Help! engine smoking bad from driver side on/around exhaust manifo

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Gerrad Reynolds

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So I recently took off my valve covers to clean them off and replace the gaskets cuz of leaking oil...put everything back together and removed the spark plugs on the driver side and inspected them....put them right back in although they will need changed...tried to start the car and after a few seconds smoke came pouring from around exhaust manifolds and spark plugs...it looks white but could also be blue...I dont want to do much more because I am afraid It might start a fire. This is currently only a driver side deal...I also cleaned it with water and degreaser this morning but It was evaporated by then

 

miesk5

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Yo Gerrad,

Do see any loss of coolant in recovery tank?

Is oil evident in coolant?

Symptom Chart — Engine Cooling

ENGINE COOLING

Condition Possible Source Action

Loss of Coolant

Damaged radiator.

Damaged water pump.

***Loose/damaged radiator hoses.***

***Loose/damaged heater water hoses.***

***Damaged heater core or tubes***.

***Damaged radiator overflow hose***

***Damaged engine gaskets.***

Damaged radiator coolant recovery reservoir.

Internal engine coolant leak.

Since you hear hissing after you shut her down, combined with apparent coolant aroma, suspect engine is possibly overheating and/or leaking coolant.Even though you started it briefly, how was temperature gauge looking during driving and when you turned it off?

In case you do detect coolant and can'take see the source, consider doing PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM

_____________

Here is a summary of EXHAUST smoke symptoms and causes: JUST IN CASE YOU SEE EXHAUST SMOKE WHILE STARTING ENGINE IN MORNING OR SOMEONE DRIVES IT AWAY FOR YOU TO STAY BEHIND AND OBSERVE:

Less $ first (less worries as well!)

Blue/Gray Smoke:

PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Oil burning in the combustion chamber. Pull a few spark plugs & ck iaw Spark Plug Diagnostic Chart

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_146124990119914&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=inaecgf601000bgv000MAj6v4khou8ihn&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fullsizebronco.com%2Fforum%2F21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone%2F306441-blue-smoke.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gsparkplug.com%2Fshop%2Fspark-plug-fault-diagnosis%2F&title=Blue%20Smoke%20-%20Ford%20Bronco%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gsparkplug.com%2Fshop%2Fspark...ult-diagnosis%2F

Oil Deposits Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting and misfiring.

Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine shut down.

Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide allows oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.

Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

--

Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:

Fuel Injectors: A leaking or dripping fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.

Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.

Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.

--

White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:

Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.

by ASE Study Guide

....

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

Gerrad Reynolds

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Well I only had it running for about a minute and there is oil deposits on the passenger side exhaust but that wouldnt smoke...the engine wasnt on long enough to even get hot to the touch...whatever it is seems to have a low evaporating temp because I dont see the oil burning but I will start it again and post a picture and any more info I get

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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And all of the coolant system is intact and was working before I took the valves off...its also a quick hiss..lasts about a second but long enough to notice

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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Ok I narrowed it down...it is smoke/steam coming from oil deposits where the exhaust manifold bolts on the pipe down on the bottom of the engine...it seems to be burning off as it is less than before

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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Thanks..and about running codes I got 33 and 10..33 being the worst one but that explains the hard start and rough idle and jolting as a push the throttle I seemed to break the egr vacuum tube when I put the intake manifold back on

 

miesk5

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Yo Y,

YW!

DTC 34 - EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary.

DTC 34 "...in Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test indicates that the EGR valve and/or EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor may not be fully seated in the closed position. The EVP sensor voltage is greater than the closed limit voltage of 0.67 volt. Because of the preload on the installed EVP sensor, it is very difficult to determine whether the EGR valve is seated or the EVP sensor is in contact with the EGR valve stem..."

Source: by rla2005 (Randy)

DTC 33 & 34 "...DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, the vacuum line to the EGR valve is connected to a computer-controlled solenoid. (EVP). Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well. as well as a problem in the ...EVP

Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..." read more

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20120626164618/http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=35

Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

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Ok so I replaced the vacuum lines to the egr and the check engine light is off...but I pulled codes anyways and all I got was 11 so everything is ok except that there is no change in performance...it still takes a while to start and still has a vibration and doesnt drive smooth uphill or under load and still has a rough idle

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Air filter and air intake from inlet atop radiator to throttle body

Fuel quality

(**Edit***

Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..." by Gordon

Battery posts clean

Battery cable and terminals clean and tight including grounds

 
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miesk5

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Yo,

Many of the issues have common issues:

Vacuum leaks.. see if you can get vacuum gauge from parts store under a loan a tool program.

