Help! engine smoking bad from driver side on/around exhaust manifo

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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

Ok, do the evp test.

Code 33 means it's trying to open the EGR valve, but it's not able to tell that it's opening. That's why you're getting that rough idle. the PCM is trying to get it open by applying a greater vacuum signal, and it is probably doing so to an excessive amount because it doesn't have any clue it's really opening.

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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ok did a egr valve gasket and valve replacement and its fine now...but the battery died so it was sitting out in the rain for about 2 days and now it feels like the torque converter has just decided to go out for some reason....i had to floor it to get up my driveway and the car doesn't move under its own power when you don't press the gas..it also squeaks now a bit like a old fan belt would. It vibrates slightly and I think when I started the car last and put it in drive..it died and rolled backwards...I don't know if going in reverse is really bad when your tranny is in drive but thats my new problem...also saw a few little bubbles in the trans fluid.

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Wow..great diy work Gerrad!

What transmission is in there?

AOD have 14 pan bolts

E4OD have 20 pan bolts

C6 have 17 pan bolts

Fluid Venting or Foaming by Ford;

Possible Component Reference/Action

261 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE

No Electrical Concerns

361 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE

Vent blocked or damaged

Check vent for damage or blockage. Service as required.

miesk5 note: The vent for the E4OD is located on the top, dead center, about even with (or a hair aft of) the first stiffening rib. It's a little metal cap. Same for AOD.

Overfilled transmission

Check level and adjust as required.

Fluid contaminated (coolant, water)

Check for contamination, locate source of contamination. Service as required.

Overheating

Refer to Routine No. 257/357.

Filter assembly and seal damaged or misassembled

Inspect filter assembly and seal for damage. Service as required.

Pump to case gasket damaged, misaligned

Inspect for damage and replace.

Will look at other transmission issues after identification.

 

miesk5

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Yo,

AOD P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D) - Indicator pic by trigger @

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/RampageFSJ/media/a4-1.jpg.html

I haven't worked on an aod, but have this info, based on my interpretation of the current issues:

SLIPPING,

Check fluid level and condition

In 1st, 2nd, or reverse - internal problem

In 3rd and/or 4th gear - Check TV pressure

Ok = clutch or band failure

Low = Clutch or band failure - possibly

caused by vehicle problem or improper installation.

Or,

Late, harsh, or no shift = TV pressure too high, check and adjust

Governor stuck or dragging - clean governor

Valve body problem - replace valve body

 

miesk5

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Yo,

On the "...i had to floor it to get up my driveway..."

Could be TV cable or throttle linkage.

AOD works fine in Park, Reverse, and Neutral, and will move forward in OD, D, and Low, but is always in first gear, what could cause this?

Miesk5 note, I believe you have tv cable instead of linkage.

There are a few common causes for this. The first is a disconnected or missing TV linkage. If the TV linkage is disconnected the transmission should default to full TV pressure which will make the transmission shift as if it were at Wide Open Throttle all the time. It is also possible that the TV valve in the valve body is stuck in the high pressure position. The easiest way to see if this is the case is to perform a TV pressure test as shown on our TV Linkage Adjustment Page.

at

http://www.becontrols.com/tvlinkage.shtml

You could also have a stuck governor, or a stuck 1-2 shift valve. If the governor is sticking it will cause a delayed, or no upshift, depending on how bad the condition causing the sticking is. If the 1-2 shift valve is stuck, and will not stroke, the transmission will not shift out of first gear.

****

and "...the car doesn't move under its own power when you don't press the gas..." can you re-write this?

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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Well what I mean by the car not moving, is when you start a car and put it in gear it should move without opening the throttle right? It should move just with idle rpms...mine used to but now I need to get up to 3000 rpm before it even starts to move...and still excessively viberates the whole time

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Ok,I understand.

Any evidence of wet ignition parts/plug wires, etc.?

Is check engine light on?

Want to do another self test for codes?

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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No evidence of wet ignition parts...and cel is broken....but the red "engine" light works however it is not on...Will check for codes once the weather warms up enough

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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And another thing...when I last did the self test..it will only give me codes when i do the koer test...if I do koeo tedt I get the "system checks ok"..so it is a running issue most likely

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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Welp so i tried starting the car..other than the vacuum leak the transmission stopped acting up...i feel like it had to do with the cold weather but I still dont know exactly...either way it still needs a rebuild and overhaul

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Cold weather, reminds me of the Chevy power glide that would wait until the engine was at normal operating temperature to get with the program.

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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Ok so it looks like I am getting a misfire and the hard starting/rough idle/knocking tells me it is the egr valve that is at least part of it...I cant think or anything else..and I will replace the spark plugs while im at it....but when i did the koer test I held the rpms at 2500 but when I brought it down it made an extremely unholy grinding/whining noise then it stalled...it restarted fine but I cant figure out why it did that.

 

miesk5

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Yo,

I can'tell even guess at the latest noise issue, except that the starter was somehow energized or was the drive was hung up.

 

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