some weather stripping for back window (active leak inside tailgate) and a motor from Napa (Chinese).

also got some seat belt buckle holders, bulbs for overhead lamp and some other little doodads

Do y’all recommend replacing back window motor with new or repairing OEM? I figured since the new motor was $40 it was worth just replacing. But then started to think and how everything is made in China now blah blah blah