I'm no mechanic...what next?

[DunnellonDave]

Hey guys! Just got my 70 out of the shop. Had a new lift and power steering installed. On the way home it missed really bad then ran fine. Now when I drive it, maybe 10 minutes into a drive it starts missing and bucking and all kinda bad stuff. I'm trying to gigure out if its a fuel problem or a spark problem. It can start running bad, usually while going along and then taking my foot out of it. I have a clear filter going into the carb and it seems like it has alot of bubbles and not much fuel in it so the first thing I did was replace the fuel filter coming out of the gas tank. No luck. Here are a few of my questions. Being the carb filter doesnt hold much fuel, could it be the fuel pump taking a crap? I mean, I would think a mechanical pump would work or not? Maybe the coil crapping out? I am getting ready to install a new high spark coil anyways, hopefully one that doesnt need that little resistor thingy that smoke when the key is left on. Or maybe the carb has trash in it? I guess, where to start now? Anyone still run the old Jacobs coils? I understand Accel manufactures them now? I sold my Bronco to a buddy 10 years back and just recently got it back. He had the motor rebuilt and unhooked the jacobs coils I had (it might have gone bad) and put a regular coil with one of them resistors on it and I am looking to get that out of there. Any recomendations? Thanks!

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Dave..,

"I have a clear filter going into the carb and it seems like it has alot of bubbles and not much fuel in it"

This is one of the big mysteries of automotion/life..! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

All my filters do the same thing. Sometimes full, empty, or somewhere in-between. There's air in the line but the fuel still travels on thru.

"I am getting ready to install a new high spark coil anyways, hopefully one that doesnt need that little resistor thingy"

You need a resistor to drop voltage to 6v or you'll burn up the points pretty fast. (Unless you converted back to a "pointless dizzy") Your '77 came with the Ford Duraspark electronic ignition with a "module." The modules were known (rumor has it) for some issues.

Some coils have the "internal resistor"

The stumbling could be any of a number of things..., fuel, ignition, timing chain, dirty carb bowl/jets, plugged pick-up tube/filter inside tank. Pumps usually leak out the weep-hole when they're bad. The exception being debris caught in one of the check valves.

All the connectors/wires to the ignition components are suspecious as well.

 

[DunnellonDave]

Thanks for the reply BB. Let me throw this one at you. Why does a filter rght outside the fuel tank thats twice as big as the one by the carburator stay full while the one at the carb looks hungry for fuel? I guess I will start with replacing the coil and the fuel filter, and go from the there...

 

[Bully Bob]

Wellllll...,

My guess is air remains static or rises.., the fuel flows down as to gravity. :-B

Even if you pulled the carb gas line, held it up high & filled it with an eye-dropper/turkey baster 'til the filter remained full.., then quickly put the hose back on the carb ******, it (the filter) would likely find some air over time. The idea behind clear filters is to view the media for debris. If it's dirty, that's a sign there may be a problem up-stream of that filter. I always cut the filters in 1/2 & examine the media to check for contamination..

Remember.., the fuel is under press. after the pump. however, it barely trickles along due to the needle & seat opening & closing the feed into the carb. :-"

As to the coil., it may be bad but again, it needs to match your other ignition components. Auto parts can test your coil.

 

[DunnellonDave]

Well Bob, I started with the cheapest thing I could think of. That 4.95 resistor I just dispise. One reason I am going to upgrade to a coil that has one built in. I replaced that and its back to running like a champ!While I am at it. I just had power steering installed and it seems I can turn the wheel a mile to the left but a very short way to the right. Is that something thats adjustable or just how these things work? Thanks!

 

[Bully Bob]

Good job..,

Nothing wrong with those resistors really..., they were used on thousands of vehicles.

I would think the coils with internal resistors would heat up a tad..

"...seems I can turn the wheel a mile to the left but..."

Sounds like that "shop" needs some training on how to hook up, & center steering. It's not "rocket science".., I would take it back & make them do it right..!!

The lift changes all the settings/geometry.

The rule of thumb is; "for every modification, there's two more needed to make things right" ...!!

With the str. wheel centered, & the pitman arm centered & pointing "straight" back.., it's a matter of hook'n the linkage up W/O moving any of the aforementioned.

Oh & BTW.., it's likely you'll need a new adj. track-bar & adj. drag-link. The lift sometimes makes the stock ones un-usable. (meaning that's likely why they put it together in 1/2 a turn to get it to line up.)

The front wheels req. about 1/8th. inch "toe-in"

The '77 has an inverted "Y" linkage. This may be a good time to convert to the older "T" type linkage. The "Y" was never popular for various reasons.

 

[Seabronc]

Check your fule line. I had bubbles in mine once and found that I Had a very tiney leak that caused it to **** in air while the engine was runnning but not drip when the engine was off. It was in a small section of rubber on the top side coutresy of a mouse. He must of got the tase of gas when chewing on the line and quit.

Good luck,