yo RACER;
Many cut out a floor pan small section in cargo area to access & R&R pump
Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in a 95
Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=628&s=15374
Seabronco also did this;
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12329
Lessons Learned
Source: by digitalbill
1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.
2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation
Miesk5 Note, See, Fittings, Overview & Diagrams, Garter Spring; "...The large scissor tool works best on garter springs; the small scissor works best on quick-disconnects. The only approved lubricant for fuel system O-rings is clean motor oil. DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE on any part of the fuel system. It does NOT dissolve in gas, so it can block the fuel filter &/or injector screens..."
Source: by Steve at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/283464
3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).
I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.
4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve83 site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.
5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...
6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy. Miesk5 note; clean it off, use penetrant sparingly if needed; Use a brass punch or chisel to remove;
Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.
7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.
8: Also, that the edges are sharp. let me clairify.
YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself
----
Patch Panel, 48in. x 16in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00 as of June 2011
Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-34094-rear-bed-patch-panel-48in-x-16in-.html
or get one from a yard queen (F series are same)
Is check engine light on with key in run position?
The computer turns on the fuel pump relay 1. For about 2 seconds when you first turn the key to ON and 2. when it senses rotation in the dizzy from the pickup.
Tech Tip Guide, General; "...Many times, the Ford fuel pump hanger/sender assemblies are frequently found with extensive corrosion on the cover and on the metal tubes. Over time, the terminals can loosen and cause intermittent loss of continuity. Erratic reading of the fuel sender level is one of the other problems that could occur..."
Source: by spectrapremium.com
Wiring Diagrams in 96 Bronco:
http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/WD/Ford/197/WD_Ford_197472.pdf
Fuel pump relay - ask son if it clicks when turning key on; But since he found batty power at inertia switch, I assume relay is good- if suspect, can swap w/horn relay (assuming horn works)
it is in eng compartment;
Location in Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 96 Bronco & F-Series Source: by Ford
http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/WD/Ford/197/WD_Ford_197479.pdf
Inertia Switch to Fuel Pump
Check for batty power (12.0 vdc and above) at the pump connector atop tank PK/Bl (pink/black)
Ground Locations & Diagrams in 92-96; (pump and fuel level sender share connector C441 @ rear cross member)
G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support & G200, Instrument Cluster ground is inside passenger side kick panel
Test the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) on the fuel rail, driver's side rear, using a fuel pressure guage, 37psi cranking, engine off, 40 psi engine running with vaccum line disconnected.
PULL VAC LINE OFF FPR, any aroma of gas or gas in line = repalce FPR
Pressure in a 96 with; Ignition On, Fuel Pump Running = 35.0 - 45.0 PSI; At Idle = 30.0 - 45.0 PSI
