yo Adam;
Yep, those are what you need.
Altho I want to support our SPONSOR here; Jeff's bronco Graveyard... if you need those bushings NOW.. (as well as since they are relatively inexpensive as compared to the 1000s of more pricey parts Jeff's has available to us...
Also; Watch out for the Dorman HELP brand stuff now....the driver/passenger door striker kit w/ bushings, 38445 are not fffin good..
bushing diameter is way off and striker frame is off as well....it will bolt-in, but aligning it for a no-rattle fit is efffin a waste of time and possible damage to passenger or driver.
the Dorman HELP tail gate striker bushings pn 38424 are a good fit & the door bushings driver/passenger bushings are incl. in this kit & fit better than the 38445 part! Made from urethane thermoplastic. assortment contains 2 each of the following sizes: 1/2" I.D. x 5/8" and 1/2" I.D. x 1"
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
======
Also;
Repair Synopsis; "...Be aware that: The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate linked below. Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor. When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch. Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires. There are 2 seperate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch. The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches). When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate. Testing: Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's & Adrianspeeder's ... links. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked.... To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing). A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: -Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. -It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement. C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's ...link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong
=
Many more TG TECH LINKs in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478
btw; I mjust had to weld the two moror/regulator support brackets at tg hinge side last week due to rust... I know from one of your other posts that you have paint bubbles in various areas; so, figure on removing rust and debris inside the TG and applying good primer/paint... and maybe welding
Weatherstripping is also avial from local Foed dealers.. but Jeff's has good stuff.
Weather Seal Installation & Part Numbers; 80 - 96; "...Finally got around to replacing the w/stripping at the top of the tailgate in my 1989. Went down to my friendly FORD Dealer and ordered the parts shown below. Took two days to get all four pcs. (1) D8TZ-984 1610-A $26.58 Outside Horz strip that rubs window. (1) F6TZ-984 2072-AA $16.60 Inside Horz strip that rubs window. (1) E7TZ-984 1617-A $9.48 LH end seal. (1) E7TZ-984 1616-A $9.48 RH end seal. That totals $62.14 before sales tax. It's a real 'snap' to do this job - about 15-20 mins is all. Remove the end seals - There is one ***** in each seal - you have to kind of twist them to get them out - you will see how they fit so you can get the new ones back in properly. Next remove the outside horz strip - look as the new one to see how it's clipped into the tailgate - I used a puttyknife to gently pry the clips up and out - easy to do. There is a ***** at each end. Next remove the inside Horz strip like you did the outside. Install the new inside strip, guiding the clips into their holes, starting at one end and working across - you can push the clips 'home' when you have them all started - again, it's a real 'snap'. Install the outside strip in the same manner - you may have to use a thin, flat bar to seat these clips - I used the end of a thin board so I wouldn't damage the strip. Install the two screws. Install the end seals - a little tricky, as the inside edge has a 'slot' in the rubber that has to be inserted and pulled back to seal. If you have trouble, it's best to practice with the old seal till you get it down - there's a metal insert inside the rubber that you don't want to distort on the new seals. Practice makes perfect. Install the two screws and you are done!..."
Source: by Mexray as of 2002
WS Parts Break-Out Diagrams in 78-96 w/Ford part numbers; 1978-96 D8TZ-9851322-A Removable Roof Front Seal On fiberglass roof; D8TZ-98513C22-PR Removable Roof Side Panel Seals on 78-79; D8TZ-9854732-A Front Roof Rear Seal on metal roof on 78-79; E1TZ-98422A20-A Back Window Glass Lower Side Run, RH or LH on 78-96
Source: by bwautoparts.com via web.archive.org
http://web.archive.org/web/20060317110928/http://www.bwautoparts.com/bronco/BroncoCat2003.062.htm
other sources are;
see my site @
http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/BroncoPartSources/index.htm
First, Look in the FREE PARTS CATALOGS! Section at top of page
see site for HOT LINKS TO:
Auto Krafters - Bronco/Ford truck parts & accessories; now has Bronco catalog (78-79); "...$5.00 fees valid only in United States Of America. Canadian Catalog requests require a $6.00 fee; Catalogs ordered with other items totaling over $20 (before shipping), are free"; Click Catalogs
Balkamp (NAPA) - parts & accessories; Click Catalog Request
Blue Oval Truck Parts - Bronco/Ford truck parts & accessories; "...$5.00; This amount will be reimbursed with first order"; Click Order Catalog
LMC TRUCK® (Long Motor Corporation) - Bronco/Ford truck parts & accessories & 66-77 & 80-96 Bronco weather stripping & camper top side window sliders (Manufactured by C.R. Laurence); Click Free Catalog
Metro Moulded Parts - rubber restoration parts & Bronco/Ford truck weather stripping; Click Free Catalog
Mill Supply - Bronco/Ford truck body parts; Click Order a Catalog
National Parts Depot - Bronco/Ford truck parts & accessories; Click Order your Printed NPD catalog
SoffSeal (formerly A&M Soffseal) - Bronco/Ford truck weather stripping & rubber; Click Free Catalog
Steele Rubber Products - Bronco/Ford truck weather stripping & rubber; Click REQUEST A CATALOG
JC Whitney - MANY parts & accessories; Click Order a FREE CATALOG
