High Idle

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chet.rowell

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i just bought a 93 bronco test drove it and it ran fine but when the more the truck worms up it while start to idle in high rps. and with it being icy down here when i hold the brake and put in drive at high rps the rear burns out making it difficult to drive so far i have replace the vacum solonoid and now i dont have a clue what to do

 

BroncoJoe19

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High idle is usually a vacuum leak, a dirty IAC, or a faulty TPS.

I'd check for a vacuum leak, and pull diagnostic codes. And hope for a sticky IAC. The TPS is a bit of a B to do in the cold.

How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

Howto Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more

Checking for vacuum leaks.

Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.

Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Remember to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet.

 
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chet.rowell

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i will start it and let it run for 10-15 mins then the idle stays down but when i give it gas is when the idle stays at a high rpm then i though maybe the trotle is sticking so i cleaned the **** out of it and it still does it

 

Seabronc

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i will start it and let it run for 10-15 mins then the idle stays down but when i give it gas is when the idle stays at a high rpm then i though maybe the trotle is sticking so i cleaned the **** out of it and it still does it
Has the sound of a TPS sticking. Have you pulled the codes?

:)>-

 
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chet.rowell

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i just took the entire throtle system apart cleaned the iac and the tps and i noticed one of the bolts to the throtle body was extreamly loose so i made sure all bolts are tightened and i also notice the gasket had a break in the middle of it

 

BroncoJoe19

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Good job! That definitely would have caused a vacuum leak. Did that fix your high idle?

 
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chet.rowell

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not sure yet ..... i have the battery to the truck on a charger due to truck. needs a tune up and refuses to start in this cold weather. it has ran in the last week or so due to me trying to find out this problem. that and im wating on the new gasket to arive if im going to fix it i figure i out to due it right so when i get in and install i will update. thank you for you time and expertise

 

Mike G

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I'm still fitting the same problem. It will run fine for a month and spend the next 3 weeks idling around 15 grand. Did the gasket fix your problems?

Thanks

Mike

 
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chet.rowell

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I'm still fitting the same problem. It will run fine for a month and spend the next 3 weeks idling around 15 grand. Did the gasket fix your problems?
Thanks

Mike
no mike it is in the shop i just got done with wasting my time they are going to call me tommarow and let me know. as soon as i know. i will let you know okay

 

Mike G

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I went that route also. 70 bucks in diagnostics and picked it up 3 hours later with the guys scratching there heads. They thought it might be the TPS but couldn't say for sure. Even their high speed, low drag, Teflon coated, air cooled, shoulder fired, magazine feed, gas operated Snap On Tool diagnostic box didn't have an answer for them.

What gets me is that mine is so intermittent. I've looked everywhere for the low idle on off switch under the hood. LOL

Hope yours turns out better and waiting for your reply.

Mike

 

Mike G

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Thanks Chet.

Guess I'll have to bit the bullet and change out the TPS.

Mike

 

Mike G

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Bronco Joe

Yes I pulled them a few weeks ago and again this evening. Had a whole shopping list this time.

2 weeks ago 121 Closed throttle voltage higher or lower then expected

Today

121

126 MAP above or below normal

327 EVP circuit below minimum voltage

328 EGR closed voltage lower then expected

According to Haynes if it is the TPS it should be codes 122 through 125.

I cleared the codes and the 121 remained on retest. I'll pull them again tomorrow after a day of driving and see what I get.

It's driving me mad. After the guys at the shop had it on their box and couldn't pin point anything it idled great for the next 3 weeks. While in the shop they hung a new MAP and it mad no difference. I've already changed the AIC about 2 month ago. This is the longest it has been idling high. 15 to 18 grand.

Boy I sure miss the days of checking the dwell, setting the timing and adjusting the floats on a Holley.

Kick the tires, light the fire.

Thoughts?

Mike

 
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chet.rowell

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okay mike i would replace the tps then i woul have you get the codes again after words to see if there is a change. the shop i took my bronco to said that is what is was on my and my tps was telling the computer that is was that the throttle was open all the way

 

Mike G

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Ya Chet I think I'll tackle that tomorrow. Fun Fun!

Thanks

Mike

 

BroncoJoe19

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Mike,

With all of those sensors giving bad voltages, I'd suspect that they are low, and due perhaps to a poor ground.

I'd check the big fat ones from the battery to the engine block, and the ones that go to both sides of the radiator support, and the one that is near the PCM on the firewall. At least those... then the others listed.

Here is a list of grounds for a '92 - '96 bronc

I took a look in my Haynes manual.

They list 10 separate grounds... A-J.

A. Starter mounting bolt

B. Right front of Engine compartment near the battery

C. Lower left front of engine

D. Right front of engine compartment on upper radiator support.

E. Left front of engine compartment Upper radiator support

F. Bottom of cowl panel

G. Rear of left fender apron

H. Behind bottom of right cowl panel

I. Left rear corner of cargo area near rear lamp assembly

J. Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member.

Ground number and locations in 1990 Bronco EVTM

G100 LH side of Radiator support

G101 RH side of Radiator support

G102 RH side of Radiator support

G103 LH rear side of engine, near knock sensor

G104 LH rear side of engine compartment, near electronic engine control (EEC) module, on the left fender close to the firewall

G105 LH Side of engine

G106 RH fender apron, near voltage regulator

G107 RH fender apron, at starter relay

G108 RH fender apron, at voltage regulator

G109 RH fender apron

G201 LH rear side of I/P (looking at the diagram it is at the bottom of the driver's side dash assembly. Screwed to the bottom edge, just to the left of the steering column. It is the ground for the instrument cluster)

G202 Behind RH cowl panel

G203 RH rear side of radiator support

G204 On steering column

G205 Behind Center of I/P (Dash), near speed control amplifier

G400 LH side of cargo area, near rear light assembly

G401 Below LH side of cargo area, near crossmember

G500 Inside driver's door, near left door speaker

 

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