Hey everyone, just wanted to say thanks for all the great info i have got from this site. I am about to do rotors on my 96 Bronco with Auto Hubs. I am finding all different things about what Lock nut socket to use. I have found everything from 4 lug, to 6 lug to the rounded socket with no lugs on it. Any help? I wanted to get the tool before I tear it apart cause then I wont have a way to get to the store. Thanks.
Help with Locknut Socket 96 Bronco
- Thread starter Bumpnfd
- Start date
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yo B!
95/96 factory 3 ***** auto hubs are revised from earlier years and they have a diff shaped socket; rounded edge type, like this;
Bearing Locknut Socket pic (OTC 6795 for 95-96); rounded hex locknut 2 1/2"
Should be avail at most auto parts places.
3 ***** Diagram for 5/95-96 by Steve
here are the torque's from the Ford Serv Manual (EVTM/PCED for our 96 (this is for 3 ***** cap auto locking hubs & 1 locknut):
Bearing Locknut Torque for 95-96 AUTO Hubs; While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."
Some great info from da Juice:
"The hub cap screws, go SNUG on these only. Seen too many too tight little bitty cap screws snap off. I use locktight blue, just a little, near the thread end, to keep them from loosening. You can also use a little high temp silcone gasket maker on the ***** heads to help fight water entry right where the screws heads enter the cap. There might be a general torque setting for these, but there are two different kinds of screws, and several makers of the manual hub caps, and they all fit just a bit different, so going by feel and using the locktight/silicone seems to work best.
With hubs, keeping them clean is critical, so the hub seals are also a critical piece to keep in good shape, as is using the best possible grease you can ( I use valvoline synthetic)...only thing on my truck, besides steering components, where I use synthetics. NEVER use too much grease, so many people do this. Hub manuf. warn of greasing up their hubs too much when you install them, no warranty if you do. Also, the bearings need to be packed, and a little grease left around the bearing, and on the spindle where they ride, and maybe a light coat inside the hub just keep keep any potential moisture from rusting components, but a bunch of grease is not needed nor good packed all inside the hub or out on the hub and axleshaft ends.
.....
from me... via Ford Tech CD for 96 Bronco - auto locking hubs:
"Installation
1. Align the fixed cam retaining key on the cam assembly (garter spring inboard) with the keyway on the spindle. Firmly press the cam assembly on the wheel retainer nut.
2. CAUTION: Improper sequence of three-piece ****** washers will result in excessive wear of assembly.
Install three-piece ****** washer set (first metal, second plastic, third splined) and retainer lock ring on C-clip. It may be necessary to push the axle outboard from backside of knuckle. Be sure retaining ring is seated in groove properly.
3. CAUTION: Rotate moving cam stop (use any one of three) to the one o'clock position in relationship to the fixed cam retaining key.
CAUTION: Do not force body assembly into front disc brake hub on rotor if body assembly will not fit. Recheck alignment of all components.
Note: The hubs should not be packed with grease. Too much grease will damage the hubs and prevent proper operation.
Install body assembly into vehicle front disc brake hub and rotor by lining up the three legs outside the hublock body with the three pockets in the cam assembly.
4. Make sure body assembly is in far enough to see groove in rotor tube. Install large lock ring into groove of hub. Be sure lock ring is correctly seated.
5. Install cap to body assembly. Install three capscrews and tighten to 4-6 N-m (35-53 lb-in)."
Hook Set, pic, typical, for removing C Clips especially in 95-96 3 ***** hubs; 4 Pc Dominator
95/96 factory 3 ***** auto hubs are revised from earlier years and they have a diff shaped socket; rounded edge type, like this;
Bearing Locknut Socket pic (OTC 6795 for 95-96); rounded hex locknut 2 1/2"
Should be avail at most auto parts places.
3 ***** Diagram for 5/95-96 by Steve
here are the torque's from the Ford Serv Manual (EVTM/PCED for our 96 (this is for 3 ***** cap auto locking hubs & 1 locknut):
Bearing Locknut Torque for 95-96 AUTO Hubs; While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."
Some great info from da Juice:
"The hub cap screws, go SNUG on these only. Seen too many too tight little bitty cap screws snap off. I use locktight blue, just a little, near the thread end, to keep them from loosening. You can also use a little high temp silcone gasket maker on the ***** heads to help fight water entry right where the screws heads enter the cap. There might be a general torque setting for these, but there are two different kinds of screws, and several makers of the manual hub caps, and they all fit just a bit different, so going by feel and using the locktight/silicone seems to work best.
With hubs, keeping them clean is critical, so the hub seals are also a critical piece to keep in good shape, as is using the best possible grease you can ( I use valvoline synthetic)...only thing on my truck, besides steering components, where I use synthetics. NEVER use too much grease, so many people do this. Hub manuf. warn of greasing up their hubs too much when you install them, no warranty if you do. Also, the bearings need to be packed, and a little grease left around the bearing, and on the spindle where they ride, and maybe a light coat inside the hub just keep keep any potential moisture from rusting components, but a bunch of grease is not needed nor good packed all inside the hub or out on the hub and axleshaft ends.
.....
from me... via Ford Tech CD for 96 Bronco - auto locking hubs:
"Installation
1. Align the fixed cam retaining key on the cam assembly (garter spring inboard) with the keyway on the spindle. Firmly press the cam assembly on the wheel retainer nut.
2. CAUTION: Improper sequence of three-piece ****** washers will result in excessive wear of assembly.
Install three-piece ****** washer set (first metal, second plastic, third splined) and retainer lock ring on C-clip. It may be necessary to push the axle outboard from backside of knuckle. Be sure retaining ring is seated in groove properly.
3. CAUTION: Rotate moving cam stop (use any one of three) to the one o'clock position in relationship to the fixed cam retaining key.
CAUTION: Do not force body assembly into front disc brake hub on rotor if body assembly will not fit. Recheck alignment of all components.
Note: The hubs should not be packed with grease. Too much grease will damage the hubs and prevent proper operation.
Install body assembly into vehicle front disc brake hub and rotor by lining up the three legs outside the hublock body with the three pockets in the cam assembly.
4. Make sure body assembly is in far enough to see groove in rotor tube. Install large lock ring into groove of hub. Be sure lock ring is correctly seated.
5. Install cap to body assembly. Install three capscrews and tighten to 4-6 N-m (35-53 lb-in)."
Hook Set, pic, typical, for removing C Clips especially in 95-96 3 ***** hubs; 4 Pc Dominator
