Help. I am completely stumped

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Z

Zacs_mind

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Hello fellow bronco people.

Alright so I recently picked up an 88 5.0 from a buddy of mine. He got it after sitting 20 years or so in a garage. He got it going drove it 3 or 4 times around 60 miles round trip each no issue. Started acting funny (rough die-hard to start).

This is where I come in. It's my toy now.

Got it over to the house with a tow. Started messing with it and I cannot figure out why it will not start. Yes it has spark yes it has fuel yes it has air haha. I've pulled a plug and they smell like fuel crank it over and felt compression. Swapped cap a rotar I had a set. Found an article where they said their issue was a coolant temp sensor so I swapped that. I just dont get it.

It cranks and cranks. Acts like it's about to spark up and then nothing.

Any ideas?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Zacs_mind,

Welcome!


Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and if it can get it to run long enough, greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.Run it around to heat the engine up if you can, and shift thru all gears including Reverse.Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.Do KOEO test FirstPost Code(s) here according to:KOEO & KOERA helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTSOr ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you. The majority of parts chain stores tests just OBDII vehicles now.Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores...For a 96, have it tested for free at most parts stores.□Unplug the MAP sensor on the passenger side firewall and see if it starts. If it starts, you have a bad MAP sensor. Typically the computer will throw a MAP communication code for that one though.by Lil' RedMAP Location picsensors2.jpgby Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit)¤Unplug/test & clean the IAC by SeattleFSB @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...-your-iac.htmlSome no code usual suspects by Ford;Vacuum leak, see my leak diagnosis link in post #11 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...odes-idle.htmlAir filter, is it relatively clean?Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing, openings in tubing, loose fit at throttle body or if at MAF sensor.Fuel quality; Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.Electrical connectors; inspect for corrosion, etc at coil, firewall, ICM, distributor, PCM, etc. especially those with broken locking tabs.


Troubleshooting Fuel Injection Problems with a Noid Light;


Occasionally, you may have to troubleshoot a no-start condition, a misfiring or a bad fuel injector in a vehicle. A Fuel Injector Noid Light is one of those indispensable tools that will help you to diagnose the maladies affecting most of the fuel-injected vehicles on the road today. The Noid light test in conjunction with several others will help you find the root cause of the misfire or no-start that your vehicle may be experiencing.

In most vehicles, the fuel injection computer feeds power and switching signals to the fuel injector. With this nifty tool, you can confirm visually that the fuel injector is receiving both. Although the tool will not confirm whether the fuel injector is malfunctioning, it will confirm that the fuel injector is receiving both power as well as the switching/pulse signals. If one of these is not reaching, the fuel injector is not going to work." Read more @ https://www.apexinds.com/blog/troubleshooting-fuel-injection-problems-noid-light/

Rent it @ some parts stores, especially mom and pop owned: unplug one of the fuel injectors and plug the NOID light in. Then crank the engine and if the NOID light flashes the computer is grounding the injectors OK. But if you can smell raw gas at the tailpipe when you crank engine over.

Or, try this injector test; "...With eveything connected normally & the key in RUN, pierce the OTHER wire (not the Red one) on any ONE injector & tap it BRIEFLY to ground. Do you hear half the injectors click open & then closed? Put a finger on each one to feel which ones are working. If some of them don't open, repeat the test, holding the ground SLIGHTLY longer each time, but never more than 3 sec continuously...Repeat this for the 2nd bank of injectors (just one with a different color wire)..." by Steve

More on Troubleshoot a Cranks, but No Start @ https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...t-a-no-start-1
 
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