im stummped

[steechfinger]

it was running fine and i stopped to pay a toll and when i accellerated it went then the engin started sputtering and the rpm gauge went up and down then it went back to accelerating smooth again. so i pulled off the road and it spittered and the rpm uent up and down then stalled. so i got ****** and yelled cuz i was in B.F.E. with out my tools. i collected myself and went to troubleshoting i checked the wires to make sure they were connected and i checked the oil for water and the water for oil i pulled the fuel filter off and there was preasure in the line and it drained from both ends. im lost there was no smoke and there wernt fluids on the ground no leaks. so what i do know is that it turns like 1 or 2 rotations and the rear abs and e brake light keep coming on but ive replaced the whole brake system allready im stumped i think it might be the timming chain

its a 90 XLT with a 351 5.8ltr and it has new plugs wires cap and roater new air and oil filter

 

[Seabronc]

Have you checked the connector on the antilock rear axle sensor? If it is loose or corroded it may be causing the warning indications. I doubt that you have a timing chain problem, that will usually cause backfiring. Check for loose or cracked duct on the air induction system. I had a similar problem with Ford van which turned out to be the intake hose was almost off.

Good luck,

>-

 

[steechfinger]

thanks man i feel like a dums ass cuzz i just went out and pulled the plug to the ignition modual and wiped it off plugged it back in and it started but it still runs a little rough so im just gonna replace it and im gonna check that sensor in the rear. thanks alot

 

[steechfinger]

well that dident work it runs for about a minute and just dies like it ran out of gas i replaced the vacume lines wile i was changing the ignition coil any other ideas anyone

 

[snowman74]

Does anybody agree that this sounds like a fuel issue? I'm thinking Fuel Pump or Fuel Pressure Regulator. Just a thought. Don't know about the ABS light.

Snowman74 >-

 

[firelt90bronco]

How about an EGR valve? Mine gets stuck sometimes when it gets humid. When was the last time you did a tune-up. Check the spark plugs for detonation.

 

[steechfinger]

im gonna change the preasure regulator and the egr cant hurt right ill let you know i did a tune up 700 miles ago

 

[firelt90bronco]

im gonna change the preasure regulator and the egr cant hurt right ill let you know i did a tune up 700 miles ago

The only reason I figured tune up was, my *****, azzhole neighbor across the street has a '94 F250 gas pickup that dosen't sound like its gonna start and he is as mechanically talented as my boot. His level of expierence iis- if it don't start spray carb clean on it. I watched him do that once with a lawnmower that was clearly out of gas. But, he is 30 and still living at home with mommy and daddy.

 

[miesk5]

do you have a CEL?

if so, check for DTC's before you spend $ before replacing parts.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Thanks to Ryan!

 

[steechfinger]

ok i replaced the fuel preasure regulator and it ran for like 2 minutes and died but it was running nice for the 2 minutes and i just talked to the guy that sold me the truck and he said the tank and fuel pump are new well shit it only has 100thousand miles on it there is a burning smell coming fron the drivers side exhaust manafold but i dont think thats the problem so here i am again with out a ridebut i feel i must be close /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[snowman74]

ok i replaced the fuel preasure regulator and it ran for like 2 minutes and died but it was running nice for the 2 minutes and i just talked to the guy that sold me the truck and he said the tank and fuel pump are new well shit it only has 100thousand miles on it there is a burning smell coming fron the drivers side exhaust manafold but i dont think thats the problem so here i am again with out a ridebut i feel i must be close /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Burning smell from driver's side exhaust manifold? Getting to that fuel pressure regulator is a beyatch. Did you step on the power steering pump lines or anything else while replacing it? If not, probably a leaking valve cover gasket. Check your oil level....and check to see if oil is running down the side of the manifold. If you have major oil buildup around your spark plugs, you need to clean that stuff off, replace the valve cover gasket and clean or replace the spark plugs.

That aside...

FIRST...Make sure your battery terminals are not corroded, and the wires are on tight and your terminal connectors are not cracked. If you can turn em by hand, they are too loose. That could be your problem.

If the fuel pressure regulator didn't help...and you're certain the fuel pump is good...and you're certain the fuel filter is good, and installed correctly....hmmm. Take the plastic cover off the coil. Take the wire loose. Take some emory cloth, or steel wool and clean the terminal on the coil. Make sure the wire is not corroded. Use some electrical contact cleaner if you have to. Re-assemble.

If that doesn't work, I'm thinking Idle Air Control Valve....maybe.