Normal Engine Vacuum at Idle is 15-22 in-Hg

See my vacuum leak test at http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535

Post #20

Ignition wiring.. at night lift hood, start engine & look for arcs along plug wires and coil to distr. Etc.

Or spray some water on same suspects and see if engine stumbles worse than usual.

Hard starting, read

http://www.salemboysauto.com/faqs/faq-25.htm

Ignore the embdded advertisement

 
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Gerrad Reynolds

Gerrad Reynolds

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I did a koer test and got codes 33 (again) 21, 30, 52, 77 I have no idea what 30 is and have no idea what 77 or the meaning of "goose test" is

 

miesk5

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Yo,

21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts; "...Coolant is less than 50 deg F for KOEO, or less than 180 deg F for KOER, or greater than 250 deg F for either. If coolant temp is in proper range, suspect ECT sensor or it's connector/wiring, bad thermostat, low coolant.

Source: by miesk5

30 ignore...

Cylinder Balance Test; NOTE: This test is only available on 95 Bronco w/1995 CA/MAF/SFI PCM (BIO0) & 96 Bronco; & Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) Engines. "...The Cylinder Balance test on the 5.0L SEFI and 5.0L SEFI MA vehicles is designed to aid in the detection of a noncontributing cylinder.

Cylinder Balance DTM—SFI Engines Only

The purpose of the cylinder balance test is to assist the mechanic in finding a weak or non-contributing cylinder. The test is entered by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes after the Engine Running Self-Test DTCs have been output.

Once the test is entered, the IAC duty cycle is fixed and the engine is allowed to stabilize. Engine rpm is measured and stored for later use. Next, the fuel is shut off to cylinder number 4, 6 or 8, depending on the engine. After a brief stabilization period the engine rpm is again measured and stored. The injector is turned on again and the process is repeated for each of the injectors down to one. At this point, the maximum rpm drop that occurred is selected from the table of rpm drops for each cylinder. This maximum rpm drop is multiplied by a calibratable percentage. The resulting number (rpm) is used as the minimum rpm that each cylinder must have dropped to pass this test.

DTC 52 Steering wheel not turned during test or Power Steering Pressure Switch problem

DTC 77 goose test...system failed to recognize brief WOT dynamic resistance test. Need to press gas pedal during KOER; Operator didn't execute WOT when told to during self test.

Engine Running Self-Test

Special Notes:

On vehicles equipped with the Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID code.

On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released.

On vehicles equipped with E4OD transmission, the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) must be cycled after the ID code.

The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse (or a 10 code on the STAR Tester) that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine running identification code. (See Code Output Format in this section.)

When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief wide open throttle.

...

How To Run Engine Running Self-Test

DO

Deactivate Self-Test.

Start and run engine at 2,000 rpm for two minutes. This action warms up the HO2S.

Turn engine off, wait 10 seconds.

Activate Self-Test.

Start engine.

After the ID code, depress and release the brake pedal if appropriate. See Special Note on previous page.

After the ID code, within 1 to 2 seconds, turn the steering wheel at least one-half turn and then release it, if appropriate. See Special Notes above.

If a Dynamic Response Code occurs, perform a brief wide-open throttle (WOT).

Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed.

DON'T

Depress the throttle unless a Dynamic Response code is displayed.

...

How To Run Engine Running Self-Test

, DO

Deactivate Self-Test.

Start and run engine at 2,000 rpm for two minutes. This action warms up the HO2S.

Turn engine off, wait 10 seconds.

Activate Self-Test.

Start engine.

After the ID code, depress and release the brake pedal if appropriate. See Special Note on previous page.

After the ID code, within 1 to 2 seconds, turn the steering wheel at least one-half turn and then release it, if appropriate. See Special Notes above.

If a Dynamic Response Code occurs, perform a brief wide-open throttle (WOT).

Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed.

DON'T

Depress the throttle unless a Dynamic Response code is displayed.

 

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