 

[steechfinger]

that regulater was the pits that back allen ***** just dident want to go in .i did notice a little build up of oil on the rear drivers side sparkplug . i just put a new coil on it sunday and my plugs and wires have less than a thousand miles on them and i put new battery cables in cuz mine were shot. im going to get that code reader im a minute and i guess ill get the idle air control valve and the valve gaskets **** it cant hurt and its only money and time haha ) ................... oh and the eheck engine light has never came on but it works cuz it comes on when i turn the key to on

 

[snowman74]

Yes, those underside allen screws are a pain in the a$$.

Hmmm, Are all of your wires in the correct position? Is the distributor on tight? Are you having any fuel leaks?

Snowman74 >-

 

[steechfinger]

i just bought a code reader but they dident have the adaptor for the bronco but i ordered it and should have it mondaybut im gonna change the valve cover gaskets and that valve on sunday and see if that dose it. iu want to re paint the valve covers anyways. is there a upper intake manafold gasket? and is there a way to polish the inner manafold and throdle body?

 

[miesk5]

i just bought a code reader but they dident have the adaptor for the bronco but i ordered it and should have it mondaybut im gonna change the valve cover gaskets and that valve on sunday and see if that dose it. iu want to re paint the valve covers anyways. is there a upper intake manafold gasket? and is there a way to polish the inner manafold and throdle body?

Return the reader and DIY with Ryan's info.

Come back w/Codes

 

[snowman74]

Return the reader and DIY with Ryan's info.

Come back w/Codes

Yes, don't go taking the valve cover gaskets and other stuff apart until you KNOW exactly what the problem is. Those valve cover gaskets are a pain in the a$$ to replace...and you don't even want to get into the intake manifold. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Let's all see what the code reads.

Snowman74 >-

 

[steechfinger]

allright i got some codes with the wire the first was 11 wich my book here says system pass so thats a good thing and the second was 18 or 118 im not sure cuz the first time it was 1.1.8.1.8 so im a little confused but this book says 18 is spout circuit open or spark angle word failure and idm citcuit failure or spout circuit grounded. 118is ect sensor circuit open so i have no idea what that means but it dont sound good )

 

[miesk5]

allright i got some codes with the wire the first was 11 wich my book here says system pass so thats a good thing and the second was 18 or 118 im not sure cuz the first time it was 1.1.8.1.8 so im a little confused but this book says 18 is spout circuit open or spark angle word failure and idm citcuit failure or spout circuit grounded. 118is ect sensor circuit open so i have no idea what that means but it dont sound good )

we'll go with Door #1!...Code 18;

EZiest checks first;

Make sure SPOUT Connector is in place; if so, remove it and clean contacts.

Ck for Codes again after clearing codes

Now, I forget when Ford moved the SPOUT Conn from distr to fender

so a location pic by Jem270 in distr. area

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/249442/...0connectors.jpg

& one near driever's side hood hinge by Sandy

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/306361/fullsize/spout.jpg

& by Ryan

http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/selftest02.gif

Ck timing;

Unplug the SPOUT connector and see if the timing is set correctly per the decal, should

probably be 10 deg BTDC

How to time it by Ryan;

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=71

If Code 18 pops up again;

It is likely a bad TFI Module or Hall Effect Sensor that is a magnetic pick-up unit located inside the distributor.

Read this:

TFI Module Recall article by summitlake.com

http://www.summitlake.com/COMMENTARY/Ford_Ignitions.html

esp. "...The Bronco was rapidly slowing down, the engine sounded like it was not firing properly, and trucks were starting to pass me at high relative speed. I was a vehicle in obvious distress. There was a strong smell of gasoline, like a flooded engine. .."

& RECALL!!!!!!!!!!!!

TFI Module Settlement by The Center for Auto Safety

http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=103&did=568

TFI & Hall Effect:

Hall Effect Sensor & TFI Testing (for stangs, but similar) by P B

http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang/tfi.html

Ford TFI Module Failure

by http://www.niehoff.com/techtips/ford.html

Anytime a Ford TFI module is diagnosed as having failed, several steps should be followed.

1. Verify charging system operation; specifically, charging voltage.

2. Verify ignition system operation; specifically, there are no open or disconnected plug wires.

3. Remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out.

 

[steechfinger]

allright i got it running again and better than beforenow the only code get is 11 wich is system pass i think i need to adjust the timming cuz i had to take the distributer compleatly out to change the tfi module so ill see how it is the next few days hope its good